bidding on eBay

Norm Apter
Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
edited June 2008 in The Clubhouse
I'm wondering if any patient person with experience bidding on Ebay can explain to me a little bit how the process works.

I've never bought anything on eBay before. I know that some items have a "buy it now price" but the item in question does not have this option; it is bidding only. The item (Adcom GFP-750) usually goes for about $650-$700 or more on Audiogon. I see that the item has an "End Time" of June 5, 7pm, five days from now. I'm a little confused about the difference between automatic and actual bids. Right now, it only shows "actual bids" (the highest being $229).

I'm just wondering what sort of strategy I should use. Or is rather simple and straightforward just deciding on the maximum amout of money that I am willing to spend from the get go and placing my bid based on that?

Finally, do you guys feel as comfortable buying from a sellers (with lots of positive feedback) on eBay as you do buying from sellers on Audiogon?
2 Ch.
Parasound Halo A23 Amp
Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

HT
Denon 2808ci AVR
polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
Post edited by Norm Apter on
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Comments

  • TKOTED
    TKOTED Posts: 29
    edited May 2008
    You basically have two bidding strategies. The first being, go ahead and place the bid for the most that you are willing to spend on the item. With this option, you may be out bid at the last moment by a nominal amount. Secondly, you can attempt to "bid snipe". This is a tactic whereby you wait until the last few seconds before the auction ends and place you maximum bid. The best way to try and judge a sellers reputation is by looking at his sellers feedback. Check to see if the seller has a history of selling mid to high priced items that have had positive feedback. Do not bid on an item that is listed as "the last time I powered it up it worked, but being sold as-is". Good luck!
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2008
    Don't bid till the last 10 seconds. Make sure you enter your bid, and then click bid. It will ask to confirm your bid. Do this in the last seconds. Again don't bid till the very end. If you bid any earlier then others will see an interest in the item, and bid higher. Also there are programs that can bid for you at the last second.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Gadabout
    Gadabout Posts: 1,072
    edited May 2008
    Some of ther Buy it Now's are only there till someone places a bid. After that the Buy it Now disappears. Seller controls that.

    Ben is correct on the bidding information. However, if I'm one of the first bidders I will put in a low ball bid, just so it easier to see in My Ebay.

    I have rarely had any issues buying stuff off of Ebay. I have only bought a couple items from Audiogon. No issues.

    Scott
    Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid. ..... Frank Zappa
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited May 2008
    OK, thanks for the advice. But I'm still confused as to whether this is blind bidding or is everything transparent. In other words, now (5 days before the end time) I can see 9 bids, the highest of which is $229. If I monitor this item throughout the week, can I expect to actually *see* the bids rise up to the ballpark amount of what this particular item in this particular condition is worth.

    For purely hypothetical purposes, lets just say that a few minutes before end time, the highest showing bid is $450. Now lets say that I've decided that the most I would want to spend on this item is $610 (just to throw a number out there). If I follow Ben's strategy of waiting until the last second, should I still go ahead and bid the maximum amount I'm willing to bid ($610) -- even though there's a sizeable gap between $450 and $610 -- with the idea that others are also probably "bid sniping" (i.e. waiting until the last second just like me).
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • Gadabout
    Gadabout Posts: 1,072
    edited May 2008
    I can see 9 bids, the highest of which is $229

    Actually, thats what the bid is at now. The high bidder might have $650 bid now. If you make a bid (below $650), say $400. It will rachet up his bid to $400 + the next minimum bid ($2.50?). So after your bid, he would still be high bidder but now at $402.50

    So your scenario works. Bid the max you want to spend in the last minute or so. If no one outbids you, you'll have the Adcom. I would also hazard a guess, that there are many more folks watching this item than bidding. Most will try and bid snipe at the end.

    The other method I use is bid once and bid early. I put in what I'm willing to pay (usually a low ball price). If I get out bid no big deal. I have gotten some real good deals this way. With the interest in this amp showing already, I doubt you will be able to do that.

    Hope that hels a bit more.
    Scott
    Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid. ..... Frank Zappa
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2008
    You don't pay the max you bid. Just bid at what you are willing to pay. If your max bid is $10,000, and the highest bidder bids $337 you end up paying $340.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited May 2008
    If I follow Ben's strategy of waiting until the last second, should I still go ahead and bid the maximum amount I'm willing to bid ($610) -- even though there's a sizeable gap between $450 and $610 -- with the idea that others are also probably "bid sniping" (i.e. waiting until the last second just like me).

    Even though $450 is the max bid showing, for all you know, that bidders max bid is $650, and you will lose anyways. People always like to say I lost by only $2, but you really have no way of knowing what the max bid was, only what it took to beat yours.

    So always bid the max you are willing to pay. I find if an item has a lot of interest, sniping really does you no good. Everyone places the bid at the last second, the highest bidder wins, you don't have time to place another bid when sniping.
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited May 2008
    Norm Apter.. remember this isn't the ONLY Adcom GFP-750 pre amp out there.. there will be others. patience is KEY

    good luck.. hope you win it.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • pietro944
    pietro944 Posts: 720
    edited May 2008
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    Even though $450 is the max bid showing, for all you know, that bidders max bid is $650, and you will lose anyways. People always like to say I lost by only $2, but you really have no way of knowing what the max bid was, only what it took to beat yours.

    So always bid the max you are willing to pay. I find if an item has a lot of interest, sniping really does you no good. Everyone places the bid at the last second, the highest bidder wins, you don't have time to place another bid when sniping.

    no offense...but,you're wrong.I have a 310,100% rating on ebay.All of this is from buying.I'm retired and disabled,so I am able to spend 16-24 hrs a day on the internet,if I choose.

    Like most buyers on ebay.I snipe.I wait untill the last 60 seconds,until I determin what I want to bid.
    I almost never lose....really never.
    Sometimes,I bid early...just to see what the interest is.
    If it's some thing I want,I never lose.

    Polk Direct has put up about 40 monitor 70's in the last 3 months,the avg sale price is about $380.I got mine for $306.Check it out,my ID is blue0700.

    Anyone who needs help with ebay,I'm there for you...no one's better
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited May 2008
    whatever you do Norm, DO NOT GET INTO A BIDDING WAR ON EBAY! it's not worth it.. and you feel bad because you win the item, but overpaid.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited May 2008
    OK, this helps a lot. And Sal, thanks for sharing the link to the post that outline your procedure. That helps a lot.

    I think, from all of your points, I can cobble together a strategy. The key, in the end, is really to know what I would feel comfortable paying for this item. Danger Boy, you're absolutely right. I just got a new amp (my first "separate") and now I have it hooked up to a Yamaha AVR (serving as the PRE). It works just fine. In sum, I'd like to get a separate PRE, but I am in absolutely no rush because what I have now is already a big improvement over what I was listening to a week ago. In fact, there are a few on Agon right now but they seem a bit overpriced. I have the time to wait it out until something more affordable becomes available -- whether its through Ebay or Agon.

    Thanks for all of your tips.

    Norm
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • SBrown712
    SBrown712 Posts: 202
    edited May 2008
    Make sure too that you figure the shipping costs as part of your total price. One time I wanted something that a lot of people were selling. One guy had his shipping about $20 higher than anyone else so no one was bidding on his. I was able to get in and buy it for less than half the other sellers even with the higher shipping costs.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited May 2008
    I think I would have gotten some bad feedback for that one...
  • dcmeigs
    dcmeigs Posts: 708
    edited May 2008
    danger boy wrote: »
    whatever you do Norm, DO NOT GET INTO A BIDDING WAR ON EBAY! it's not worth it.. and you feel bad because you win the item, but overpaid.

    Danger Boy nailed it here. Ebay wants you to bid with your ego. They call the sucessful bidder the "winner". They want you to feel like you just won big at the craps table, no matter if you could have bought the item downtown for less. Decide what you want to bid, place that bid at esnipe and be happy if you are sucessful and just as happy if you are not.
    The world is full of answers, some are right and some are wrong. - Neil Young
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,213
    edited May 2008
    Norm Apter wrote: »
    OK, thanks for the advice. But I'm still confused as to whether this is blind bidding or is everything transparent. In other words, now (5 days before the end time) I can see 9 bids, the highest of which is $229. If I monitor this item throughout the week, can I expect to actually *see* the bids rise up to the ballpark amount of what this particular item in this particular condition is worth.

    For purely hypothetical purposes, lets just say that a few minutes before end time, the highest showing bid is $450. Now lets say that I've decided that the most I would want to spend on this item is $610 (just to throw a number out there). If I follow Ben's strategy of waiting until the last second, should I still go ahead and bid the maximum amount I'm willing to bid ($610) -- even though there's a sizeable gap between $450 and $610 -- with the idea that others are also probably "bid sniping" (i.e. waiting until the last second just like me).

    I've had the most success and least frustration using a sniping program (e-snipe). You can basically set it and forget it (put in the max you're willing to pay). If the price is bid higher than your maximum before the end of the auction you have chance to "reset" your snipe bid if you want. (e-snipe notifys you by e-mail your max bid has been exceeded)

    Ebay also offers something call "bid assistant" not sure how it works but perhaps reading the description will give you some valuable information. Most if not all auctions are won/lost in the last 30 seconds; that's why I use a program to manage my bids for me.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited May 2008
    I hate those bidders who have no patience and bid the item way up with 3 or 4 days left. What do they think they are accomplishing? Wait until the last 30 seconds, put in the highest bid you are willing to pay, hit the button with about 5 seconds left and if you win it for less it's just icing on the cake. And if you don't win, you gave it your best shot for what you were willing to pay. Sit back and wait for the next one.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited May 2008
    Keiko wrote: »
    Also, and this is just my opinion due to a bad experience, avoid sellers that don't accept paypal as a payment option.

    As for paypal fees on eBay, am I correct to assume that buyer pays all? Is it a fixed 3.5% of the item's final purchase price?

    I just want to take into consideration the total amount I'm willing to spend(i.e. item + shipping + applicable fees) when arriving at a final figure.
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited May 2008
    Anyone who needs help with ebay,I'm there for you...no one's better

    Brag much? Looks to me like most of what you have purchased is "Buy it Now" CD and DVD's, congratulations, oh ebay master.
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited May 2008
    Norm Apter wrote: »
    As for paypal fees on eBay, am I correct to assume that buyer pays all? Is it a fixed 3.5% of the item's final purchase price?

    I just want to take into consideration the total amount I'm willing to spend(i.e. item + shipping + applicable fees) when arriving at a final figure.

    I've never paid any Pay-Pal fees when buying. It's all on the seller. If they do try to charge you fees, that is against Ebay policy.
  • pietro944
    pietro944 Posts: 720
    edited May 2008
    Norm Apter wrote: »
    As for paypal fees on eBay, am I correct to assume that buyer pays all? Is it a fixed 3.5% of the item's final purchase price?

    I just want to take into consideration the total amount I'm willing to spend(i.e. item + shipping + applicable fees) when arriving at a final figure.

    no,the seller pays the paypal credit card fees as well as the listing fee for the auction.The seller does not get charged the paypal fee if the buyer pays either via their paypal balance or their bank account.They DO get charged if the buyer uses a Credit Card.
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited June 2008
    Well, it looks like I'll be bidding on my first Ebay item later today.

    I've read through the responses and I just have one more question. What if there are no other bids and I win by default of making the only bid? Do I get it at the price of my maximum bid or at the starting bid set by the seller or somewhere in between?

    For example, say the starting bid (established by the seller) is $200. Now, say I've decided that the maximum that I am willing to pay is $250. So, with no other bids apparent I enter $250 as my maximum bid. And lets say, for hypothetical purposes, that no one else bids on this item. Now, in this scenario how much would I be locked into paying for the item? (I want to enter my maximum amount because there could be others who are waiting to bid snipe and I wouldn't want to take a chance of someone else getting it at say....$215 or $230).
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited June 2008
    you get the item at the minimum starting or reserved price the seller posted.. so if the item is listed for $200 starting, and you bid say $250, but no one else bids.. then you only pay $200, which is the starting or minimum price the seller is willing to let the item sell for.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited June 2008
    Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes, regardless of whether I am successful or not.
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,213
    edited June 2008
    Norm Apter wrote: »
    Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes, regardless of whether I am successful or not.

    Are you bidding on your own or using a biding program? I highly recommend e-snipe if you are serious about winning the auction. Take every advantage you can. It's free for the first 30 days and it's super simple to use and ultra secure.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • bikezappa
    bikezappa Posts: 2,463
    edited June 2008
    As a caution, I recently bid on and won an item that was described as used, but entirely functional and money back guaranteed. I had seen the item when it first went up for auction and won it with a Snipe. When I received the item, it was broken, not functional, and clearly junk. When I asked the seller for my money back, he said no because the ad had been changed during the auction period to reflect a change to non functional and not guaranteed. So, I was out the money because when I rechecked the ad, at the bottom of the listing, I could see the change. The rule is that within three days of the end of the auction, any part of the ad can be changed. So moral of the story, check the ad one more time before the auction ends!
  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited June 2008
    Just never EVER mention paypal to George Grand.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,213
    edited June 2008
    As bike states, check the auction often for changes. If you add the item to your watched list I believe they notify you if there are any changes to the add, including canceling and re-listing.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited June 2008
    Thanks for the tips. Guess what? I got it. Well, I was the only bidder and paid so as long as he accepts my payment (I didn't have any feedback previously) it should be mine.

    By the way, the item was a Parasound Halo T3 tuner (the unit that goes with my Halo A23 amp that I currently have and a P3 pre that I'll be shopping for soon). I got it for the starting bid, $299, plus $25 shipping. I'm pretty excited!
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited June 2008
    The only way this could have happened is if there were NO BIDS on the item. The description of the item on ebay auction cannot be updated otherwise. The seller will have to either amend the listing (i.e. add text and pictures at the bottom of already existing description) or blow all the bids away and then update the listing (not sure if it's even possible nowdays).

    So basically you set up your bids with e-snipe to bid within a few seconds of the auction end, but there were no bids up to a certain point and the seller was able to change the listing.

    Lesson learned? Always (re)read the description before bidding (if there are no bids).

    bikezappa wrote: »
    As a caution, I recently bid on and won an item that was described as used, but entirely functional and money back guaranteed. I had seen the item when it first went up for auction and won it with a Snipe. When I received the item, it was broken, not functional, and clearly junk. When I asked the seller for my money back, he said no because the ad had been changed during the auction period to reflect a change to non functional and not guaranteed. So, I was out the money because when I rechecked the ad, at the bottom of the listing, I could see the change. The rule is that within three days of the end of the auction, any part of the ad can be changed. So moral of the story, check the ad one more time before the auction ends!
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