Connecting my zune dock to my 1.2TLS

tugboat

Just kidding!

What I'm really looking for is a way to try out different brands/types of speaker cables without having to purchase them (until I find the ones that work best). I would need two 15' runs with either banana or spades.

Also, is there a one-stop shopping site for all the components needed to rebuild my XOs? Even if they cost more than buying from multiple places. I figure time and postage should make up for the difference.

Thanks!

heiney9

tugboat wrote: »

Just kidding!

What I'm really looking for is a way to try out different brands/types of speaker cables without having to purchase them (until I find the ones that work best). I would need two 15' runs with either banana or spades.

Also, is there a one-stop shopping site for all the components needed to rebuild my XOs? Even if they cost more than buying from multiple places. I figure time and postage should make up for the difference.

Thanks!

Unless someone would "loan" some cables I don't know anyway to try them. Perhaps some retailers have 30 day refund policy.

www.partsexpress.com

www.madisound.com

www.sonicraft.com

Are all good "one stop" places for XO parts

H9

tugboat

heiney9 wrote: »

Unless someone would "loan" some cables I don't know anyway to try them. Perhaps some retailers have 30 day refund policy.

www.partsexpress.com

www.madisound.com

www.sonicraft.com

Are all good "one stop" places for XO parts

H9

I was hoping there was a place that took deposits on cables so you could try them (as many as you like). Most places with return policies get upset if you use it too many times.

All those places listed carry Solen (SP) caps? If I'm not mistaken, those are the recommended replacements?

heiney9

tugboat wrote: »

I was hoping there was a place that took deposits on cables so you could try them (as many as you like). Most places with return policies get upset if you use it too many times.

All those places listed carry Solen (SP) caps? If I'm not mistaken, those are the recommended replacements?

Parts Express carries Solen. They are one among many recommended. Depends on how far up the chain you want to go. Solens are a nice budget alternative for less expensive Polks. If you have SDA's I personally recommend Sonic Caps, they are worth the extra money.

Also be sure to replace the resistors with Mills or Bennic non-inductive; they are in the signal path and replacing them really improves things.

H9

tugboat

heiney9 wrote: »

Parts Express carries Solen. They are one among many recommended. Depends on how far up the chain you want to go. Solens are a nice budget alternative for less expensive Polks. If you have SDA's I personally recommend Sonic Caps, they are worth the extra money.

Also be sure to replace the resistors with Mills or Bennic non-inductive; they are in the signal path and replacing them really improves things.

H9

Well if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right. I'll look for the Sonic Caps and the resistors you mentioned. Is it safe to assume I'm looking at around $100 per XO?

heiney9

tugboat wrote: »

Well if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right. I'll look for the Sonic Caps and the resistors you mentioned. Is it safe to assume I'm looking at around $100 per XO?

For 1.2's? Probably a bit more like close to double.

Figure out what you need and go here as they are the only Sonic Cap seller I know of.

www.sonicraft.com

H9

tugboat

heiney9 wrote: »

For 1.2's? Probably a bit more like close to double.

Figure out what you need and go here as they are the only Sonic Cap seller I know of.

www.sonicraft.com

H9

You're missing a "c" from the link.

I just priced out the GEN1 caps and it comes to about 130.00 per XO (give or take a few bucks). Of course that's not including the resistors I'll have to get as well.

You wouldn't happen to know if 750pf is .0075uf?

Face

Leave out the 750pf's, you don't need them. It's been covered here a few times...here's one example of them being removed. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71045&highlight=bypass

tugboat

Face wrote: »

Leave out the 750pf's, you don't need them. It's been covered here a few times...here's one example of them being removed. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71045&highlight=bypass

So are they in line with the signal path and I just leave them out without replacing with a jumper of sorts? What about the poly switches? Do they just get left out or do I jumper their positions? I never play very loud and never even near distortion, so I feel pretty safe removing them.

Thanks!

Face

Yes, just leave them out, no jumper need.

As for the Poly Switches, since you're using a receiver, I wouldn't.

tugboat

Then I should at least replace the switches, right? If so, what exactly am I looking for and where? To me it just looks like a smiley face transistor of sorts.

Face

tugboat wrote: »

Just kidding!

What I'm really looking for is a way to try out different brands/types of speaker cables without having to purchase them (until I find the ones that work best). I would need two 15' runs with either banana or spades.

As mentioned before, borrowing cables is going to be the only free way. Check this out: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67455


If you buy used, the losses are minimal if you decided that you don't like them.

Check out Audiogon first, then here: http://www.usedcable.com/

tugboat wrote: »

Then I should at least replace the switches, right? If so, what exactly am I looking for and where? To me it just looks like a smiley face transistor of sorts.

They're available from Polk.

Yours may vary in color from those shown below. They can be either a mustard or blue color.

tugboat

Okay, a question on the resistors to be replaced. If the original value is 11.5 and the Mills replacment is 11, can I also get a .5 and wire them in parallel to get the 11.5 value? Also, the Mills replacments are rated at 12 watts. Is this sufficient for the 1.2TL XO?

