DIY home window tint?

disneyjoe7

Can it be done, can a product be purchased so it doesn't scream DIY?

Should this be best left for the pro's?

Anyone done this and can post a picture of your work?

Jstas

For your car or your house?

You can use the car stuff on your house windows. I don't have pictures but I've done it before and it is WAAAAAAAY easier on a flat, squared house window than a curved, oddly shaped car window.

disneyjoe7

Yes for the house.

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier, going to be around O Town anytime soon? Need a little side job?

steveinaz

An exacto knife and some tint--I think you can DIY it easy enough. When my car windows were done, the guy did a super cleaning on them, then sprayed them throughly with water and applied the tint. Once he had it spread flat, he simply cut around the edges to remove the excess.

disneyjoe7

Ok I agree it doesn't look like something I couldn't do, it's more of the quality of the material of the product in which I can by.

Meaning the 3M product in which I feel is best, but you can't buy it for a DIY and it comes at a premium installed.

http://www.3m.com/us/arch_construct/scpd/prestige/products.htm

zingo

Your right; tinting isn't hard, but the average person can't get good tint film. I've had a few friends buy the best stuff they can over the counter, install it well themselves, but a few months later it just goes to crap.

Although, if you could find a professional source for tint, you might have something.

disneyjoe7

So does that rule out DIY? There's not a company in which you can buy a higher grade film for DIY?

I got 2 companies coming out Tuesday for estimates one being a 3M dealer, and the other not. If nothing else will be an education hour or two. All I know I don't wish to take away from the street rating, but I know if I wish to reduce my AC $$ cool bill I need to do something with 100 sg ft windows on the west side of my house. Which is also my front side of my house, the afternoon sun is heating the house too much. I read something about every 100 sg ft window which are tinted would reduce AC about 12000 BTU's / 1 ton :eek:

Jstas

You can go to 3M's website and buy any of their products direct from the company store there.

It's impossible to find their really thin, double-sided foam tape in quantities smaller than industrial bulk until I went to their online store and ordered what I needed directly. You won't save any money and sometimes its more expensive but availability and convienice is what the bonuses are there.

As far as applying it, it all goes the same. Use a soapy solution or other water based lubricant to apply, peel the back off and slowly press down evenly. Use a special tool or a flexible credit card like a supermarket coupon card to gently work the bubbles out. Any persistent bubbles, a VERY small pin **** to the bubble and work in from the edge with the card to remove the air and get the tint down. Let it dry and then go back with an exacto or a razor blade and trim the excess. Personally, I'd rather use a ceramic craft blade from a place like Michael's or whatever other craft store you have. They don't need lube cause they slide really easy, they are beyond razor sharp and do not dull any where near as fast as your average high carbon steel razor.

Take your time and your patience will be rewarded.

Jstas

Here, this is likely what you are looking for:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/WF/3MWindowFilms/Products/ProductCatalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQG0V7_nid=N0R0HVF41JbeT4DCJBL6BVgl

Here are more options:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/WF/3MWindowFilms/Products/ProductCatalog/?WT.mc_id=keymatch


If you call up the customer service line, they have always been helpful to me. They can tell you where you can buy the stuff if you want to do it yourself or give you the number of a local installer. But you seem to already have a local installer coming.

FYI, this stuff is not cheap even if you do it yourself. So be ready for some sticker shock. However, the 3M stuff is some of the best stuff on the market and it was made just for your kind of situation. If you get this done, look up the tax laws bother for state and feds. I think you get a tax break to help offset the costs.

BaggedLancer

What is the purpose of tinting home windows? Is that what blinds/shades/curtains are for? Not trying to be an a$$ but what's the purpose? and wouldn't it deduct on the value of your home? Unless of course you remove it before sale....which would cost more $.

disneyjoe7

BaggedLancer wrote: »

What is the purpose of tinting home windows? Is that what blinds/shades/curtains are for? Not trying to be an a$$ but what's the purpose? and wouldn't it deduct on the value of your home? Unless of course you remove it before sale....which would cost more $.

I think a picture would help here. I can do it tomorrow, I got to work now. :cool:

BaggedLancer

Yea, I guess I need a picture....I've just never seen or heard of it being done around here.

ben62670

Down south the sun is brutal. I did a few windows on the X wifes house and it makes a big difference. Blinds are on the inside, and the heat has already radiated through. I used the crap from HD. Don't bother with that stuff. It shrinks. The window has to be very very clean. Little paint over spray specks end up leaving big bumps somehow.
Ben

Jstas

They leave big bumps because as they heat up, they release fumes and the fumes have no place to go so they make a big, hard bump.

ben62670

Jstas wrote: »

They leave big bumps because as they heat up, they release fumes and the fumes have no place to go so they make a big, hard bump.

Never thought of it that way. I knew I didn't leave air pockets in there!

disneyjoe7

Any thoughts on these companies / products.

