Amp for GNX104s

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited December 2002 in Car Audio & Electronics
Ok, actually I have two questions:

1) ideas about amps for two GNX104s
2) size and type of box for the two GNXs

Santa got me a couple subs for Christmas. I'm now looking at installation. They will be in an extended cab Chevy Silverado. The truck has dual exhaust, so at times it can get a little noisy in the cab.

My initial idea was two of the sealed .65 cu.ft. truck enclosures from QLogic, laying on the back floorboard firing upward, under the rear seat. Would like to have an amp siting under the rear seat on the transmission hump between the two subs.

After reading a few post, I'm thinking maybe I should consider a ported box, or building one myself. I need something I can remove quickly, for when we ride somewhere with the dogs. Any ideas about the box, and an amp to push the subs with would be appreciated. I'm not looking for outrageous power from the amp. I figure since the subs are in the cab with me, 100 watts each should be fine. I just need something to get them over the sound of the tailpipes.

thanks,
ted
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Comments

  • ted_mmz
    ted_mmz Posts: 4
    edited December 2002
    thanks Kim,
    (i forgot to login before posting the question, newbie mistake)

    I've been looking at the Kenwood amps, but I've had sales people tell me they sound a bit "hollow". Surprisingly, it's alway this much more expensive amp over here that would work much better. Why is that?? Why it it never 'this amp that's $100 dollars less, plus it's currently on sale' that would work so much better.

    I'll have to take some measurements under the rear seats. The 1.25 ported box might be a tight fit. I will look into it though.

    Thanks for the ideas,
    ted
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited December 2002
    if your subs can be wired to produce a 4 ohm load parallelled, i'd say get an mtx 8302 -- its 440ish x 1 at 4 ohms, its small as hell, and its a good solid amp that you can get on ebay for 220 bucks.

    if they're single 4 ohm coil -- then the mtx 6304 is also a small amp that's like 220 on ebay, and it'll do about 225 x 2 bridged with the car running (its rated at 300 at 14 volts but it'll never get to that... its 150 x 2 at 12 volts is more true.

    you may also want to look into bazooka mono class D amps -- their 500d is a bit overrated, only does like 400ish and its fairly inexpensive (300 retail i think - less on the net / ebay).

    JBL 300.1 is underrated, and you will probably get about 175 per sub if you go with it --- its a mono amp - runs like 150 ebay -- 299 in stores i think.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • ted_mmz
    ted_mmz Posts: 4
    edited December 2002
    Thanks for the ideas guys. I should have mentioned, the receiver in the truck is factory. It's the "upgraded" stereo package from Chevy. I don't know if it has a subwoofer output or not (haven't checked yet), but I'm not really holding my breath on it.

    I'll probably be running speaker level inputs. I was looking at just running them straight through with one side from the left balance and one from the right balance. I know, I know...at sub levels, stereo sound isn't that detectable, but it's straight forward and easy.

    Is there a way to bridge an amp, take the signal from stero to mono, but actually merge the l/r balance inputs so that the two different signals are combined into one?

    And thanks PBD. I'll start looking into the amps you suggested. Work is dead today, so I need to kill some time.

    ted
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited December 2002
    regarding bridging amps and merging signals... i dont think you can really do that once the signal is amplified -- so it has to be done on the RCA end -- i've seen it done by splicing R and L rca's together, but what actualy happens is you get cancellaion instead of reinforcement -- you get a blended signal but its actually weaker -- surprising but if you think of it, it makes sense.

    however, some of the good mono sub amps "claim" to merge the signals.. how i'm not sure, if its even true i'm not sure... it really shouldn't make a difference.. i'm runnin a bridged sub off of half of a 1.8 volt preout in my grandfatehr's truck-- when you split a pre-out you get the same voltage but half the current -- so 1.8 volts but only half the current of the output... kind of crappy in its design , but in reality it doesn't cause me any grief.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge