Replacing a power switch-Help please
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strider
Posts: 2,568
A while back I built a Hagerman Bugle phono pre amp kit. It's a PCB based kit powered by a 9v battery for each channel. As designed, it has the RCA jacks, power switch, and batteries mounted to the board itself. Since it wasn't very aesthetically pleasing nor easy to use as a board sitting on my rack, I built an enclosure for it. In the process of doing so I butchered the power switch removing it from the board, so I bypassed the switch with some wire; effectively the pre's powered up all the time. To turn it off, I remove one of the leads from each battery.
That's gotten old, so now I want to put a switch back in the circuit. I'm also moving it to a sheet metal enclosure, rather then the wood one I built. The one spec'ed in the kit won't really work with the enclosure I'm planning on using. Herein lies my question: what switch should I use? Going through the Allied Electronics catalog my mind has turned to mush with all the options. I'd like a small rocker switch mounted to the front or side panel. I was thinking that this switch should work, but I'm really not sure. Here are the specs of the switch spec'ed in the kit. It's at the bottom of page 6 of the PDF, model EG2201A.
Any help's appreciated, thanks!
Edit: looking some more at that switch, it doesn't have a bezel on it, and I'd need to screw it to the enclosure. I'll keep on looking, I'm not asking for anyone to do my legwork, just confirm my thought process.
That's gotten old, so now I want to put a switch back in the circuit. I'm also moving it to a sheet metal enclosure, rather then the wood one I built. The one spec'ed in the kit won't really work with the enclosure I'm planning on using. Herein lies my question: what switch should I use? Going through the Allied Electronics catalog my mind has turned to mush with all the options. I'd like a small rocker switch mounted to the front or side panel. I was thinking that this switch should work, but I'm really not sure. Here are the specs of the switch spec'ed in the kit. It's at the bottom of page 6 of the PDF, model EG2201A.
Any help's appreciated, thanks!
Edit: looking some more at that switch, it doesn't have a bezel on it, and I'd need to screw it to the enclosure. I'll keep on looking, I'm not asking for anyone to do my legwork, just confirm my thought process.
Wristwatch--->Crisco
Post edited by strider on
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A simple DPDT toggle would also work but it ofcoarse mounts to the chassis and not on the pcb.
I can't see the pic of the switch you are thinking of using.Testing
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I was hoping I could mount it to the side of the enclosure and solder wires between the terminals of the switch and the corresponding holes in the circuit board.
Would this switch suffice? I'd like to use a rocker switch rather then a toggle if possible, I like the way it looks better.Wristwatch--->Crisco -
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How do you wire the switch with 6 leads of the back?I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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The switch will be mounted in the side of the aluminum enclosure. I'll solder one end of the wire to the lug on the rear of the switch, then the other end to the corresponding hole in the PCB.
This is a complex graphical representation of the holes for the switch on the PCB:
1 2 3
: : :
4 5 6
So I'm just playing connect the dots with the lugs on the rear of the switch.Wristwatch--->Crisco -
Wristwatch--->Crisco
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Ben or anyone,
I am not so smart.
I have an amp with 2 wires coming from the iec plug and 2 wires going to the pcb. I could not figure out how to wire it. It was the 4 wires and 6 lug dilemma that was throwing me off.
Any thoughts?
Never mind I just dug out the switch and it has 3 lugs and I had 4 wires. Do you just use the switch to control the hot feed? and have the neutral go straight to the board?
ScottI like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D -
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