Mounting Hardware - OmniMounts

Veccster
Veccster Posts: 10
edited September 2008 in Speakers
I have a pair of speakers with a solid wood cabinet that I would like to mount on the wall. They do not have threaded inserts or keyholes. They are strictly made for a bookshelf.

Ideally, I would like to mount these to the wall. I found OmniMounts online and see that their hardware can be drilled into the back of solid wood speaker. It shows how to do this in the downloadable instructions.
http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=caeb35f6-771b-4e91-88d1-43f00b4fab6d&CurrentId=8.2.3.3

How would this affect the speaker quality? Will the difference be noticeable?

I am not an audiophile and am using the speakers in a sunporch that is not going to get quality sound anyway.

Are their other mounting options that would not require drilling into the rear of the speaker cabinet?

Thanks.
Post edited by Veccster on

Comments

  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited September 2008
    Welcome to the forum.

    Have you check out the B-Tech BT-77 wall mounts?

    Lots of Polk members use them, myself included.

    They work quite well.

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited September 2008
    Which bookshelf speakers do you have?
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited September 2008
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Which bookshelf speakers do you have?

    RTI4s...for now.... :D

    Oh...you meant the OP.... ;)

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited September 2008
    I'm using the Omnimounts drilled into a set of RTi28s for use on my rear wall (so I could angle them down and tow them in a bit). They shouldn't have any effect on the sound.

    I've also used the B-Tech mounts before and they work really well so long as you're not angling the speakers down too much. If you are and the speaker is fairly hefty, they still require you to screw into the speaker to secure it. The B-techs use a friction grip using a clamp on the sides.

    Either option should work. Personally, I'm much happier with the Omnimounts than I ever was with my B-techs.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited September 2008
    I have said it before (here as a matter of fact) and I will say it again - there is no reason to drill into a perfectly good speaker to secure it to the B-Tech mounts.

    BTW - fishing line works great also for those not into zip-tie constructions....

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited September 2008
    McLoki wrote: »
    I have said it before (here as a matter of fact) and I will say it again - there is no reason to drill into a perfectly good speaker to secure it to the B-Tech mounts.

    BTW - fishing line works great also for those not into zip-tie constructions....

    Michael

    +1... can I say that again? +1

    I just got my RTIA3s and was trying to figure out how to get them securely mounted on my BT-77s.

    The problem with the RTIA3s is that darned curved cabinet.

    I've got my current RTI4s tilted down, but because they are flat sided, the BT-77s can easily grip the sides and hold them securely even tilted down sharply.

    I tried this with the RTIA3s today and it was obvious that the curved sides did not provide enough area for the side brackets to 'pinch' enough to hold them in place - the cabinets easily tipped forward.

    Not a good thing... :(

    The cool thing about the Polk Powerports is that they are securely fastened to the back of the cabinet and with the great advice here, a sure way to keep the curvaceous A3s in place.

    All is right with the world once again!

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • Veccster
    Veccster Posts: 10
    edited September 2008
    The speakers will be angled down as they have to be placed in the upper corners of the room. I looked at both the B-Tech and the OmniMounts and decided to go with the white omnimounts. I found them new on eBay for a decent price ($16/ea shipped).

    The B-Techs are nice if you are hanging heavier speakers but I only needed the mounts for bookshelf speakers.

    Thanks for the help.
  • OnlyPolk
    OnlyPolk Posts: 137
    edited September 2008
    I wish I had seen these before I ordered (and installed) the BT-33 for a pair of FXIA4. The FX's have a keyhole mount (2 holes). My wall is sloped so I couldn't use those. The BT-33 provided a single keyhole point of attachment and I didn't feel that was enough. So I ended up adding some wire attached to the speaker and wound through the wall bracket to hold the speaker in case the keyhole mount came loose (I have also thought of getting a slim cat collar to use instead of the wire).

    Has anyone used the 77's with FXI's? Will they provide a firm grip on these triangular speakers?
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited September 2008
    McLoki wrote: »
    I have said it before (here as a matter of fact) and I will say it again - there is no reason to drill into a perfectly good speaker to secure it to the B-Tech mounts.

    BTW - fishing line works great also for those not into zip-tie constructions....

    Michael

    Yeah, I thought there was no need to drill into them with B-tech mounts too... until I took a RTi28 to the head from about 3 feet up, knocking the woofer out of its housing. That friction grip works great... until it doesn't.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited September 2008
    Take a look at the link I provided. There is no way it could slide from its perch and if it did, it would hang there from the zip tie.

    I would not trust just the friction grip, but I would not screw something into the speaker either. Could also try some blu-tack. That would help as well.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)