Sonicaps doesn't have a 13.5 cap, so should I get a 12 and 1.5 and wire them in parallel as well?

Thanks again. I know most of this information is floating around, but I want to make sure I don't start grabbing the wrong information out of search results.

Face

As long as you're within 10%, you should be ok.

So a 11ohm resistor and 13uf capacitor, both being within 5%, would work fine.

tugboat

Face wrote: »

As long as you're within 10%, you should be ok.

So a 11ohm resistor and 13uf capacitor, both being within 5%, would work fine.

Glad to know. Will make it easier to put them all together on the board. I have some pics I got here last year from another member that did the upgrades and the replacment caps are much larger than the orginals. However, they used Solen, so I don't know how the sizes between them and Sonicaps differ. We'll see. I'll be placing my order with them tomorrow or Friday.

Thanks!

tugboat

I'm sure you're getting tired of all my questions, but I have another....

I've never pulled out the XO on my 1.2TLs before. Is there anything I need to know? Look out for? Will the thing try and fall out once the last bolt is out, or will it hold in place? Will the gasket be stuck to the speaker or XO or both? Don't want to damage it.

Thanks

F1nut

You'll have to do the leg work, but there is a company that let's you rent cables.

tugboat

Lasareath wrote: »

Hey Tugboat,

Have you looked at this post: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53970&

There's a lot of very good information there.

As per the crossover plates. Basically you want to unscrew 6 of the screws leaving one on top and one on the bottom.

Then press on the crossover plate and use your thumb to hold up the bottom edge to prevent it from spinning. when you are sure you have a good hold on it remove the last two screws.

The crossover plate and crossover is pretty heavy and will come right off. you should hold onto to it and keep it as straight as possible. Once the screws are all off you'll have to pull it away from the speaker about an inch and then tilt it a little to work the crossover out.

There are two molex connectors you will need to disconnect from the crossover board.

And that's it. you just don't want it to spin out of control so that it doesn't screw up something on the crossover or have the edge of the crossover plate scratch the front panel of the 1.2tl

Good Luck!!

Sal

Thanks! That was the thread I remember reading a while back, but for some reason couldn't find it. I figured the XO wouldn't hold itself in place once the screws started coming out. I'll get an extra pair of hands or use some 2" blue masking tape to hold it until all screws are out.

I'm borrowing my brother's cap tester, so I'll post some results of the current caps on Sunday. Will be interesting to see their values after 17 years.

Thanks again

ben62670

Even if the cap values are correct it doesn't mean they will sound good.
BTW I saw that you were using Monster XP speaker wire, and AR IC's. Those two items are about the crappiest cables out there. I had both of them:o

tugboat

ben62670 wrote: »

Even if the cap values are correct it doesn't mean they will sound good.
BTW I saw that you were using Monster XP speaker wire, and AR IC's. Those two items are about the crappiest cables out there. I had both of them:o

The only time the ARs get used is with my cassette deck (very rare), otherwise all others use optical (DVD, Media center, CD). The XP cable sounds better than the Original Monster Cable I was using ( I think it was 10ga). That and changing the IC over to a single XP run sounded better than the original IC.

I'm looking for better wire for the 1.2TLs and CSi5 center, but will leave the sides and rears with the XP. I want the center to get the same wire as the fronts since it is important to match the closely for movies.

ben62670

Take a hard look at AQ Type 4. Its real cheap, and I think its one of the best bang for the buck speaker wires out there;) Sorry about being blunt. Been there done that. I wasted a lot of time with decent gear, and missed out on a lot.
Ben

tugboat

ben62670 wrote: »

Take a hard look at AQ Type 4. Its real cheap, and I think its one of the best bang for the buck speaker wires out there;) Sorry about being blunt. Been there done that. I wasted a lot of time with decent gear, and missed out on a lot.
Ben

Is it worth giving Blue Jeans Cables BJC Twelve White (5000UE) (White jacket, 12 AWG) a try? I can get three 15' runs for $27 and reuse my banana plugs.

I'll go check out the AQs you mention as well.

Thanks!

ben62670

I have found solid conductors better than stranded in the low to moderate price cables. Check out the flea market here, audiogon, and ebay. Take your time, and get a good deal;)
Ben

ben62670

Here is a link to the plain Jane type 4 with no fancy jacket, but the same wire as the terminated pretty stuff.
http://www.musicdirect.com/product/72909
This stuff is easy to use bare, and is prettty cheap.

tugboat

ben62670 wrote: »

I have found solid conductors better than stranded in the low to moderate price cables. Check out the flea market here, audiogon, and ebay. Take your time, and get a good deal;)
Ben

I guess I must have missed something reading the BJC site. Those cables I mentioned are stranded? Guess I should go back and read it all again.

To start my journey with the first step, I'm going to order three 15' runs of the Belden stuff and go on from there. It's only a $30 purchase and will give me something to compare to my XP wire. After a month or so, I'll pick up the same lenghts of the AQ type 4 ($180 for same amount) you mentioned and compare them to the Belden.