Solarfilmco http://www.solarfilmco.com/

RSTERN

Joe, I used a product for a company named "Gila" and did my patio doors because they faced west. they had sun on them all afternoon and evening. It Helped out abunch. My dad and I did the install ourselves and it was pretty easy. Here is a link www.gilafilms.com
Rob

disneyjoe7

Rob,

You are using Gila films which the big box store sells. It's seems like it would work, but I feel the mirror look of house, and the mirror looking out at night could be an issue. Have you noticed this also and if so has it been ok with you?

Because of this being the front windows of house effecting 5 areas of windows, a product used in the front would be used all around the house, keeping the same look.

BaggedLancer

Gila is nice stuff....used it twice before, never an issue. (2 different cars, always parked outside in sunlight).

BeRad

I'd recommend 3m or Lumar. Lumar makes very high quality tint for auto or residential. You can do it yourself and having tinted numerous vehicles and home/commercial windows (as part of my job) I'd be happy to give a few tips. Most places that do tinting around my parts will sell you a roll or half roll of tint, but if you are going with 3m or Lumar, it won't be cheap. Having the proper cleaning products and adhesion promoter make a world of difference and good squeegies help too (although a large card wrapped in soft white paper towel can do the trick well.

If you are a hand's on type of person you should be able to pull it off, if you are unsure of yourself, spend the money. After all, you get what you pay for right?


added notes: Bumps are usually caused by specs of dust or dirt. Always scape the window (wet) with razor blades and then with a soft scouring pad. Tint should not be used in conjunction with blinds that are ALWAYS closed when on a sealed unit (mainly a problem with dual units) as heat gets trapped on one side leaving the other cool and causes cracking. We have a customer that won't listen to this advice with east-facing windows that are never in shade, and have replaced the same 800 dollar window 3 times because of this.

Cheers and good luck.

BeRad

BaggedLancer wrote: »

What is the purpose of tinting home windows? Is that what blinds/shades/curtains are for? Not trying to be an a$$ but what's the purpose? and wouldn't it deduct on the value of your home? Unless of course you remove it before sale....which would cost more $.

Reasons to tint home windows. (many different films types available)

1: Lower the percentage of light and UV rays coming in, thus cooler.
2: Lower the percentage of light coming in, thus not as bright. (but can still see out)
3: Security in that when it is bright outside, hard to see inside, Different degrees of reflectiveness are available. (people can't see your gear)
4: Security in that it does strengthen the glass slightly.
5: Security films are available that make the glass almost impossible to break through even with a crowbar or hammer. (this film is expensive and thick. Tough as nails, it does not rip or tear and can only be cut with razor)

Gadabout

Quite a few folks down here have tinted thier windows. I have done so in the past too.

Something you might also want to consider is Solar Screens. They are really popular here.

Just one website from many to choose from: http://www.metroscreenworks.com/solar-screen.html

Sherardp

Home Depot carries and they have a variety of designs also. Check it out.

RSTERN

Joe,
The mirror look might be an issue being you are using it on front windows. The mirror was not issue for me, My main issue was to reduce the tempature rise in dining and livingroom of a evening. The temp in that area would go up 6-8 deg. in a evening. The tint cut that in half to 3-4 deg.
Rob

disneyjoe7

Where can I buy Lumar film online, so I can get a price?

BeRad

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Where can I buy Lumar film online, so I can get a price?

Not sure. The shops I have worked for that use Lumar sell it to customers who want to do it themselves. I haven't ever looked to see if it can even be purchased online.

disneyjoe7

BeRad,

Could you give me a recommendation on which Lumar film to use, if I wish it to be neutral and not very reflective looking at house. Or do you need a picture to help?

With a film # I can call the dealer and see if they can sell it to me. I'm pretty sure I going with Solarfilmco with NC-35 or NC-50 they price is twice price by Gila films but about 1/4 of the reflective look at house. I still have 2 companies coming this Tuesday so I'm interested on they product and price, I'm thinking 3M will be like $10 a sg ft and the other one will be $5 a sg ft. Gila film is about $.80 a sg ft, where Solarfilmco is about $1.55 a sg ft.

disneyjoe7

I don't mind having another product film which is better then would I can get, but I need a source.... My $ is about under $2.50 sg ft., over that why wouldn't I get a company do it for around $5.00 sg ft.?

