48 Drivers Mortite, and Peel and stick

ben62670

Well I have way to many friggen drivers. I picked up some Peel and stick asphalt based 6" wide sealer. This is a good cheap alternative to Dynamat. I was doing some test with the mortite, and the peel and stick. The one thing that surprised me is that with just the mortite apply to the driver it virtually stopped all ringing. I was debating whether or not to use foam gasket material, but I feel the mortite is worth the hassle. It is not fun to work with, but the way it will help isolate the drivers from the cabs it is well worth it.
I have to get back to work:( This one will take some time.
Ben

NJPOLKER

Hey Ben
Have I told you lately you are sick
Drew

ben62670

My therapist told me to get a hobby. That **** costs me a small fortune, and a lot of time:mad:

McLoki

Ok, what is Mortite and where did you put it and why? Pics man - I need pics.....

ben62670

McLoki wrote: »

Ok, what is Mortite and where did you put it and why? Pics man - I need pics.....

Yes sir I will take a pic for you. DK did the same thing. this is where I got the Idea from. I was skeptical about this one, but I am not now;)

skrol

ben62670 wrote: »

My therapist told me to get a hobby. That **** costs me a small fortune, and a lot of time:mad:

Would have been money that you could have used to buy more drivers.

Face

Nice coffins.

ben62670

I left the original gasket intact if they were in good shape. I did this as a precautionary measurement against any ringing if the drivers were not fully seated all the way around. I do recommend tightening them down like you would a head gasket. You can bend the basket of the MW's if you torque a screw down without setting the opposing screw. Also take you time and come back in a few days to tighten them up. Don't try to seat them all the way the first shot. You will distort the basket. It is 66 degrees in my house at the time of install.
Ben

ben62670

Sal I don't want to hear that. I hate the cold, but can't afford top crank the heat:( I am cranking tunes though:)

Systems

ben62670 wrote: »

Well I have way to many friggen drivers. I picked up some Peel and stick asphalt based 6" wide sealer. This is a good cheap alternative to Dynamat.

You could try the mortite for dampening the basket as well as using it for the gasket.I have tried it on stamped baskets to good effect.Though its not as neat looking as the Dynamat.

ben62670

I 100% agree. The mortite is an excellent dampening material. I had reservations about using it, but the stuff is one of the best cheap tweaks;) Even the bead around the ring worked excellent.
Ben

ben62670

Lasareath wrote: »

I hear ya man, but your in GA, How cold can it be?

20 degree hear near HotLanta:eek:

Systems

Another tweak though messy is to run several beads of hot glue or use epoxy around the base of the magnet where it meets up with the chassis.It helps to reduce the tendancy of the frame to flex during high excursions.Thats why cast frames are superior to stamped.

inspiredsports

OK, I'll play the role of the newbie (because I am one) and ask the question. What brand are those monsters, or are they home brewed? What does it take, like 6 or 8 amplifiers to drive them. That should be enough to warm the place up a few degrees!

ben62670

Here you go.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53273

schwarcw

Ben, is that Dynamat on the spokes of the basket? What the logic for the size (width) It looks wide??

ben62670

It's like Dynamat, but much cheaper. I cut the material fairly wide to cover most of the spokes, but to be Honest the Mortite zapped the ring out of the speakers just fine. I installed one of my speakers with no sound deadener, and just Mortite. Then I did another with just the sound deadener, and the Mortite flat out beat it hands down. For the testing I hit the spokes with a screwdriver from inside the cab.

inspiredsports

Ben,

I am not worthy . . . . but I am amazed, impressed and jealous!

I stacked my 2B's on top of my new SRS 2's for approx 215 lbs at 90" X 20" x 12" and might be on to something! I better hurry before my wife gets the mental hospital commitment forms completed.

Thanks for the comparison info indicating Mortite is a great solution all by itself. This will help me save some time in my rebuild efforts, although I love this hobby and spending the time is OK too.

ben62670

Stacking speakers never works out too good. My speakers worked well in a large room, but I have had to basically neuter them using the top 8 woofers like passive radiators. I will however run them with an active XO, and a separate amp for HT use(think 16 6.5" sub woofers;)).

inspiredsports

I was being a little sarcastic. The intent was that the 2B's be put up for sale to fund the SRS 2 improvements, but my son is now lobbying hard for me to "sell" them to him. Probably means he will expect the speakers as payment for chores he should do anyway.

My wife is treatening to remodel the kitchen this spring if I don't sell some of my stuff. That doesn't seem like an equal trade last time I checked kitchen cabinet and countertop prices!

On a side note, I understand you are the perfect craftsman to help rework crossover networks and clip poly switches out of circuits and am interested. Can you PM or email me sometime so I can learn how to work that out?

ben62670

Which SRS2's do you have. The Pin/Blade or the Blade/Blade?
Ben

inspiredsports

My SRS 2's are blade / blade with a separate connection jack lower on the cabinet back below the speaker posts. They have the SE150 bass radiator, all MW6509 drivers and SL2000 tweeters.

I had some of the mids out today and they are stamped December 05, 1986 as their quality control inspection date, and January 03, 1987 as the speaker build date.

I think this was one of the last sets before the pin / blade bi amp capable models came out.

ben62670

Some of the early B/B speakers were actually wired like P/B speakers. We'll talk.
Ben