SDA 2A advice - binding post replacement

MrPlum
MrPlum Posts: 3
edited December 2008 in Vintage Speakers
I've had my SDA 2A's for I think about 22-23 years or so and I'm still quite happy with them. Recently I had to move them -- just a couple of miles -- in the back of a pickup truck. I didn't realize a friend was going to be so "helpful" as to grab a speaker himself instead of one of the lighter items. He laid the top half down on its back onto a blanket and then slid it into the truck bed. Well I think some of you already know what happened. The binding posts are not flush with the rear of the speaker, but stick out a bit and were sheared off... I was aware of this danger and would not have laid them on their backs, but I wasn't about to get upset with a friend for trying to help. I just miss listening to them!

I have no experience working with speakers or electronic equipment, but figured this should be pretty simple even for me. My apologies if my questions are repeats or if the information is easily available to a better searcher, but I'm hoping one of the experts/enthusiasts around here could help me out a little:

(1) Best place to buy new binding posts, and are they pretty much generic or will I be faced with a ton of choices and need to specify a certain type?
(2) The stuff that covers them on the inside looks like hot glue or something, do I just peel it away, and should I apply something similar after replacing the posts?

They're gone:
DSC_3324b.jpg

Inside:
DSC_3320b.jpg
Post edited by MrPlum on
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Comments

  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited August 2008
    Welcome to Club Polk Mr Plum,,sorry to hear about the binding posts.Now if you would like to replace them with the originals,,I have a pair that you can have,,,and yep,, it's hot glue,,, peel it off,, replace binding posts,, hot glue em again(ensures a airtight seal),, and you are good to go,,if you want to upgrade,, there's Cardas,Vampire,,etc,, good luck and Welcome aboard,, stick around,,lot's of good people here. :)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    www.Partsexpress.com
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Boywonder
    Boywonder Posts: 225
    edited August 2008
    I also have a couple of pairs of stock Polk binding posts that you can have if you send me your address.

    If you want to upgrade there are plenty of choices; I've been using the gold Bennic hex posts at madisound, I think that they are $1.90/ea and are a nice upgrade for little $$.

    If you pick up new upgraded ones, you may have to drill the holes in the terminal cup a little larger, and if you buy single posts somewhere make sure you order some red ones and some black ones.
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  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited August 2008
    You should also check out the eichmann cable pods.At VH audio, http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-speaker.html#EichmannCablePod
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited August 2008
    Thats a warm Welcome to Club Polk!
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited August 2008
    Welcome to the club Mr. Plum and I better not see you behind me in the Library with the rope...

    You could replace the binding posts with upgrades, but I would take other members up on the replacements. Plus, then they will match the other speaker.
    Jake
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  • richta
    richta Posts: 26
    edited December 2008
    Greetings all,

    Same issue, posts were accidentally removed via the vacuum cleaner.

    I have since purchased two pairs of BPGS-25G from parts express.

    Are they suitable?

    Will room temp Elmer's do the trick or is hot glue necessary?

    Thanks in advance,

    richta
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited December 2008
    What kind of vacum? :eek: I prefer hot glue when replacing binding posts,,I've never tried Elmers,,good luck,I think that the goal is to get a good lasting airtight seal around them (replacements) .
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,739
    edited December 2008
    Yeah, Elmer's isn't going to cut it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited December 2008
    Hot glue guns and glue sticks are dirt cheap at most craft stores. Just make sure it doesn't drip all over. I heard it doesn't feel too great on your skin either. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,739
    edited December 2008
    I heard it doesn't feel too great on your skin either.

    Hehe....you heard right.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited December 2008
    burns like hell,,then gets all stringy;)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,739
    edited December 2008
    LOL......you've been there too, eh George!?!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • richta
    richta Posts: 26
    edited December 2008
    I think hot dripping candle wax is what you're looking for.*

    Any thoughts on the posts I have purchased?
    Here's a link:
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1250

    *And I thought this site was going to be all about audio stuff.
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  • bsoko2
    bsoko2 Posts: 1,449
    edited December 2008
    Face wrote: »
    Hot glue guns and glue sticks are dirt cheap at most craft stores. Just make sure it doesn't drip all over. I heard it doesn't feel too great on your skin either. :D

    Make sure you have your pants on.

    Bill
    My 2012 HT Room - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416077/bsoko2-new-ht-june-2012
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  • richta
    richta Posts: 26
    edited December 2008
    Are these posts the "right" ones for replacement?

    They were purchased at parts express.BPGS-25G.

    Here is a link:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1250

    Thanks in advance.

    richta
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2008
    anonymouse wrote: »
    The rear portion of those looks like it may be too long. Buy these instead: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1150

    I used those exact ones on my Monitors and they fit perfectly (with a little widening of the post hole :D). They work very well and are a great low price alternative.

    091-1150_s.jpg
    Jake
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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2008
    Would you still be able to retain the factory speaker lugs instead of soldering ?
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited December 2008
    anonymouse wrote: »
    Elmer's might not cut it, but bathtub sealing silicone probably would.

    I used silicone to seal some outdoor antenna terminals and it caused SERIOUS corrosion on them.:eek:YMMV;)
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  • dudeinaroom
    dudeinaroom Posts: 3,609
    edited December 2008
    anonymouse wrote: »
    Elmer's might not cut it, but bathtub sealing silicone probably would.

    If you go that route, make sure you leave the cups off the speakers a couple of days for the silicone to set up. If not you run the risk of a leak, or corrosive fumes in you speakers. Hot glue on the other hand is good to go in about a minute.

    good luck,
    dude
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,739
    edited December 2008
    Some better choices, http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost.htm

    Do not use bathtub sealing silicone.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2008
    Hilti brand expanding foam.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2008
    fbm211 wrote: »
    You should also check out the eichmann cable pods.At VH audio, http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-speaker.html#EichmannCablePod

    A terrible suggestion for a $10 problem.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited December 2008
    Sorry about that.I see the price went WAY UP since the last time I checked.More than double.If I may ask ,is there a problem with those eichmann pods? I was thinking of getting a set for my 2Bs.Soniccraft has em for less than half what VH is asking.
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited December 2008
    On second thought and closer examination, it appears that the hot glue is primarily used to secure the fasteners (nuts) on the post ends and by extension, prevent the whole assembly from rotating...and to seal the three holes above the posts. I don't believe any significant amount of air could escape from the binding posts, and it seems that the hot glue doesn't completely cover the white/ground assembly anyway,therefore it's not sealed by the glue. I think that the anti-rotation aspect is what was intended, so to use a substitute for hot glue might be a bad move,epoxy WOULD work great IF you never want the ability to remove them easily again. $.02:)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,739
    edited December 2008
    According to the folks that designed and built the speakers, the hot glue was used to seal the area. The reason the the glue doesn't cover the SDA interconnect area is that once the plug head is inserted, it is air tight. When I replace the binding posts, I always hot glue the SDA interconnect area as well.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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