RTi6 Crossover mod

Polksaladanni

Did 1 to show the difference in size of the caps.

I can't believe I actually figured out how to post a pic. 8^0

Thank You,
And enjoy your dinner.

Face

Are you also replacing the resistors while you're in there?

Let us know how they sound.

MADGSF

Also please give us a list of what you replaced and it's value. This is something I want to do on my RTi-10s.

Kex

I love it! I can't wait to see what you do with the RT55, but first, let us know what it does to the sound!

Polksaladanni

Lemme get the wife to take pics of some of the steps I couldn't do with out 4 hands and I will post all the pics and the minimum amout of tools necessary. It's my dad and sisters' B Day today so I won't get to it till Tuesday night.

Plus a parts list. Costs about $ 12.00 per speaker...There are several options on caps that will fit within the boundaries of the out side of the board. It's essential to getting the XO back in the box.

No, I am not replacing the R's. They are brand new Bennic's (the whole board is Bennic parts) It's a non-inductive wire wound resistor good to about 200w. Not gonna go there it's a sore subject here. Besides, I doubt Mr. Polk would risk his reputation and get egg on his face putting in a sonically inferior resistor on the board.


Paul

Polksaladanni

I'll tell you how thet will sound before I put them back in:

Considering the fact that I hooked them up once for an audition of several speakers, and they are basically new, they will sound a little bit clearer with the midrange since the POS electrolytics are still good and haven't been over driven with a cheap amp or a 200w best like an Adcom. The high end will definately sound better losing the 7.5uf electrolytic and using a film&foil for the .47uf trim cap. F&F is what the Class A tube amplifier guys use or the Sprage "orange drops"

Here are the values for the RTi6

The problem with the electrolytics, if you look at the pic you will see the ac voltage rating on the 12uf cap. It's only rated at 50v that works out to be about a max of 100w continuous power (RMS) (generic formula: 1.8x the voltage rating=watts (On caps only) (resistors are a whole nother animal) Caps are IEC/ISO rated at 150% of the value. That's way too close for my comfort to the the max rating of the speaker according to the manual and it they won't last in the long run. The replacements are min 250v...

Any audiophile will tell you they have no place being in the signal path of the HP section of a speaker nowadays. Any brand of metalized poly is going to be better.

Yeah, Kex
I can't wait either on the 55's. I put the dvom across the LP resistor and the 16uf cap and couldn't get a stable reading. That's bad news. The high pass section right next to it stayed a constant value of the resistor reading. That's probably why I thought I was hearing "wandering" or not hearing things right and was kinda disapointed with them. I'll post pics of the whole process with what it showed there and across the Resistor and Cap on the high side, plus of course the cap replacements. It will be a breeze compared to this mega, PIA, hot glued board. Some assembler was Gettin Crazy With The Cheese Wiz. Waiting on 2 outta 8 caps.

dorokusai

Hey, you can solder....awesome!

They look great.

Polksaladanni

Thanks. HeHe, Been doing a little of that over the years.

Did you ever find the RT55 schematic or should I do like you said and call CS.
I know all the cap and R values just don't have the chokes.

Paul

dorokusai

Yea, get in touch with Ken and the Gang.

Polksaladanni

Caps:
12uf Jantzen Cross Cap
7.5uf Dayton MP
.47 Dayton Film and Foil
Resistors: 5W OE
2.5ohm
5.7ohm

All are exact matches. You can do All Dayton or Solen I believe. I'm sure there are other options from PE, sonicap or NTE.

It's your choice to "upgrade" But you better get an exact match or you will change the XO slopes.

RT10 and 12 guys, your values are not going to be an exact match. They are 3way speakers. Pull your terminal cups and see what they are for yourself.

Pookie shots of the Board. Use the .47uf as a truss between the two. Used standard GE sillycone. Easier to work with than hot glue gun and sticks to the slick surfaces better.

Paul