What kinda gas do you buy for your car/truck?

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Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2008
    GaryZ06 wrote: »
    Same here Face.I hope the C5 is running like an animal.....What do you think of the ZR1? I would love to get one BUT I will not pay over MSRP.
    If I had the cash, I would jump on it.

    The C5 is good. I blew out my neck and back last year pretty bad though, so it looks like I won't be racing or stomping out Z06's anytime soon. :D

    Swing by more often bud.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • GaryZ06
    GaryZ06 Posts: 317
    edited April 2008
    Face wrote: »
    If I had the cash, I would jump on it.

    The C5 is good. I blew out my neck and back last year pretty bad though, so it looks like I won't be racing or stomping out Z06's anytime soon. :D

    Swing by more often bud.
    I hope you feel better so you can get out there and try to stomp some Z's....I'll be here more
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2008
    ok..I didn't read the whole thread...shoot me now...but I only run what I need to. Recomended rated fuel. My 05 Dodge 1500 HEMI quad 4x4 uses regular. The 01 Dodge 2500 deisel runs..well..deisel. The 89 BMW 740i runs Mid Grade. I only run what is spec'd for my rides. Recomended only. Forget what they say about any advantages in running a higher octane gas. Forget about what you hear from friends about running NAME brand fuels. All fuels are refined to the same spec's and each seller of fuels adds his own BS to the mix. The cheapest gas is the same as the most expensive gas ...less the additives. And quite frankly all the additives are a sales pitch for the fuel. After 20 something years in the automotive industry and 10 of those as a Master Technician I can honestly say the brand of fuel makes no difference in the long run. That is said with the notion that all regular and suggested maintinance is followed. The octane rating that should be used is what has been recommended by the manufacturer. The oil is another story. The oil that is recomended is NOT the best for the ride in most cases. The rated oil for the rides are based on the oil that was used during the testing of the ride for gas mileage. Take the 5w-10 or whatever is shown on the maintinance schedule is there to keep the ride within the tollerable limits of the posted fuel consumption...I could go on...but who is really reading this anyway?

    Chuck
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,204
    edited April 2008
    Jstas wrote: »
    Not true.

    I'd go in to details but it's been posted several times before. If you don't use premium in a car the requires premium you will lose performance, gas mileage will suffer drastically and you might even destroy your engine.


    In my truck, if I use anything less than 92, I have to add octane booster otherwise, the engine will just stop running because the computer cannot safely back out enough timing to keep the engine from detonating. Then again, my effective compression ratio is above 10.0:1 which is pretty high for the street.

    This is true. With my chip installed I need to run 93 octane because the fuel and timing maps are much more aggressive than the stock chip. I'm running 10.5:1 compression and it will detonate in the summer on 89 octane under hard load. This is with a knock sensor on each cylinder. A computer (ECU) can only compensate for so much. Stock car calls for 91 octane but you could get away with 89.

    This is just my personal experience and I don't need any car guys to tell me I'm wrong or full of ****. I've owned the car for a long time and I know what makes it run the best based on the tried and true mods I've added.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2008
    heiney9 wrote: »
    This is true. With my chip installed I need to run 93 octane because the fuel and timing maps are much more aggressive than the stock chip. I'm running 10.5:1 compression and it will detonate in the summer on 89 octane under hard load. This is with a knock sensor on each cylinder. A computer (ECU) can only compensate for so much. Stock car calls for 91 octane but you could get away with 89.

    This is just my personal experience and I don't need any car guys to tell me I'm wrong or full of ****. I've owned the car for a long time and I know what makes it run the best based on the tried and true mods I've added.

    H9
    I agree, coming from someone who has melted his share of pistons. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited April 2008
    When travelling local I purchase from where ever is cheapest from a station I know (there are a couple I do not purchase at due to knowing people who have had "issues" getting gas from there.)

    When travelling - I purchased from a brand name station (shell, mobil, bp, chevron - whatever but from a national chain) and whatever is cheapest (if I have the option).
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  • Deadof_knight
    Deadof_knight Posts: 980
    edited April 2008
    Best place to buy gas is a very busy station. They are more likely too have less or no water and garbage in the gas.
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