RTi10 Too brite

hydrostream
hydrostream Posts: 549
edited September 2008 in Speakers
How could i tone them down a little? I listen to mostly rock and
metal so i like good amout of highs but man way too brite.
I think my 8s were better overall they sure cranked up better.
jerry
Main- GTP-500II,GDC-600,GFA-555II and energy C-500s
Basement-Audiosource pre/tuner,GFA-545,Onkyo
DX-1400 and RTI10s
Garage-GTP-450,onkyo M-282 and R50s with RTi55
drivers and X-overs.
My baby 18' V-king Mod VP with a merc 2.4 BP.
KTM 620 Supermoto
Post edited by hydrostream on

Comments

  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,290
    edited August 2008
    Try adding a resistor in line with the positive terminal of the tweeters. 1.25R has been suggested before.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • candyliquor35m
    candyliquor35m Posts: 2,267
    edited August 2008
    If the highs are too bright but not too loud then you can fine tune the crossover point for the tweeter with a in-line 1.0 uf/mfd 250 v mylar cap. If the 1.0 dulls the tweeter too much, try a 2.2 uf/mfd 250 v mylar cap.
  • hydrostream
    hydrostream Posts: 549
    edited August 2008
    If i go to radio shack is that what i ask for? And just add it between
    the + of tweeter and wire?
    Also after having a look inside of these puppies i would have
    thought that it was 2 seperate boxxes instead of being all open
    inside. I mean seperate the mid from the woofers?
    jerry
    Main- GTP-500II,GDC-600,GFA-555II and energy C-500s
    Basement-Audiosource pre/tuner,GFA-545,Onkyo
    DX-1400 and RTI10s
    Garage-GTP-450,onkyo M-282 and R50s with RTi55
    drivers and X-overs.
    My baby 18' V-king Mod VP with a merc 2.4 BP.
    KTM 620 Supermoto
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,290
    edited August 2008
    Yes, just take the tweeters out and add the resistor between the wire and the positive terminal. It is not recommended to take heed to post #2.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Cochise
    Cochise Posts: 52
    edited August 2008
    Might sound dumb, but have you tried adjusting the Treble control on the receiver? That might help in the short term.
  • candyliquor35m
    candyliquor35m Posts: 2,267
    edited August 2008
    The problem with resistors is that you reduce the soundstage and the brightness but the brightness is still there but at a reduced volume.

    If you use caps, you are attacking the brightness head on by preventing (blocking) the harsh mids from ever getting to the tweeter.

    Try both and see what works best for you.
  • Ern Dog
    Ern Dog Posts: 2,237
    edited August 2008
    I had the same problem of Rti10's being too bright. I ended up upgrading everything and started with a warm sounding amp, then added a tube pre, then got a dedicated cdp. Each upgrade helped tone down the highs. Different speaker cables can help too.

    Some free tweaks you could do that could help a little is adding some carpets/rugs (if you have wood floors), adding a bookcase can help absorb along with hanging tapestries, drapes, etc. You could also play with speaker placement and lastly you could try adjusting the amount of toe-in.

    All these things helped. In the end it wasn't enough for me and I ended up upgrading the speakers because they are naturally on the bright end of the spectrum.
  • hydrostream
    hydrostream Posts: 549
    edited August 2008
    I think i may sell the 10s and look for something that will fit my
    style of music. I just hooked up my sons old AR 318ps and they
    are cranked up and sound pretty sweet.
    Anyone in the market for a set of 10s missing the feet and a few
    nicks here and there?
    jerry
    Main- GTP-500II,GDC-600,GFA-555II and energy C-500s
    Basement-Audiosource pre/tuner,GFA-545,Onkyo
    DX-1400 and RTI10s
    Garage-GTP-450,onkyo M-282 and R50s with RTi55
    drivers and X-overs.
    My baby 18' V-king Mod VP with a merc 2.4 BP.
    KTM 620 Supermoto
  • wizzy
    wizzy Posts: 867
    edited August 2008
    What I found out is if you blow the tweeter in one of them, the high end milds down quite a bit!

    I haven't tried frying the other one yet, but I feel safe to venture the theory that doing so would further reduce the harshness.

    W
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited August 2008
    Boy jerry giving up on the 10's so fast. I remember when we got these back earlier in the year. Stick with them...don't give up....try the tweek and turn them down...lol...

    I love my 10's just wish I had the right equipment to listen to real stereo.
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,290
    edited August 2008
    Basically the tweak attenuates the tweeter itself making it not so bright. No harm will be done and you can experiment a little to find out what suits your individual tastes. A 1ohm resistor could be used as well, for example. That's a $2-3.00 tweak that might just make you keep the speakers. Just a thought.........

    They are nice speakers.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • jnickrand
    jnickrand Posts: 5
    edited August 2008
    Turn the treble down -2 dB.
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited August 2008
    What's the exact part at radio shack?
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited August 2008
    Kchill wrote: »
    What's the exact part at radio shack?

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=005-1.5
    I would not use any rat shack parts for this. They don't have anything of proper wattage to handle it. The part listed above could be placed in between the two positive binding post instead of the jumper. This would attenuate the highs a bit.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited August 2008
    good luck,,let us know your results.:)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited August 2008
    ben62670 wrote: »
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=005-1.5
    I would not use any rat shack parts for this. They don't have anything of proper wattage to handle it. The part listed above could be placed in between the two positive binding post instead of the jumper. This would attenuate the highs a bit.
    Ben

    Ben how many do I need for this? There should only be 1 positive going into the tweeter correct? So I guess I need 2 right?

