I gotta be losing it!

NJPOLKER
NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
edited October 2008 in Vintage Speakers
Today I removed the passive radiator from my SDA2a's to see the part number, SW121, easy enough. I'll get into the reason I was looking at the part number another day.
Thats when I noticed I never re-built the low pass x-over. I honestly looked in the cabinet and said to myself, what the f is that, thats when it dawned on me I never did them.
After inspecting that x-over it looks like the two 130uF's are run in parallel
and one 20uF needed. I looked at the schematic and being a novice could not figure out what the hell it is I need. Please help me out alittle.
Thanks Drew
Post edited by NJPOLKER on
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Comments

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2008
    Correct, the low pass has two 130uf caps in parallel and a 20uf cap.
    Jake
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited October 2008
    Thanks Zingo
    Any suggestion on the capacitors I should use?
    I guess Solens are a good choice since I used them on the high pass x-over and they make some big cans about $45.00 each.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2008
    I wouldn't use Solen's on the highs ever again. The Dayton's are the closest to Sonicaps. Sonicaps are the closest to an active XO I have used yet. I have tried Solen's, Jantzen's, Dayton's, and Sonicaps. Don't be afraid of mixing brands for highs, and lows.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2008
    Like Ben, I would suggest Dayton or Jantzen for good quality/low price, and Parts Express is a great place to get them.
    Jake
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited October 2008
    Thanks guys for your advice.

    Ben
    I am not sure what you mean by active crossover or close to active crossover. I have heard "active crossover" but have no idea what it is or means. Just trying to learn here.
    Thanks Drew
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2008
    An active crossover sends the appropriate signal to the correct driver. For a 2 way you would have one amp sending say 2000hz, and less to the mid woofer, and another amp with just the 2000hz plus sent to the tweeter. With this setup there are no caps, inductors, or resistors in the speakers. This is a super clean pure signal. The downside is you need an amp for each driver. Also some drivers still need a little help even with an active XO, but with careful driver selection you can attain great results with an active XO. My SDA's have no caps, resistors, or inductors except for the one inductor required for the SDA effect;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited October 2008
    Thanks Ben
    I gotta think about this alittle bit and now is not the time, too many Budweisers.
    Drew
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2008
    I would just do the caps, and resistors, and be done with it;) Dayton's are great on the budget.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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