BIZILL

http://www.llumar.com/na-eng/contact.html dealer

it's LLumar, not lumar. i used to tint cars but got my start in residential/commercial buildings. llumar is the brand we used. the trick is the preparation. honestly, i would not recommend going at this DIY. unless you really don't care about the results. we did multi-million $ homes and obviously a top-quality job was a necessity.

if you so choose to go at this alone...how big is your window? wood framed windows? aluminum? no matter what, make sure you clean the heck outta the top, sides and bottom. any grit at all will become something to fixate on for years to come. depending on the size of your windows, good luck cutting to size on your own. we had a guy hired solely to pre-cut sizes for windows.

our job as installers was to clean with a LARGE razor blade and a solution of water and dawn dishwashing liquid. joy, if you prefer. it cleans and is also used to apply the film. it adds lubricity enough to slide the tint into place. but once you squeege (sp?) out the solution, it won't move unless you peel it from the window.

anyway, the trick is to leave a light gap on both sides. approx 1/16" if you're good. DO NOT attempt to 'tuck' film beneath the side frames. you need to squeege out the soapy water and it MUST have an escape route. i admit, a tiny light gap around both sides of the window are a bit of a distraction, but it MUST be done in this manner in order to get quality results.

man, i skipped like 12 steps, but you get the gist. it's really not for the novice. you gotta wet the entire pane with the soapy water and then have the rolled up piece of tint that is cut approx. 1/2" oversize and then take your teeth and tongue to separate the film from the protective adhesive side and then drop that beotch all the way open like a yo-yo, only with no return motion. place one edge approx. 1/16" from one side. tuck the top if you wish, but just barely, move tint into place. all this must be done before the wet pane dries ANY. no room for error. you touch the adhesive side to the pane with no wet lubrication and you just trashed the piece of film.

next, you spray the piece of tint on the side facing you. then you take a squeege of the correct durometer and squeege out the water from between the tint and the pane of glass. get as much as possible. if there are a few water bubbles, then that's okay. it's impossible to get them completely out. they will evaporate in a few day's time.

now your film is in place, you must crease the overlapped side as best you can to the edge of the remaining side. remember, your first edge, usually the left, is already in place. hopefully your window panes are square...but that's another nightmare. next you take the bottom right corner and cut a 45 degree angle from the bottom so that the corner rests 1/16" from the bottom corner of the frame. at the bottom corner you MUST fold the bottom and side enough to lay flat on the glass. if you do this incorrectly, you will create a 'zipper' in the film. it's a crease that's near impossible to uncrease and it looks like just that, a 'zipper' zig-zag in the way of your beautiful view.

next, take a 'straightedge' and use it to align your side-frame cut. this will afford you the 1/16" gap i spoke of. if you're good, like me, then you need no straightedge and use the frame of the window to uniformally cut that entire legth of film.

then comes the bottom. you must leave a gap down here especially as the remaining water not squeeged out will 'pool' and suck dirt in while lifting the film away from the pane. you must cut this bottom as you did the side. after you have made all your cuts, then re-wet the entire film and re-squeege the water beneath. dry all four sides of the frame so that water does not slip it's way back beneath the film, often times bringing dirt and grit with it.

being that i'm in the hot desert, i must tell you, working in the sun (big no-no, as the soapy water solution evaporates and dries near instantaneously) your body gets rather hot in direct sunlight. once i drop the film like a yo-yo on the downswing, it's instant shade the body immediately thanks you for. the stuff works. though it will slightly degrade your normal view. it's darker, obviously, unless you get the clear stuff which only blocks out the UV rays and some infra-red. if you are right up against the window and look out, your view will be a tad bit blurry compared to glass alone, for obvious reasons.

sorry this tutorial was not put together in any organized fashion. and i probably left out many steps as i have not tinted in 8-9 years. but be fore-warned. if you want a professional quality job that will be an INVESTMENT to your home, by all means, hire a licenses installer. that way the film's or installation company's warranty (lifetime for the company i worked for) will not be void.

if on the other hand you care only to block some heat and save some bills...have at it. good luck, my friend.

biz.

p.s. i forgot to mention the 'specialty' tools we use in the industry. i would not advise using your average squeege used for cleaning windows. you won't push out enough water this way, even though the llumar website shows a shmuck using one to install a piece of film on that arched window. also i must mention that if you follow the incomplete tutorial i typed above, you will get professional results. bare in mind all these steps (some forgotten or omitted purposefully) come with years of practice.

disneyjoe7

Biz,

I hear what you're saying and thanks for all the tips. Its less of the fact I feel I can't pull it off and have it look like a pro did it, but more of the fact I could be working with an inferior product. I never do anything I not proud of, and feel I can do a better job then most people I could hire for anything. It seems the more I do for myself the less I'm impressed with some one else's work.

SCompRacer

We have 14’ ceilings with a row of five upper windows in the living room/foyer area. The late morning light coming through was a bit intense. The wife found various designs of Window Covering Films at the local Home Depot. She is a Master Gardener and flower enthusiast, so the choice was "Orchids." I was the installer. It reduced the intensity of the morning light and added an artsy look to the windows. At night, with lights on in the inside, it looks like it does on the inside with daylight coming through. Artscape was the name on the stuff, IIRC.

Our glass guy was out for some warranty work and said this film is OK, but some of the reflective ones will damage and void dual pane insulated glass warranties.