how much sound deadening should I use on my doors?
IrishChamp
Posts: 140
Sorry for all the separate posts, I’m not trying to junk up the board with all my posts I just have lots of questions as I’m pretty inexperienced.
I wanted some input on sound deadening the doors. I purchased one roll of Raamatt and I've used about 2/3's of it, layered the inner side of the outside door as well as the portion touching the inner door cover where the speaker is mounted on the inside of the car, I did not do both sides of the inner portion where the speaker is mounted, there is just too little space to get in there plus the window rolling motor and other stuff is in the way. also, I have a small hole where the lock and door opener wire go into the door.
will this be adequate, I really want my sr6500’s to sound great.
I also made custom MDF rings that hold the woofers and tweeters next to each other and direct them towards the opposite side head reast do the woofers and tweeters need to have separate back airspace?
EDIT: I also put a layer of esolite(sp) foam behind the speakers, not on the whole back of the door.
I wanted some input on sound deadening the doors. I purchased one roll of Raamatt and I've used about 2/3's of it, layered the inner side of the outside door as well as the portion touching the inner door cover where the speaker is mounted on the inside of the car, I did not do both sides of the inner portion where the speaker is mounted, there is just too little space to get in there plus the window rolling motor and other stuff is in the way. also, I have a small hole where the lock and door opener wire go into the door.
will this be adequate, I really want my sr6500’s to sound great.
I also made custom MDF rings that hold the woofers and tweeters next to each other and direct them towards the opposite side head reast do the woofers and tweeters need to have separate back airspace?
EDIT: I also put a layer of esolite(sp) foam behind the speakers, not on the whole back of the door.
HU: Clarion DRZ9255 4 Way Active:
HIGH: Polk SR52500 tweets. MID: SR5250 woofers. LOW: SR6500 woofers. SUB: Two Polk MM1240svc's 1010rms sealed in 1.75 cu.ft. AMPS: Arc Audio FD4150, FD2200 & FD1200.1.
HIGH: Polk SR52500 tweets. MID: SR5250 woofers. LOW: SR6500 woofers. SUB: Two Polk MM1240svc's 1010rms sealed in 1.75 cu.ft. AMPS: Arc Audio FD4150, FD2200 & FD1200.1.
Post edited by IrishChamp on
Comments
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I have a general rule about sound deadening: you can never have too much.
Use as much as you can afford. If I could afford it, I would have 4 layers or Dynamat Extreme covering every surface of the interior of my car.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
I'm doing a layer on the outer skin covered in closed cell foam. Then two layers on the inner skin with a layer of foam. Then I put some scraps of deadener on the panel itself. Is it perfect? I doubt it but it's enough for me for now. But you can never have enough! Well, maybe when it's so thick, your door weighs 100lbs and you can't fit a speaker in there because it's 6" thick... but other than that... hahaNever kick a fresh **** on a hot day.
Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.
Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener. -
LOL! Yeah I suppose if your doors droop down like a reverse Lamborghini style then I reckon thats a wee bit excessive.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
so I should use what I have left I guess. does it matter on what surface I use it? also, more foam? I have two square yards of the stuff its just a PITA to install, the spray adhesive is messy!
how about the hole for the lock and opener wires?HU: Clarion DRZ9255 4 Way Active:
HIGH: Polk SR52500 tweets. MID: SR5250 woofers. LOW: SR6500 woofers. SUB: Two Polk MM1240svc's 1010rms sealed in 1.75 cu.ft. AMPS: Arc Audio FD4150, FD2200 & FD1200.1. -
simple way of doing it that is working great for me is to cut out a square aroudn the speaker..... cut the hole out like a pizza and fold the corners over
and then do another layer the same way, excepter alternate teh cuts and u will ahve 2 layers on each side.2013 Toyota Prius
Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
(2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
Mosconi 6to8 v8 -
well I put some more Rammaat in my doors, I'm done with it for now, there is a nice thick layer around the speaker holes and a comprehensive single layer every where else except for certain parts of the inner layer where the speakers are attached on the inside. I did not put all of it and I didn't put any more foam. I think there is about 20 to 25 sq ft on each door so I think it will be pretty good, we shall see!
