Dayton Speaker Cables?

TomB
TomB Posts: 106
I'm getting ready to place an order with Parts Express for capacitors, resistors, solder, etc to upgrade the crossovers in my Monitor 7Bs. (I started a thread over in the Vintage section with questions on that project.)

While I have an order going, I was considering ordering a pair of these:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=181-600&ctab=1

I know they're nothing special, but the price is right, and I suspect they'll be an improvement over the Monster Cable Clear that I've been using forever.

One problem: my 7Bs will accept the banana plugs, but my old Harmon Kardon receiver just has the cheap-o terminals where you push a button, insert the stripped speaker wire, then release the button to grab the wire. (I've never liked those connections.)

I hate to just cut the plugs off of the Dayton cable and strip the wires. Will I be able to un-solder the banana plugs, so I could reinstall them later, when I get a better receiver or amp? Is there some terminal or adapter that will go from a banana plug to a bare conductor?

Thanks. Any ideas will be appreciated.
Post edited by TomB on

Comments

  • dc55110
    dc55110 Posts: 128
    edited September 2008
    Add these to your purchase: Dayton SPINGS-2MM Speaker Pin Compression
    (((STEREO)))
    Sony DVP-N9000es
    Squeezebox Duet
    Theta ProBasic IIIA
    Audio Research SP14
    White Audio Labs B1
    Transparent SoundWave Super
    Paradigm Studio Monitor
    B&W 802 s3


    HT
    Sony Bravia KDL-40Z4100
    Sony BDP-S350
    Yamaha HTR-5790
    NHT SB3 (Fronts)
    NHT SC2 (center)
    NHT SB2 (surround)
    Velodyne FSR12
  • TomB
    TomB Posts: 106
    edited September 2008
    Thanks, DC and Keiko. I take it that my receiver will accept those pin-type connectors? If so, there is an adapter on the e-z hook website that has a banana socket and a pin plug that will do the trick.

    Is there any problem with having that adapter in the cable on a long-term basis? The website makes it look like these things are intended for testing purposes, which I assume would be only temporary.

    Maybe I'd just be better off getting some decent speaker wire, banana plugs and pin plugs and putting my own cables together. I know speaker cables are a big deal around here, and that I can get them custom-made with any terminals I want, but that's a bit more money than I wish to spend.

    Thanks again.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited September 2008
    I hate to sound like a broken record, but... AudioQuest Type4 works much better than standard cables without needing connectors. $4 a foot, strip the ends, and you are done. Nothing fancy, but real good SQ.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • daboyz
    daboyz Posts: 5,207
    edited September 2008
    The 5000UE is an excellent cable,I have it running to my rears. But, the AQ Type 4 is superior. If you're patient you can get some great deals on the bay.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited September 2008
    I agree with both Ben and daboyz.

    The AudioQuest Type 4 would sound very nice and you're done for a while or ever.

    The Belden 5000UE cable sounds very nice also I ran a lot of that in my walls, sounds very nice also but a step or tow under the AQ cable. But if you need to installed 600' of it the 5000UE cable is very very sweet then. ;)

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • TomB
    TomB Posts: 106
    edited September 2008
    Thanks for the information, everyone.

    The Belden cable is quite inexpensive - and heavy duty! 10 or 12 AWG would be a bit of overkill for me, I think.

    The Audioquest Type 4 is real purdy, and the price isn't bad. There's a very esoteric explanation of how it works on one of the websites. Hmmm...

    Ben, if I just go with stripping the ends on the Audioquest, without terminating, how do I deal with the separate conductors - just twist them together, and then use the holes in the binding posts on the speakers, as I'm doing now? And the same way back at the receiver? I know they're solid conductors, but they're small enough to handle that way, it looks like.

    Thanks again.