Jeff from soniccraft/suggestions for 2bs

fbm211
fbm211 Posts: 1,488
edited June 2008 in Vintage Speakers
I recommend: Qty. Brand. Part. Price. Sub-total 3 Cardas CCGG-S $25.50 $76.50 2 Sonicap 0.1uF/200V G2 $2.70 $5.40 2 Sonicap 12uF/200V G1 $19.60 $39.20 6 Sonicap 20uF/200V G1 $27.25 $163.50 2 Mills MRA-12 2.7 Ohm $3.50 $7 1 Cardas 24' QE Solder $6 $6 Total less shipping is $297.60. You might also consider substituting the Sonicap Platinum for the0.1uF/200V G2. However, the 0.1uF/400V Platinum is $29 each. This substitute would bring your total to $350.20. Best regards,Jeff My question: what are the 6 sonicap 20uF/200V for? I also emailed him back about adding 2 5.8uF for the TL mod. The above is a copy of the email he sent me and as you can see it didnt copy very well.
SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
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  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,341
    edited June 2008
    These are the relatively same recommendations Jeff gave me a couple of years ago. I have the SDA-2's (no A or B suffix) so there are a few differences in values, number of caps, etc. Look here

    Are you a student up there in State College? Faculty? Or just a resident?
    Carl

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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited June 2008
    The 6 20uf's are to replace the 2 20uf's and 2 40uf's.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited June 2008
    Forget the .1uF bypass cap all together. You don't need it and it will make the top end sound un-natural. Instead of six 20uF caps, get two 20uF's to replace the stock 20's. Then, get two 10uF's and two 30uF's to replace the stock 40's. You mount the 30 vertically and mount the 10 under the board. There isn't enough room to mount a 20 under the board and you can't mount two 20's in place of the 40 on top of the board.

    Look up pics that have been posted to see what I'm talking about if you don't understand what I'm saying. If you can't find the pics, email me and I'll send you some.

    Why did you email him back about adding the 5.8uF caps? If you want to do the TL upgrade, you simply order them. Of course, you have to change the tweeters to the RD0198-1 to complete the TL upgrade.

    Important
    There is a trick to adding the 5.8uF cap. You mount it in the C5 position and drop the lead closest to P3 in the C5 hole, but you have to drop the other lead into the hole marked H otherwise it will not complete the circuit.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited June 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    Forget the .01uF bypass cap all together. You don't need it and it will make the top end sound un-natural.

    + 1,000
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