thanks all for your help!HU: Clarion DRZ9255 4 Way Active:
HIGH: Polk SR52500 tweets. MID: SR5250 woofers. LOW: SR6500 woofers. SUB: Two Polk MM1240svc's 1010rms sealed in 1.75 cu.ft. AMPS: Arc Audio FD4150, FD2200 & FD1200.1. -
I have a general rule about sound deadening: you can never have too much.
Use as much as you can afford. If I could afford it, I would have 4 layers or Dynamat Extreme covering every surface of the interior of my car.
Hey MacLeod, how does Deadener affect the upper midrange/highs?
I realise it's for eliminating vibration but I have found that any modification you make in a vehicle to one part does have an effect on the other parts.
My mids are nice, but my highs can get kind of bright and I'm wondering can I count on them getting brighter since less sound will be escaping?
What has been your experience? -
Deadening does not affect the mids and highs and it doesnt really affect the lower frequencies that much either. The thing deadening does is kill resonance and "isolate" the music from the car. When you have all the panels in the car resonating you feel it and notice it and it takes away from the music. If you listen to a car that is totally dead, the music is completely isolated from the car. You dont feel anything vibrating and you dont hear anything buzzing or resonating. This creates much better clarity and overall sound quality and gets your car much closer to the holy grail of car audio which is the point at which your system now resembles a home audio system more than it does a car audio system.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
Deadening does not affect the mids and highs and it doesnt really affect the lower frequencies that much either. The thing deadening does is kill resonance and "isolate" the music from the car. When you have all the panels in the car resonating you feel it and notice it and it takes away from the music. If you listen to a car that is totally dead, the music is completely isolated from the car. You dont feel anything vibrating and you dont hear anything buzzing or resonating. This creates much better clarity and overall sound quality and gets your car much closer to the holy grail of car audio which is the point at which your system now resembles a home audio system more than it does a car audio system.
Sounds like I need serious deadening then.
Everyone loves my system, but it just needs something extra to my ears.
I have used the Chesky discs, McIntosh discs, Wilson Audio discs, and Sheffield discs, it sounds very nice but I have a hole in center stage, and tweets a hair bright.
I guess dash pods(extra midwoofer), and deadening will be next, hopefully that will even out my highs, I have lots of sub so I'm good there.
Thanks MacLeod. -
IrishChamp wrote: »Sorry for all the separate posts, Im not trying to junk up the board with all my posts I just have lots of questions as Im pretty inexperienced.
I wanted some input on sound deadening the doors. I purchased one roll of Raamatt and I've used about 2/3's of it, layered the inner side of the outside door as well as the portion touching the inner door cover where the speaker is mounted on the inside of the car, I did not do both sides of the inner portion where the speaker is mounted, there is just too little space to get in there plus the window rolling motor and other stuff is in the way. also, I have a small hole where the lock and door opener wire go into the door.
will this be adequate, I really want my sr6500s to sound great.
I also made custom MDF rings that hold the woofers and tweeters next to each other and direct them towards the opposite side head reast do the woofers and tweeters need to have separate back airspace?
EDIT: I also put a layer of esolite(sp) foam behind the speakers, not on the whole back of the door.
i wish i had the time to tell u what i did and what i learned.
i've done the floors with Raamat and ensolite. I've done the rest of the car with secondskin extreme and ensolite. the roof of the car was done in SS and 1/4" closed cell foam from an industrial company (this **** is really good)
i also structurally braced the car with aluminum and then sealed all holes with sheet metal before laying the sounddeadening and proofing.
i can call u if u like. email me at tk1 at hotmail.com
