momo subwoofer
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i just made a purhase consisting of: 12 in mm12 momo sbu w/ encloser and a rockford fosgate power 500 bd and also a 20 volt monster cap, do yu have any suggestions on how i should wier it or set it upto get the best base for constant play thnks
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Post edited by Unknown User on
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for wireing.... should go this way: battery-wire - fuse within 18"- wire- then cap as close to amp as possible then of course wire it to the amp. I'd use 4g wire myself...leaves room for additions later.
On the amp..make sure the low pass filter is on-
you can experiment on position of the enclosure for optimal bass response..normaly firing toward tail in the trunk or hatch...
just some quick ideas..
:cool: -
the 12" momo is a 500 w sub ... the fosgate 501bd will do at most 600 watts into a 2 ohm load -- 300 into a 4 ohm load.
the momo 12 is a 4 ohm sub -- so you're only giving it 300 watts.
circuit city / best buy guy sold you the wrong amp -- for the same price [OR CHEAPER!] you paid for that 500bd (approximately 499 retail?) you could have gotten a class AB amp that is 500 watts bridged into 4 ohms.... example --
mtx 8302 (450 x 1 bridged into 4 ohms - price = 349 bucks)
rockford fosgate punch 501S (500 x 1 into 4 ohms = 349 bucks)
rockford fosgate 601S (600 x 1 into 4 ohms = 449 bucks)
rockford fosgate power 451S (450 x 1 into 4 ohms = 299 bucks)
rockford fosgate power 551S (550 x 1 into 4 ohms = 399 bucks)
just figured i'd let ya know.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
yup
youll be under powering it by about 75w
i didnt even catch that itd only be getting 300w
good job dodge
lol
375 being minimal
600 max
i have 600watts each going to my 2 mm120s
so yeah you need more power
-Cody -
Hey Cody. You say you have 600w going to your MM120's right? How does that sound? I am planning on running 600 to my two MM10's (they just showed up on my god thiese things are beautiful). However, The amp that i am running is an Audiobahn class d w 1200w x1 @ 2 ohms. So I am going to wire it in parallel so each sub gets 600w @ 4 ohms. What would the continous power to each sub be (best rough estimate). The way i understand it is amp are always rated at peak performance and i was just wondering what i can expect from it for continous power.Patience... patience...
Screw patience... Crank the volume and floor it you panzie. -
it sounds great but ive been having problems with the mm120s popping
but its just a defect im pretty sure
i emailed kim a long time ago but he hasnt written me back yet
anyways
the 600w going to mine are continuous
the amp is rfbd1000 which pushes out 1200 continuous
its rated at 1000, but rf tests out their amps and it came out to be like 1215 watts
what you need to do is find that amp on the internet or where it gives you the specs and look to see if it says 1200 x1 watts rms
or 1200x 1 watts peak
the difference is rms is continuous
peak is it might hit 1200 watts for half a second when the bass hits
if its rms youre in great shape
but one thing
youll be running 600 watts to a 400 watt sub
i think the 10s are 400 watts anyway
if theyre 500watts you dont have to listen to this
but if they are 400 youll probably need to turn the gain down on the amp so you wont blow them out
and you need to play it at lower listening levels for the first 40 or so hours to "break them in"
after that CRANK IT UP!!
also, if that amp is not continuous
and its 1200 watts peak
that means itll be around 600x1
which will be 300 watts going to each subwoofer
and to tell you the truth theyll be happier with 400 or 450 watts
if i had to the 10s i would run them on 400-450 watts of power
those subs can handle it
two good rules to go by to see how much power to feed your subs
take the rms of the speaker
400watts
multiply 400 x 0.75
that gives you 300 watts
(400 x 0.75= 300)
300 watts would be your minimum
now take your 400 watts
multipy 400 x 1.2
that gives you 480 watts
you probably shouldnt run your subs with more power than that
you hear a lot about the 75% rule and thats it
ive heard of one installer use the 120% rule and ive never heard anyone else use it, but i do, and i think its a good rule to go by
hope i was of help
-Cody -
the 1200x 1 at 4 ohms is fine for two mm 10's.. just try to keep the gain down just little bit -- i beat on a momo 12 in the prefabbed see through box a couple months ago at circuit city-- after about 650 watts it started to have issues... i'd say 550 - 6 is perfect on the 12... but the 10's only a 400 rated sub (12 = 500) ... so you might actually only be able to feed it 450 - 500... not sure though... chris is right, the subs can take it, they're built pretty damn well.
i say throw em both on there, and if they pop a bit, pull the gain back just a hair, you'll be good.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Cody..not Chris
-Cody -
*holds up sign* "Meep Meep"
my bad , i knew u're name... just drew a brain ****...The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
i am the person who first asked the question, i did not go with the 500bd,due to my own reseach.... i ended up with a phoenix gold 600 ti, 600 watts at 4 ohms, i did not pay 499, for anything, i paid 210 for the sup 400 for the amp, and 280 for the head unit wich is a pioneer 9300, do you think i gat a good deal?, i also just picked up the momo mids and tweets for 200!Testing
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well my rf 500.2 puts out 810 watts and i got it for $350 from onlinecarstereo.com
new
280 for the headunit isnt bad
and 200 for the speakers is a steal mine was like 325 new...
-Cody -
IF MY AMP IS 2 CH, AND I AM ONLY RUNNING 1 SUB ,HOW DO BRIDGE, OR IS ALL READY?, I WANT TO MAKE SURE A GET 600 WATTS OUT OF MY 600tiTesting
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usually its like left positive and right negative --- other two unhooked.. or right positive, left neg -- depends on amp manufacturer... ut one of those will do it.
the PG amp is a lot bettter than the RF class D for a one sub application -- glad to hear u did ure homeworkThe Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge