DAC-Burr Brown PCM1792

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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited December 2013
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    FTGV wrote: »
    This is nice but may not be quite big enough.Searching ebay stores might turn up something suitable.

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2806-Aluminum-Preamplifier-enclosure-DAC-case-amplifier-chassis-AMP-BOX-/111147701555?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Amplifier_Parts&hash=item19e0eb5533#ht_3320wt_1124
    that one looks pretty nice :)

    $T2eC16dHJG!E9nm3rIHvBQ6t3BhSug~~60_58.JPG
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    I agree, but the shipping charges and times from China seems a little crazy. I'm so function over form it kills me, but it will be a nice DAC and probably should look as good as it will sound.
    Jake
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited December 2013
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    This one cost about the same, but shipping time is shorter, if it the right size..
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFi-DIY-Audio-amp-chassis-table-top-enclosure-Instrument-Case-20-12124N-/370819633385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56569290e9

    there are a couple of nice ones here.. but pricey too...
    http://www.diygene.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=48
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  • strider
    strider Posts: 2,568
    edited December 2013
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    kcoc321 wrote: »
    This one cost about the same, but shipping time is shorter, if it the right size..
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFi-DIY-Audio-amp-chassis-table-top-enclosure-Instrument-Case-20-12124N-/370819633385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56569290e9

    That is a nice one. Antek transformers have always been a good value and it looks like that case follows suit. This one may be a bit better of a fit for this board, IIRC the board itself is 9"x9.5".

    Circuit Specialists has a 2U size chassis in all steel for $39.00, but I think it may not be tall enough. The inside height is 3", the board may be fine but some of your PS parts might be close. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/37-2u.html

    Their 3U would have plenty of room, has an aluminum faceplate and rack handles but it's $79.00 plus shipping. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/et335b.html

    Both options from Circuit Specialists are finished in black.

    Repurposing a chassis is much cheaper, but does require some effort to have a decent final product. I bought a five disc changer from Goodwill for $5 and gutted it down to it's plastic chassis and steel outer panels. The most difficult part was modifying the plastic chassis so it was presentable and usable, while still maintaining structure. The steel panels are easy to redrill, sand, and paint if you want or need to, though. I tossed the complete front panel and made one from wood.
    Wristwatch--->Crisco
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    I have used these in the past when they were called Sescom http://www.wolgrammfg.com/products/ruSeries.html They have a nice selection of both 1RU and 2RU high units,depending upon what your tranny height requyirements will be.They are not heavy duty but sufficient for electronics projects.According to an earlier post the DAC board is 8"x8.75" so something like a 2RU10 should have plenty of realestate for the supply ,xformer and main board.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    Thanks guys for all the suggestions! I was looking at the 2U steel chassis from Circuit Specialists; the PS caps are 2" tall. I'm a little uncertain about drilling out the steel panels, but I will be installing minimal connections anyway.

    Does anyone have a favorite RCA jack for digital coax? Does it make sense to use a true 75 ohm BNC connector when the Squeezebox uses RCA out?

    Fred, have you used the 4V outputs and do you think it is worth the extra effort to install 2V and 4V analog outputs?
    Jake
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    I would install a BNC and if needed an RCA- BNC adapter (if your cable has RCA at both ends),both very inexpensive.You may change sources in the future.
    You would'nt need an extra set of outputs as the 2or 4 output option is set with on board jumpers.I only used the 2 volt output since I was using a preamp with 10db of gain.The 4 volt option would be very useful with a passive attenator but would likely prove to be too much for a normal preamp with gain.(It likely would restrict the choice of usable volume setting range to the first 1/4 turn or so).Also the low pass filter moves up to 200k from 70k which potentially (though not likely) could cause stability issues with some amp/preamps.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    Thanks Fred.

    I ordered the chassis and misc parts, so I think I have everything I need. I will be running BNC in, and simply modifying my current custom coax cable by swapping out one of the RCA plugs.
    Jake
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    +1 on the BNC in.

    I'm a big fan of Neutrik D panel mount connectors. Many connector types available. They make a BNC/BNC and BNC/solder terminal.

    49-199_01.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    You can use one of these in a pinch http://www.aartech.ca/bncmrcaf-adapter-bnc-male-to-rca-female.html?gclid=CMvAvvDitLsCFclaMgodzEkAvg Your local Rat Shack may have em.
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  • strider
    strider Posts: 2,568
    edited December 2013
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    I like the Neutriks. Just bought a pair for my last build, the hole to drill is a bit bigger then regular chassis mount jacks, but I find having the screws to secure them works a bit better.

    Another +1 for BNC.
    Wristwatch--->Crisco
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    I did order Neutrik connectors which I agree are great, but am worried about drilling out the larger diameter plug body in the steel chassis.

    37-2u-0.jpg
    Jake
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    It might be a little unordinary, but my plan is to put a piece of stiff foam on the bottom on the chassis, then zip-tie the boards and components down through holes in the bottom of the chassis through the foam. This way the components will be a little supported by the foam, and also isolated from contacting the steel chassis. I didn't really want to do stand-offs as they would add height, and the zip-ties and quick and easy to use.
    Jake
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    zingo wrote: »
    I did order Neutrik connectors which I agree are great, but am worried about drilling out the larger diameter plug body in the steel chassis.

    37-2u-0.jpg

    I hear you. I use a step drill in a drill press. It cuts a nice clean hole. You can use a hand drill too. Main thing is clamp the work so it doesn't move. First I apply masking tape to the panel. A step drill will sometimes drag a burr that can mar the finish. I go slow, take a break and from both sides so I don't overheat the finish. Less deburring when you run the bit in from both sides of panel too. I use a wood backing board under the panel. In a hurry, squirt the bit/panel with vegetable oil...lol

    31-PYnvrhsL.jpg

    A you can see no nasty scratches on my rear panel. For a cleaner look I mount the Neutrik's from inside. A black sharpie dulls the shiny metal the hole leaves.

    pesante_12.jpg

    phone.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    To show I wasn't just lucky, here was an earlier project where I employed that tape/easy does it step drill method.

    h23.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • strider
    strider Posts: 2,568
    edited December 2013
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    A you can see no nasty scratches on my rear panel. For a cleaner look I mount the Neutrik's from inside. A black sharpie dulls the shiny metal the hole leaves.

    Good call on mounting the Neutrik's from inside.

    I always admired the look of your rear panel, Rich...
    Wristwatch--->Crisco
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    Thanks Ben! Once I get a final config (still await Twisted Pears USB module) I am condsidering getting a thin aluminum panel CNC'd anodized black with silk screening. Since that pic was taken I added a Neutrik USB input. I know folks don't see the rear panel but it isn't as nice as the other end...lol
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    You should be able to source a hole punch the exact size for the Neutriks.It will make perfect burr free holes in your metal chassis.As for stand offs just use 4-40 screws through the bottom then inside use 4-40 nuts as spacers.Add as many as needed to give the PC boards clearance from the bottom panel while leaving enough clearance from the top..
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    (still await Twisted Pears USB module)l
    I have not been keeping up with their latest developments,whats the status on this?
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    Hey Fred. When I priced punches they were around $60 new so I used a step drill. They can run $15-30.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    FTGV wrote: »
    I have not been keeping up with their latest developments,whats the status on this?

    Not sure if he is securing patents. IIRC he was worried about the design being copped, didn't want to release it full featured or something like that. I gave up following the thread. There was a better I/V board in the works too, one without any common mode DC. Sometimes the part time approach gets old....
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    Yikes I figured it would be more like $30 ish.
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2013
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    Not sure if he is securing patents. IIRC he was worried about the design being copped, didn't want to release it full featured or something like that. I gave up following the thread. .... Sometimes the part time approach gets old....
    What someone pirate someone else's audio circuit?Who does that?Lol.I guess I won't hold my breath.
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,375
    edited December 2013
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    FTGV wrote: »
    What someone pirate someone else's audio circuit?Who does that?Lol.I guess I won't hold my breath.

    Back in August it was "I have a prototype, just working out the firmware kinks and deciding how far we want to go with various options." Then promotion at work and nada. I had to go back and look; the secret is a technique in the firmware.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    I have built some pretty terrible things in the past (not saying this current project is going to turn out any better :lol:), so it just takes practice and trial and error. Start with a small project that interests you, and try to learn something new with each project you do.
    Jake
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    As you can see no nasty scratches on my rear panel. For a cleaner look I mount the Neutrik's from inside. A black sharpie dulls the shiny metal the hole leaves.

    I really like the labeling tape for the connections, and I will do that with this DAC. It has a very professional look, even though I will have a very limited number of connections.
    Jake
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,551
    edited December 2013
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    zingo wrote: »
    I really like the labeling tape for the connections, and I will do that with this DAC. It has a very professional look, even though I will have a very limited number of connections.

    Yup, if you wanted to take it one step further, I really really liked the custom pinstripe text John had added to his tube amps (once they fixed their spelling error lol)....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    Ya, but I really don't care that much. Remember, I'm the guy who built a B1 buffer preamp in a piece of aluminum c-channel because it was functional...

    photo (1).JPG
    Jake
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    If the morning snow didn't screw things up, I should be getting the chassis and remaining parts today; woo hoo!
    Jake
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2013
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    image.jpg
    Jake
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