Mortite Speaker Seals For SDA's

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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    Forgot to mention, some mortite does show up around the tweeter cutout area. Gotta try to clean that up.
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    OK, got the second speaker done. Had to redo it as well as having to redo the first speaker. I forgot to read the disclaimer in this article that states "for the mindset of more is better", I had to remove the excess mortite I used around the drivers and speakers, so it took longer than expected, but its done. My leftover mortite looks like its been shredded.

    If you find yourself in this situation, use a knife to remove the excess!!! It will make the removal ALOT easier!!!

    But I have to say, so far, in a small sample size - the tremendous bass that comes from these speakers feels deeper. Still have to audition further, but its so far well worth it for a few dollars and two to 3 hours time if you do it right. Next stop - Dynamat Extreme!
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    I dont know if this is my imagination - but another impression I am getting is that after applying the mortite, the speakers seem louder by 5 to 10dBs. Does anyone else have this experience after applying mortite to the 1.2TLs?

    I should also mention that when I was pulling out the drivers to apply the mortite, that it took some effort to pull them out. So I suspect that the seals held well on the drivers. Tweeters were pretty easy to remove. The PR took a little effort, but not as much as the drivers.
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    PolkMaster1 wrote: »
    I dont know if this is my imagination - but another impression I am getting is that after applying the mortite, the speakers seem louder by 5 to 10dBs. Does anyone else have this experience after applying mortite to the 1.2TLs?

    I should also mention that when I was pulling out the drivers to apply the mortite, that it took some effort to pull them out. So I suspect that the seals held well on the drivers. Tweeters were pretty easy to remove. The PR took a little effort, but not as much as the drivers.

    Wait till you try to pull them out now with the Mortite!!! We told you to wait until you're done with the Dynamat.;)
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Wait till you try to pull them out now with the Mortite!!! We told you to wait until you're done with the Dynamat.;)

    Oh dear... Well, that will be a next weekend project.
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    PolkMaster1 wrote: »
    Oh dear... Well, that will be a next weekend project.

    I'll send you my crowbar!
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    I'll send you my crowbar!

    I've got a crowbar that only my GF can use. :eek::eek::eek:
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    PolkMaster1 wrote: »
    I've got a crowbar that only my GF can use. :eek::eek::eek:

    Why does she need to crank it up?:D:p
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Why does she need to crank it up?:D:p

    Seems that you guys can hear my speakers getting cranked from across the country.
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,244
    edited January 2010
    PolkMaster1 wrote: »
    Seems that you guys can hear my speakers getting cranked from across the country.

    Wish I could hear it. Better then hearing my wife yelling at me, man is she mad.
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited January 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Wish I could hear it. Better then hearing my wife yelling at me, man is she mad.

    Turn up those 1.2 TLs. Thats the reason why you got them in the first place. Problem solved. :eek:
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

    The other 2% will work for WalMart.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2010
    FYI, my local K-Mart/Sears has Mortite on clearance for $3.50 a roll.

    I bought 4. :)
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2010
    For any Northwest folks, Fred Meyer seems to no longer carry Mortite or similar products; I've checked with multiple stores. However, Ace Hardware does carry their own rope caulking, and I would assume it's the same material. It's $2.50 for the 30' roll in white or brown, or they also have a BIG roll. I'll be picking some up this week or next and giving it go on my Klipschs.
    Jake
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited April 2010
    If they have the brown that would be cool. I have the white from Lowe's, but there are times/ places it would be nice to have brown too.
    Thanks for the info.
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  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited April 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    For any Northwest folks, Fred Meyer seems to no longer carry Mortite or similar products; I've checked with multiple stores. However, Ace Hardware does carry their own rope caulking, and I would assume it's the same material. It's $2.50 for the 30' roll in white or brown, or they also have a BIG roll. I'll be picking some up this week or next and giving it go on my Klipschs.


    I recently "Mortited" my 7A's and 2A's using Ace Hardware's brand of rope caulk, and the results have been breathtaking.

    I got the 30' roll, which was about $2.50 or so, and it was enough to do both the 7A's and 2A's, with plenty left over.

    I can't imagine there being any difference with using the actual Mortite brand. Rope caulk is rope caulk. It's all the same stuff.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    comfortablycurt wrote: »
    I recently "Mortited" my 7A's and 2A's using Ace Hardware's brand of rope caulk, and the results have been breathtaking.

    I got the 30' roll, which was about $2.50 or so, and it was enough to do both the 7A's and 2A's, with plenty left over.

    I can't imagine there being any difference with using the actual Mortite brand. Rope caulk is rope caulk. It's all the same stuff.

    Are you sure Curt? I know the Mortite doesn't bond. Have you looked into the possible bonding of the ACE rope caulk?
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Are you sure Curt? I know the Mortite doesn't bond. Have you looked into the possible bonding of the ACE rope caulk?

    I read some review and it being the same as Mortite; properties and all. We'll let you know if our drivers end up glued to the cabinets. :D
    Jake
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    I read some review and it being the same as Mortite; properties and all. We'll let you know if our drivers end up glued to the cabinets. :D

    Thanks you Sir!:)
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Update: I just went to Home Depot and they have original Mortite in the 90' roll for $5. I couldn't help myself at that price, so I picked up a box. It will be more than I need to seal my Fortes, but a little extra never hurt anyone.

    f6e4d258-6adb-4328-bed2-a5fb77453ebd_300.jpg
    Jake
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited May 2010
    It will make a very nice improvement. I did my 5B's just to get my feet wet before doing my 1C's. I haven't tackled the 1C's yet but very soon. I was very surprised the difference it made on the 5B's in my office rig.

    see here:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51420&page=6
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    It made a nice improvement on my 5s and CRS+, so I expect it to make even more of an improvement on my Fortes as they leak a little with their current gaskets. Plus, it should help deaden those horns a little until I can truly deaden them.
    Jake
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  • Bobsama
    Bobsama Posts: 526
    edited May 2010
    What's the diameter of that mortite?
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Not sure, but it's just the standard rope.
    Jake
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    Not sure, but it's just the standard rope.

    Looks to be the same size I used. Just be sure to apply even pressure on the drivers to flatten it out a bit before **** and then check your screws a few times within the week. As the caulk settles you'll need to tighten the screws a bit.

    You probably know all that :) If you've used it before


    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    The Mortite can use a little massaging to get the driver flush on the cabinet, but it's not too tricky. The toughest part for me was the RDO tweeters as they have a narrow lip.
    Jake
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited June 2010
    FYI, if you're going to use Mortite may seep into bare MDF. This shouldn't be an issue for Polk's, but possibly other speakers.

    mortite.jpg
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,244
    edited June 2010
    That is one reason I thought about using polyurethane just to seal the wood from the mortite.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited June 2010
    I'm glad these cabinets are ported. I removed the port and pushed from behind on and off for a few hours until the woofer finally came out.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited June 2010
    So I guess it would be advisable to dyna-mat before the Mortite?

    Gordon
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  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    edited June 2010
    I've got both Dynamat and Mortite coming from Amazon.com. I'll be removing crossovers, sending to Ben for the TL upgrade, and when I put them back together I'll have everything done all at once. Hopefully won't have to take them apart anytime soon.
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