FINALLY! A fix for dynamic angular momentum in CD format.
lanion
Posts: 843
My Iron Man training/charity blog.
HT:
32" Sharp LCD. H/K dpr 1001 to Outlaw Audio 7900 to Polk LSi + Paradigm Studio center. Hsu DualDrive ULS-15. PS3/Wii. Outlaw 7900.
HT:
32" Sharp LCD. H/K dpr 1001 to Outlaw Audio 7900 to Polk LSi + Paradigm Studio center. Hsu DualDrive ULS-15. PS3/Wii. Outlaw 7900.
Post edited by lanion on
Comments
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You should see the two CD treatments in Affordable audio this month.:rolleyes:
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Whew, now I can sleep at night! All I have to do is explain it to my wife, you see honey CDs look round but the're not really round and they sound better if the're rounder...AVR: Elite VSX-21TXH
Amplifier: B&K 7250 Series ii
Misc: Velodyne SMS-1
Mains: RTi-10
Center: CSi-5
Rear: Boston DSi460
Sub: SVS PC-Ultra
TV: Panasonic TC-P58V10
DVD: Panasonic DMP-BD60K -
I would think you would need a CD planer as well to insure that they have uniform thickness.
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This is big.
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Can I use it on records?
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Kinda reminds me of that goofy record flattener you guys are sharing!!
:D Didn't that thing cost over a grand???? :eek: "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up. -
pearsall001 wrote: »Kinda reminds me of that goofy record flattener you guys are sharing!!
:D Didn't that thing cost over a grand???? :eek:
Kinda reminds me of a Three Stooges moment where Moe sticks Curley's head in a grinder. -
I think I've heard of this before but it was described more as shaving off the plastic rim of the CD with no information which diffracts light from the laser and thu creates jitter.
The only crazy tweak that I will say has some real word improvement along these lines is burning your CDs to Memorex Black RWs or something equivalent. -
SolidSqual wrote: »I think I've heard of this before but it was described more as shaving off the plastic rim of the CD with no information which diffracts light from the laser and thu creates jitter.
The only crazy tweak that I will say has some real word improvement along these lines is burning your CDs to Memorex Black RWs or something equivalent.
The black Memorex CD's are really nice. They don't seem to make a difference on every recording, but when they do, it's pretty noticeable. I burn mine from iTunes and ALE format. I bet those guys that use FLAC or EAC get that last little sliver out of those black CDR's.
WesLink: http://polkarmy.com/forums
Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d -
SolidSqual wrote: »I think I've heard of this before but it was described more as shaving off the plastic rim of the CD with no information which diffracts light from the laser and thu creates jitter.
The only crazy tweak that I will say has some real word improvement along these lines is burning your CDs to Memorex Black RWs or something equivalent.
Okay, I'll bite. Why's that? Because they're black? -
Okay, I'll bite. Why's that? Because they're black?
I think the basic premise is that CD's are stamped, much like albums and over time those edges on the stamps lose their sharpness so the distinction between the + and - on the disc is less.
By burning the CD to a CDR or RW the burner makes those edges more distinct. (assuming you are burning from a lossless source)
On top of that, there are several different dyes that react with the burning laser. the black Memorex CD's use that dye, among others.
I think Darque Knight did a huge thread about this topic. I was skeptical until I tried it and I'm certainly not a Kool-Aid drinker.
WesLink: http://polkarmy.com/forums
Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d -
Okay, I'll bite. Why's that? Because they're black?
I'm trying to find the article that suggested this tweak right now in my stack of TAS. From what I remember (minus the technical jargon), regular CDs are pressed. CD-Rs are carved with a laser. CD-R results in less light diffraction which lowers jitter. I realize all this sounds like magic but it really does have a listenable effect if you have the system to exploit it. -
Found IT! . . . well the DarqueKnight thread, not the TAS article.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50855&highlight=burn -
SolidSqual wrote: »Found IT! . . . well the DarqueKnight thread, not the TAS article.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50855&highlight=burn
That's the one.
WesLink: http://polkarmy.com/forums
Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d -
I think the basic premise is that CD's are stamped, much like albums and over time those edges on the stamps lose their sharpness so the distinction between the + and - on the disc is less.
By burning the CD to a CDR or RW the burner makes those edges more distinct. (assuming you are burning from a lossless source)
On top of that, there are several different dyes that react with the burning laser. the black Memorex CD's use that dye, among others.
I think Darque Knight did a huge thread about this topic. I was skeptical until I tried it and I'm certainly not a Kool-Aid drinker.
Wes
Okay, I like the premise. There's been huge squabbles over true lossless replication from pressed to laser-etched- obviously.
So, keeping in mind that the original source you're copying from is, what? The pressed CD? You're gonna get a better copy than the original?
Although I used to have a Sony walkman that I dropped on a slab average once a day for years. After a few years, it would play a certain gray generic Walmart CDR copy of originals that it would refuse to read. So, it makes sense. And of course, Walmart quit stocking those.
veddy interethtink. I need to read that thread. -
SolidSqual wrote: »Found IT! . . . well the DarqueKnight thread, not the TAS article.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50855&highlight=burn
Thanks! -
The black Memorex CD's are really nice. They don't seem to make a difference on every recording, but when they do, it's pretty noticeable. I burn mine from iTunes and ALE format. I bet those guys that use FLAC or EAC get that last little sliver out of those black CDR's.
Wes
do you use a green sharpie on the outside of the disc to improve sonics as well?KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780 -
do you use a green sharpie on the outside of the disc to improve sonics as well?
Of course I do!!! :rolleyes: (Yes, the sarcasm is being laid on thick and heavy.)
WesLink: http://polkarmy.com/forums
Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d -
Okay, I'll bite. Why's that? Because they're black?
Once you go black, you never go back...
TNRabbit
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