2000i and boominess
gmg
Posts: 22
Hi all, haven't posted in awhile. Been playing with some new toys and need your help. I have the 2000i's for mains, 1000 for center, 55i for surrounds and a 650 sub. A B&k Ref 30 & B&k 7250 amp. The problem I'm having with mains is the boominess. Tried bi wire, positioning speakers, took sub out, put it in. Moved furniture, blankets, pillows, you name it, I think I tried it. Ran the notch filter on the 30 up and down a hundred times. Could the problem be in the towers themselves? I'm starting to think that the amps in the towers are not tight enough. Could one disable the internal amps and drive the top/bottom with my B&K? I know this would destroy my warrenty but the frustration factor is going up. When using the system for HT it sounds ok, when listening to music, I'm disappointed in the sound I'm getting. Any ideas or suggestions from you all. Thanks Gordo
Post edited by gmg on
Comments
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i had the same problem with my rt2000i no matter how much you fooled with the adjustment the bass was real boomy. so don't fell bad i had the same problem. i sold them to my brother in law and bought a pair of sda's
scott:cool: -
When I auditoned the 2000s, and 1000s a few years ago, I found them both to be too boomy for my tastes. I was wondering at the time whether it was just the listening room they were in or not. After fooling around with them for a while, I ended up betting the speakers would lean too much toward just being too boomy period, except perhaps under certain conditions ie: in just the right room. Maybe I wasn't far off the mark in this regard...
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weird...I had 1000i's..and now have 2000i's and never seemed boomy to me. My ct150 can get boomy sometimes... but since i went to the 2000, I'm getting a lot tighter bass... especialy mid bass
just to show ya...no speaker sound the same in any to spaces:cool: -
I've got to admit that the speaks sounded less boomy when I was driving them with an Onkyo 787. With the new amp, it presents a whole lot more boom. I also see that nobody wants to touch my question about disabling the internal amp. It is just a thought that crossed my mind. I'd really like to get this under control if possible without buying new speaks. Thanks, Gordo
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Hullo...
Hm. Look, I know "audiophiles" go into apoplectic fits anytime anyone suggests something like this, but a decent-quality graphic equalizer may allow you to de-emphasize the frequencies that are causing the "boominess" you can hear.
Pick one out of a used-audio store or the local classifieds, or off of ebay, and see what you can do.
Pretty much any recognizable brand should do, at least for testing. For permanent use, I'm not quite sure, anything made in the seventies or early eighties by any of the quality brands (Sansui, Marantz, Kenwood, Pioneer, whatever...)
Basically, you're not going to change the speakers, so you need to change the signal getting to the speakers. Changing equipment (except for changing to the _far_ worse) won't affect the signal very much. Changing wires (unless you change everything to a much-too-small-wire gauge, or remove shielding from your interconnects) won't change the signal in any measurable or meaningful way. So what's left is changing the signal.
Hey, it could be worth a try...
joel -
I too have the RT2000i's and I thought they were boomy when I first fired them up but after some very careful adjustments and different wire jobs they sound great !!! I would reccomend just turning down the level on the built in subs for the RT's and let your other sub(s) do the real work. Set the level just enough to fill in the body of the low end and let the "real" sub do it's thing. I think the subs in these monsters were an added bonus but not to stand alone as subs themselves. I think they wanted just to have it there if needed.. to build your bottom end, not maintain the entire load. If you do back off on the RT sub volume you will be able to make all of your minor adjusts to the "body" of your sound through your amps sub or "LFE" level to your main sub and just let the RT subs do a little extra for you. You will definatley need some tweeking for the crossover from HT to music...and better to do that with your reciever's remote than on the back of your POLK's !!! PS I have mine hooked up as reccomended...Option#1 in your manual...leave the gold plated connecting bars ON and hook-up to the high input ( the top posts) I think this works best. Remember let the sub work as a sub and the built-in's help you fill the gap not create one !!! I hope this will help you. GOOD LUCK...let me know how you make out.