    Also do you think they have these at our local Fry's?

    Seeing how were both in Atlanta I may use you in about a year when I complete my basement home theater build. Do you know a thing or two about projectors?
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited August 2008
    How could i tone them down a little? I listen to mostly rock and
    metal so i like good amout of highs but man way too brite.
    I think my 8s were better overall they sure cranked up better.
    jerry

    are you driving them with the onkyo805 + audyssey calibration?
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited August 2008
    Kchill wrote: »
    Ben how many do I need for this? There should only be 1 positive going into the tweeter correct? So I guess I need 2 right?

    Also do you think they have these at our local Fry's?

    Seeing how were both in Atlanta I may use you in about a year when I complete my basement home theater build. Do you know a thing or two about projectors?

    You ****! You didn't show up for the PFGA:confused: I know setup of projectors. Others here can give better advice on a purchase. I was an electricians so some wiring can be done. Now back to the resistor. It has to be ordered. You would need one for each speaker. Like I said install between the speaker jumpers, and don't bother opening the speaker. If you install the resistor at the driver it will throw off the XO point.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • joe.inom
    joe.inom Posts: 16
    edited September 2008
    you can tune your equilizer such tha the high values of K's are turned low , such teh the tweeters sound will be reduced.
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited September 2008
    ben62670 wrote: »
    You ****! You didn't show up for the PFGA:confused: I know setup of projectors. Others here can give better advice on a purchase. I was an electricians so some wiring can be done. Now back to the resistor. It has to be ordered. You would need one for each speaker. Like I said install between the speaker jumpers, and don't bother opening the speaker. If you install the resistor at the driver it will throw off the XO point.
    Ben

    When was the PFGA??? Where...I'll show up next time. So your saying where the brass jumper are...that would put it outside the speaker at the terminals right?
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited September 2008
    Kchill wrote: »
    When was the PFGA??? Where...I'll show up next time. So your saying where the brass jumper are...that would put it outside the speaker at the terminals right?

    yep. Thats it. You are welcome any time. No need for a big group. I like to meet Polkies.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • daniel_paul_
    daniel_paul_ Posts: 189
    edited September 2008
    I am going to give this a try on my RTi 8's but I would like a little background considering I do not know circuitry.

    1. (2) binding posts; does this mean that there is an independent highpass crossover for the tweet and a low pass for the woofers. (This seams logical)

    2. Do the resisteres lower the volume on the tweeter? I am thinking that by increasing the resistance I am lowering the amps and volts. So, if the tweeter is too quiet with the 1.5 Ohm I could try the 0.5 Ohm. Is this correct?
  • hydrostream
    hydrostream Posts: 549
    edited September 2008
    Let me tell you about my other problem with the 10s.
    The one mid woofer had a problem the spider came seperated
    from the cone. Had that repaired but if i add any kind of bass
    and start to crank it up the mids go crazy to were you get that
    thud or crack sound. I had picked these up used so okay i will
    replace the mids. Ordered new ones from polk ($48.00 each)
    and still the same thing. I could beat on my R50s more before
    they carry on. So if i use the resistor and connect it at the
    binding post that will afect the mid also?
    Help jerry
    Main- GTP-500II,GDC-600,GFA-555II and energy C-500s
    Basement-Audiosource pre/tuner,GFA-545,Onkyo
    DX-1400 and RTI10s
    Garage-GTP-450,onkyo M-282 and R50s with RTi55
    drivers and X-overs.
    My baby 18' V-king Mod VP with a merc 2.4 BP.
    KTM 620 Supermoto
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited September 2008
    Some thing bad is seriously wrong with your RTI10's from damage somewhere.. might not be working sinking more money into them.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited September 2008
    Let me tell you about my other problem with the 10s.
    The one mid woofer had a problem the spider came seperated
    from the cone. Had that repaired but if i add any kind of bass
    and start to crank it up the mids go crazy to were you get that
    thud or crack sound. I had picked these up used so okay i will
    replace the mids. Ordered new ones from polk ($48.00 each)
    and still the same thing. I could beat on my R50s more before
    they carry on. So if i use the resistor and connect it at the
    binding post that will afect the mid also?
    Help jerry

    Have you tried talking with Polk customer service? They are the best in any business. Adding a resistor as you have talked about is probabley not a good idea and you may be better off doing a well planned mod to the x-overs. Other than the folks here the guys at Sonic Craft who manufacture Caps are real helpful too. Phone 501-620-4444 or soniccraft.com
    Just trying to help ya out
  • hydrostream
    hydrostream Posts: 549
    edited September 2008
    As far as polk C/S no help they said maybe i'm over powering them
    well went through that tried all my amps and even my onkyo 805.
    C/S said they may have been dropped. I know they should take
    more then i'm giving them. I have to turn the bass way down or
    i get that thud sound. With my RTi8s i was able to get more bass
    out of them. I just can't give up on this its starting to piss me off.
    One thing i'm happy about is my $30.00 wharfedales kick **** and
    so should these 10s.
    jerry
    Main- GTP-500II,GDC-600,GFA-555II and energy C-500s
    Basement-Audiosource pre/tuner,GFA-545,Onkyo
    DX-1400 and RTI10s
    Garage-GTP-450,onkyo M-282 and R50s with RTi55
    drivers and X-overs.
    My baby 18' V-king Mod VP with a merc 2.4 BP.
    KTM 620 Supermoto
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited September 2008
    your speakers are jacked from some kind of damage... sorry I can't be of more help... but something ain't right with them towers.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: