Polk DX12's Video

only126db

Two 12's 200watts total

eloplayspolo

coolio

only126db

I had taken these out of my truck and switched them with a 10" that was hitting harder and cleaner then got a hair and built ported boxes for them and they came to life...:D

black magic

Glad to hear that you like them.

Jstas

:rolleyes:

zingo

Nice video.

only126db

Jstas wrote: »

:rolleyes:

Well says you are a Polk expert so why roll your eyes...You know it sounds good for DX's with 200 watts in a truck cab...

RuSsMaN

I didn't see any speakers, just some kid dancing around - and coolio? Seriously?

Jstas

only126db wrote: »

Well says you are a Polk expert so why roll your eyes...You know it sounds good for DX's with 200 watts in a truck cab...

It's a video of a kid holding a camera pointed at a mirror that gets vibrated loose enough to droop. The subs don't "sound great" there is a ton of port noise and I'm just not impressed overall.

I know what "sounds good" really is and that's not it.

I posted the rolling eyes to avoid saying what I think and offending your "sensibilities". Since you had to post the childish challenge along with the mouthing off, I decided to oblige 'cause I'm a little bored at work and feeling punchy today. But don't worry, everyone else seems to have your back so I'm sure I'll be lambasted for my opinions as always.

I have a DX12 with 200 watts that was in the trunk of a Taurus. It worked great and sounded quite good for what it was. It was in a sealed box of approximately .85 cubic feet and had plenty of punch for music. I replaced with with an MM12 and 300 watts. Which was also quite effective and not recommended for a ported enclosure either.

If "sounds good" to you is just loud then DX12's are not the way I would go. I probably wouldn't use any Polk sub to go loud. Polk subs are clean and accurate and that's where they excel. If you want big boom, you're not going find it at Polk Audio.



Besides, you posted another thread where you question the work of the engineers that designed the sub just because you found favorable results with a setup that is not recommended. A Polk Audio Customer Service Representative with decades of experience in the car audio world told you that porting the enclosures for DX subs was not advisable and why it wasn't advisable. Then you went and did it anyway and you're looking for validation.

Your subs are on borrowed time at this point dude. They will break. It's not a matter of if but when. And honestly, since the sealed enclosure is not there to help limit the excursion of the woofer and aid in movement changes, your system impedance is probably sky rocketing at your tuning point and that over drives and will likely damage your amp too.

Have fun with it champ.

eloplayspolo

^^^^^

haha. lol

I love people

thumpin07

Jstas wrote: »

It's a video of a kid holding a camera pointed at a mirror that gets vibrated loose enough to droop. The subs don't "sound great" there is a ton of port noise and I'm just not impressed overall.

I know what "sounds good" really is and that's not it.

I posted the rolling eyes to avoid saying what I think and offending your "sensibilities". Since you had to post the childish challenge along with the mouthing off, I decided to oblige 'cause I'm a little bored at work and feeling punchy today. But don't worry, everyone else seems to have your back so I'm sure I'll be lambasted for my opinions as always.

I have a DX12 with 200 watts that was in the trunk of a Taurus. It worked great and sounded quite good for what it was. It was in a sealed box of approximately .85 cubic feet and had plenty of punch for music. I replaced with with an MM12 and 300 watts. Which was also quite effective and not recommended for a ported enclosure either.

If "sounds good" to you is just loud then DX12's are not the way I would go. I probably wouldn't use any Polk sub to go loud. Polk subs are clean and accurate and that's where they excel. If you want big boom, you're not going find it at Polk Audio.



Besides, you posted another thread where you question the work of the engineers that designed the sub just because you found favorable results with a setup that is not recommended. A Polk Audio Customer Service Representative with decades of experience in the car audio world told you that porting the enclosures for DX subs was not advisable and why it wasn't advisable. Then you went and did it anyway and you're looking for validation.

Your subs are on borrowed time at this point dude. They will break. It's not a matter of if but when. And honestly, since the sealed enclosure is not there to help limit the excursion of the woofer and aid in movement changes, your system impedance is probably sky rocketing at your tuning point and that over drives and will likely damage your amp too.

Have fun with it champ.

i agree with you full heartedly if he wants LOud boom he can get some 80 doller volfehags that way when they blow hes only out 80 bucks

Jstas

thumpin07 wrote: »

i agree with you full heartedly if he wants LOud boom he can get some 80 doller volfehags that way when they blow hes only out 80 bucks

Hold on a minute, don't go putting words in my mouth or making assumptions.

There are plenty of subs out there that cost much more than $80 and will perform quite well in a vented enclosure. Mainly because they are designed that way.

And actually, I was mistaken because the new DB series subs are designed to be able to work in a vented or sealed enclosure.

A vented enclosure doesn't mean it's cheap nor does it mean the sub is junk. It is just a different way of getting to the same goal. With a vented enclosure, you don't need as much power to reach the same SPL. However, the frequency at which your vented enclosure is tuned will truncate response. The response falloff below the port's tuned frequency is rapid. The reason why is because a few frequencies below the port's tuned frequency, the air in the port rapidly becomes out of phase with the woofer. When it hits 180 degrees out of phase, the woofer and port are canceling each other out and response levels drop like a stone.

Sealed enclosures don't typically run in to that problem. The thing about sealed enclosures is that they usually have many more positives than tradeoffs. The response is wide and flat and digs very deep in most cases. Into the mid 20 Hz range at least for most subs. The enclosures are often less than half the size of the vented enclosure for the same sub. The sealed enclosure can handle more power too. The tradeoffs are power requirements are high and you don't really get much of a chance to exploit the resonances of the subwoofer to gain SPL. Can you go competing for SPL with a sealed enclosure? Sure! It's just gonna be much more difficult to get high pressure levels out of it. Often it requires multiple drivers of a fairly large size and big power. Big power meaning 10kW or higher to compete in the highest classes. But to compete where most amateurs are, you'll need 2,000-2,400 watts to play at the same level as a guy with a tuned, vented enclosure running 1400-1600 watts. Sensitivity levels of your sub and resonances and such are all very important at that point.

thumpin07

well so i stand corrected