recapping SDA CRSs and 10Bs
Jon Leinen
Posts: 2
Hello,
I am new to the forum and need some advice on recapping my CRSs and 10Bs. The CRSs produce a slight static noise a moderate volume. I have swapped out the tweeters with know good ones from my 5jrs and the problem persists. I have also tried the 10Bs and the static noise goes away. So, maybe it's time for a recap and also for the aging 10Bs. I have found most of the caps for the CRSs from Parts Express, however, there is the .5uf and the 750pf caps that are unavailable. From the schematic I have found Jantzen p/n 027-934 (12uf), Jantzen p/n 027-942 (27uf) and Dayton p/n 027-252 (20uf). I am assuming all are nonpolar. Are these good choices and what can be used for the .5uf and 750pf caps?
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jon
I am new to the forum and need some advice on recapping my CRSs and 10Bs. The CRSs produce a slight static noise a moderate volume. I have swapped out the tweeters with know good ones from my 5jrs and the problem persists. I have also tried the 10Bs and the static noise goes away. So, maybe it's time for a recap and also for the aging 10Bs. I have found most of the caps for the CRSs from Parts Express, however, there is the .5uf and the 750pf caps that are unavailable. From the schematic I have found Jantzen p/n 027-934 (12uf), Jantzen p/n 027-942 (27uf) and Dayton p/n 027-252 (20uf). I am assuming all are nonpolar. Are these good choices and what can be used for the .5uf and 750pf caps?
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jon
Post edited by Jon Leinen on
Comments
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the 750pf caps are not needed... they are bypass caps. My suggestion is to go to soniccraft.com and get sonicaps. they are more expensive but it's been pretty well established that they are the best bang for the buck...
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Welcome to the Club Polk Forum Jon!!! Did you check the fuse connection in the back of the speaker?? Sometimes the fuse holder or the wiring to the fuse holder becomes loose. I confess, It happened to me after I replaced the tweeter. Check the connections. Good luck! Report back and welcome to the Forum!Carl
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These are the first generation CRSs and have an internally mounted safetyguard fuse. (RDE050A). I visually and physically examined all solder connections and found them clean and bright. The wire connections show no signs of cold or broken solder.
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Welcome to Club Polk
The Poly switches can go partially bad. I had a set that had the buzz. You can get the from Polk just mention you are a CP member. As for the caps I prefer all Dayton's, or if budget allows Sonicaps. Don't forget to change out the resistors while you are in there.
Enjoy
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Jon
Welcome to CP
Any updates or questions? Feel free to ask away,show pictures and give updates.
Drew -
it would be nice if someone could post a step by step video upgrading the cross overs. I'm not afrad to try it but I just hate to make a miistake with the Iron gun...... what ever it's called. I tried it with my 2A's and still the tweeter is not working. I tried to by pass the Polyswitch.There's a store here that does it but they want $45 dollars before they even look at it. Therefore for the in my 1.2's and Polyswitch replacement for my 2A's and buying all the parts Probably cost me mucho $$$$$$$ if I let them do fix the Shop.I'll take it there if I have no other choice.PolkAudioClyde
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Where are you located?"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Dayton .47 will work for .5 use the FF instead of the MP. Daytons=best bang
I have used the Jantzens and it is a very fine cap, very clean neutral sound.
Solens too me are a bit scratchy for HP sections.
Look at the dimensions of all, measure and visualize how you are planning to fit them on the board. MP's are a lot larger than elecrolytics in the larger values.
I had to be very creative with some redo's I've done for friends because of the size of some XO boards.
Paul -
Paul is not kidding; the new components are multiple times larger than the ones you are replacing. I was able to squeeze the Solen caps onto the original pcb of my RTA15s the first time I upgraded. When I decided to upgrade the upgrade :cool: I used the Jantzen Z-Superior caps, and they were way way way too large to fit. I removed the original pcb and mounted everything to a standalone board in the bottom of the enclosure.
You will be amazed at the improvement in your speakers!
Welcome to CP and good luck with your speakers
Party On,
JakeParty On :cool:
Jake
In the beginning, the universe was created. This made a lot of people very angry, and was widely regarded as having been a bad idea. -
Funny, some of you guys seem to think that no one else here has ever upgraded a crossover before. Pffft!
BTW, the search function is very helpful here.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I find the "Advanced Search" works best. Welcome back F1, I hope you are feeling more yourself you tough son of a ****!!!
No mom reference here just facts. -
Yes, good point.
Thanks Joe. No smokes for 5 days, yeah I feel like starting WWIII and kicking some ****.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
it would be nice if someone could post a step by step video upgrading the cross overs. I'm not afrad to try it but I just hate to make a miistake with the Iron gun...... what ever it's called. I tried it with my 2A's and still the tweeter is not working. I tried to by pass the Polyswitch.There's a store here that does it but they want $45 dollars before they even look at it. Therefore for the in my 1.2's and Polyswitch replacement for my 2A's and buying all the parts Probably cost me mucho $$$$$$$ if I let them do fix the Shop.I'll take it there if I have no other choice.
maybe this will help
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19053&highlight=sda+improvementsJC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
it would be nice if someone could post a step by step video upgrading the cross overs. I'm not afrad to try it but I just hate to make a miistake with the Iron gun...... what ever it's called. I tried it with my 2A's and still the tweeter is not working. I tried to by pass the Polyswitch.There's a store here that does it but they want $45 dollars before they even look at it. Therefore for the in my 1.2's and Polyswitch replacement for my 2A's and buying all the parts Probably cost me mucho $$$$$$$ if I let them do fix the Shop.I'll take it there if I have no other choice.
These guys do a basic beginners' thing. Nothing sophisticated. I'm sure there's others on youtube.
http://www.blip.tv/file/126631
As for steps, yeah, that's handy. Here's a pretty informative thread:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28959
This is also a cool page:
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Articles/constxo/xoconst.htm
