Is this what I'm looking for? (SMS-1 Related)

millerman 3732

Or do I need to keep working?



Right around 85hz to 120hz there was a big hole that why all the paddles are wadded up there and it's still alittle kinky. The best I can tell every thing looks to be within + or - 3db's. what do you guys think. Any one got any more setup tips?

BTW I was setting at angle when I took the picture that's why the right side seems to slope down so much

Gaara

Whats with the drop off at 30hz? This is with your SVS right?

Also, some people don't like it perfectly flat like that, some prefer a house curve, I know I do.

tryrrthg

what is your xover set at? if it's 80hz then you probably shouldn't be boosting, you're just fighting the xover.

millerman 3732

Gaara wrote: »

Whats with the drop off at 30hz? This is with your SVS right?

Also, some people don't like it perfectly flat like that, some prefer a house curve, I know I do.

Well the graph and the numbers aren't exactly in line, the slope is right at 25hz, which is, I guess you would say the factory tune for my SVS, also the angle of the photo is alittle off.

When you say house curve do you boosting the middle frequency's?

millerman 3732

tryrrthg wrote: »

what is your xover set at? if it's 80hz then you probably shouldn't be boosting, you're just fighting the xover.

My mains are set at 80hz but the sub is now set at 120hz, like I said there was a big hole right at 80hz to right around 120hz, I tried several different x-over setting with the mains and the sub but this is the only thing I have gotten to work so far.

engtaz

Have you mains go down to 60 and see if that does it.

engtaz

tryrrthg

millerman 3732 wrote: »

My mains are set at 80hz but the sub is now set at 120hz, like I said there was a big hole right at 80hz to right around 120hz, I tried several different x-over setting with the mains and the sub but this is the only thing I have gotten to work so far.

the big hole at 80 hz was likely because of the crossover and phase issues between the mains and sub because of the xover. I would play with the phase settings.

Is the graph shown of your sub and mains playing together or is it just the sub response?

millerman 3732

Is there a problem with what I have now? isn't the ultimate goal to get the response curve as flat as possible?

millerman 3732

tryrrthg wrote: »

the big hole at 80 hz was likely because of the crossover and phase issues between the mains and sub because of the xover. I would play with the phase settings.

Is the graph shown of your sub and mains playing together or is it just the sub response?

Its the sub and mains together.

I have tinkered with phase some, its set at 60 now and the polarity is +, it helped some but the only way I could get it to flatten out was to raise the low pass filter to 120hz

engtaz

it's could be your room doing it so making the adjustments you are already making is compensating for the room. Your going about it the right way.

engtaz

Gaara

millerman 3732 wrote: »

Well the graph and the numbers aren't exactly in line, the slope is right at 25hz, which is, I guess you would say the factory tune for my SVS, also the angle of the photo is alittle off.

When you say house curve do you boosting the middle frequency's?

Negative, a house curve compensates for the ear's lack of sensitivity to lower frequency sounds. Put simply it gives you perceived flat bass response instead of actual flat bass response. With a house curve you generally see a slow as you go deeper, with the start of the rise varying. I personally like a house curve starting at 40hz.

As for the 25hz slope, it must be the way you tuned it. I have mine completly sealed w/20hz tune and have strong bass down to 20hz w/ slow roll off after that. I have attached a graph of my room response with my SVS PB2+ (older version of yours) and Gallos. You can kinda see a house curve, not a true one and not very flat bass since I don't use EQ currently. A real house curve would gradually increase with 20hz or so being the strongest point. With mine it jumps at ~45 hz and gradually gets stronger.

millerman 3732

Gaara wrote: »

Negative, a house curve compensates for the ear's lack of sensitivity to lower frequency sounds. Put simply it gives you perceived flat bass response instead of actual flat bass response. With a house curve you generally see a slow as you go deeper, with the start of the rise varying. I personally like a house curve starting at 40hz.

As for the 25hz slope, it must be the way you tuned it. I have mine completly sealed w/20hz tune and have strong bass down to 20hz w/ slow roll off after that. I have attached a graph of my room response with my SVS PB2+ (older version of yours) and Gallos. You can kinda see a house curve, not a true one and not very flat bass since I don't use EQ currently. A real house curve would gradually increase with 20hz or so being the strongest point. With mine it jumps at ~45 hz and gradually gets stronger.

I don't know if your sub is built like mine but mine has a dial with three settings and 2 port plugs that correspond with each setting, 16hz (2 ports plugged), 20hz (1 port plugged) and 25hz (0 ports plugged), right now I have 0 ports plugged and the dial set to 25hz, so I feel like the the slope is right where it should be for the way it is setup right now, I might play with the settings and plugs to let it dig a little deeper later on,

As for the house curve I might set one of the preset settings in the SMS like your talking about, with the lower end boosted alittle, tomorrow and see how I like it, thanks for the tip!

millerman 3732

Alright, here's my second go at this. Since moving this big **** sub from where it is now isn't an option, I tried a couple of other things, First I plugged two ports on my SVS and tuned it down to 16hz, not really to help the null just because Gaara made feel like I wasn't really using my sub. Second I added a second smaller sub a 12'' Infinity, I can't remember the model number, too see if that would help any. Then I tried bringing down the other frequencies to match the null and raised the volume on the SMS-1 to match my receiver, to get the head room many people speak of and to keep from stacking the frequencies and here is what I came up with.



Sorry for the blurry image

Ron Temple

millerman 3732 wrote: »

Alright, here's my second go at this. Since moving this big **** sub from where it is now isn't an option, I tried a couple of other things, First I plugged two ports on my SVS and tuned it down to 16hz, not really to help the null just because Gaara made feel like I wasn't really using my sub. Second I added a second smaller sub a 12'' Infinity, I can't remember the model number, too see if that would help any. Then I tried bringing down the other frequencies to match the null and raised the volume on the SMS-1 to match my receiver, to get the head room many people speak of and to keep from stacking the frequencies and here is what I came up with.



Sorry for the blurry image

House curves aside, some prefer it flat. That looks very good to me and better, you're not boosting or bunching the Q like the first attempt(which sucks the headroom out of the sub amp). If the blend sounds good, I'd keep it that way.

Gaara

millerman 3732 wrote: »

Alright, here's my second go at this. Since moving this big **** sub from where it is now isn't an option, I tried a couple of other things, First I plugged two ports on my SVS and tuned it down to 16hz, not really to help the null just because Gaara made feel like I wasn't really using my sub. Second I added a second smaller sub a 12'' Infinity, I can't remember the model number, too see if that would help any. Then I tried bringing down the other frequencies to match the null and raised the volume on the SMS-1 to match my receiver, to get the head room many people speak of and to keep from stacking the frequencies and here is what I came up with.

Looks much better. Before you were missing a lot below 25hz which is very important for HT. Our subs are almost the same. I lied before, I only have 2 ports plugged, I plugged the 3rd with acoustic foam but it cut output to much. In my room 16hz filter works best, doesn't cut output that much and gives the best response.

Ern Dog

Millerman,
That curve looks pretty dang flat to me. I'm interested in knowing how the rig sounded before the EQ adjustments compared to after the EQ. To me that is what matters most.