HVAC Recommendations?
Comments
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I would also mention that folks with 2500 sq/ft house it isn't uncommon for them to have $500 power bills in the Summer.
Wonder if it helps to install the outside unit on the shady side of the house.
W -
Also, you might want to consider getting a multi-zone system.
Keep the bedrooms warm during the day while cooling the living area, and reverse the pattern at night. -
After reading the thread, I have only seen a couple of things mentioned about SEER ratings. For a more detailed description here is a link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratio
It can also be expressed loosely as a percentage a 14 SEER unit is 40% more efficient than a 10 SEER unit. Also, from January 2006 the minimum SEER rating is 13 that can be built. (The maximum SEER rating is 23)
Down in Texas, we have a tendency to concentrate on SEER ratings over any thing else other than reliability and repair cost. The general rule of thumb, down here when replacing an HVAC unit is to not get below a 14 SEER rating. Above a 19 SEER, you start to see diminishing returns. Meaning that you spend quit a bit more money for an 20 SEER unit over a 18 SEER. The unit is more efficient, but the increased cost takes it longer for you to break even on extra expense.
If you could get a 14 SEER unit and it reduces your yearly bill by $500 the unit would pay for itself over a period of 7 or so years. I would also mention that folks with 2500 sq/ft house it isn't uncommon for them to have $500 power bills in the Summer. Higher SEER rated units pay themselves back pretty quick down here.
For me, AC units are like insulation. I don't mind spending a few more $'s up front as long as I know I'm going to get that money paid back to me in my monthly bills and once I get even it is saving me money.
Scott
SEER is important, but not the be-all, end-all. When you look at your power bill, there are many factors in play, and the HVAC system is often overstated when you consider the stove/oven, hot water heater, clothes dryer, dishwasher, etc. A much cheaper way to save on heating/cooling costs is to improve insulation to modern levels. An expensive but significant route is windows/doors.
While the higher SEER units will save money, also keep in mind when doing the payback period that HVAC units are no longer designed to last 20/25 years. Modern units are designed with the expectation that the system is replaced in 12/15 years, so keep that in mind when computing the pay back on the higher SEER systems. Also a poor installation job will easily turn that 15 SEER system into a 10 SEER system. If memory serves you should look for a "NAIT Certified" or "NATE Certified" installer as that is a much more meaningful certification that the essentially joke level of expertise required for most state's mechanical contractors licenses. -
Also a poor installation job will easily turn that 15 SEER system into a 10 SEER system.
Leaky duct work ... #1 killer -
Heat pumps are much more efficient than you think. If you've been told otherwise, then you're talking to someone who hasn't learned anything about it in the last, oh, 10 - 12 years. I ran into this alot when I was getting estimates. If gas is much cheaper per therm where you live than electricty, then heat with gas exclusively. I do best heating with the heat pump as long as I can.
You are right, it looks like the installers in my area have been using these and working great. They have a great deal going with Cornbelt Energy, my local gas company that makes you save even more. The really nice thing is that you're not stuck with one or the other, and can use both electricity and gas. Looks like the dual/fuel heat pump is the way to go, the price isn't really any more and is about the same price for both.
Thanks for the help guys! -
I appreciate all the help guys!
Does anyone know where you can purchase these units outright, besides going through a contractor and having them sock it to you? I see you can purchase "Goodman" products online, but can't seem to find anything else.
WWGrainger has Dayton units and very good prices, you need to know somebody that's got an account there.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=gas+furnace&L1=Gas+Furnaces%2C
A straight gas furnace can have AC evap coil installed in plenum and other unit (comp.) set up outside. Grainger sells everything you need. You might want to think about additional insulation on your attic floor!:)good luck,gdb -
Leaky duct work ... #1 killer
It sure is, our house is 2100sqft. The room above the garage was not getting any AC. So since our house is only 2yrs I called the builder, they sent over the HVAC guys, well, all the vents had to be calibrated as well as they taped all joints where possible on the main shaft in the basement, the room went from a reading of 21cfms to now 180cfms.
What we have, is a Lennox forced air gas rated @ 94 SEER and what I think is a 3tonn(not sure how to tell) Ducane outside AC unit.
Gadabout, 500$ seems very high, our electric bills are only 90$mth and that is having the house set @ 21C or 70F and it's usually about 25-35C with humidity 77-95F. -
Gadabout, 500$ seems very high, our electric bills are only 90$mth and that is having the house set @ 21C or 70F and it's usually about 25-35C with humidity 77-95F.
The recent increases in power rates in Texas haven't helped. I assure you that $500 power bills aren't uncommon here. Granted these folks aren't in Energy Star houses. The average power bill of my friends $300 - $400. Mine probably averages $150 but I'm not home that much.
I guess it is the Texas Sun, brick houses and folks who like to keep their houses below 75F. Of course, the trade off down here is that during the winter, power bills drop substantially.Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid. ..... Frank Zappa -
I can't wait to get my bill every month. July was $102 for a 1100 sq ft house and the avg temp in july was 97 f.
