Cheap Screws???
polkyphil38
Posts: 447
Hey folks hope all is well. I finally got some of my ht assembled but ran into a little problem. While putting the screws that came with my RTi speakers into the wall one of the heads broke off. 
:( Has this happened to any one else here? I plan to go to Lowes tomorrow and get some better #10 wood screws. That way, I can get my FXiA4's on the side walls. It looks like I will NOT need my new RTi4's and as such plan to sell them asap. There just is not enough room for 7.1. Thus, I prefer a diffused soundfield so I will sell the RTi4's instead of the FXiA4's. Those darn screws just tick me off..........LOL!!!!! 
:p
:( Has this happened to any one else here? I plan to go to Lowes tomorrow and get some better #10 wood screws. That way, I can get my FXiA4's on the side walls. It looks like I will NOT need my new RTi4's and as such plan to sell them asap. There just is not enough room for 7.1. Thus, I prefer a diffused soundfield so I will sell the RTi4's instead of the FXiA4's. Those darn screws just tick me off..........LOL!!!!! :p The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses.
Post edited by polkyphil38 on
Comments
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Predrill some holes smaller than the screw size. That should keep them from breaking.
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I like to rub the screw threads really fast on my forearm prior to using them.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Yeah, that is a very good idea. I am not much of a carpenter.....:p:p. I plan to but some shorter #10 screws and try them. What size do you suggest for smaller screws for pre-drilling? Also, what length do you believe will be sufficient as the ones that came with my RTi speakers seem to be a bit long and too thin if you ask me.maximillian wrote: »Predrill some holes smaller than the screw size. That should keep them from breaking.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
polkyphil38 wrote: »Yeah, that is a very good idea. I am not much of a carpenter.....:p:p. I plan to but some shorter #10 screws and try them. What size do you suggest for smaller screws for pre-drilling? Also, what length do you believe will be sufficient as the ones that came with my RTi speakers seem to be a bit long and too thin if you ask me.
It's hard to say. If you look at the screw you can see a solid shaft surrounded by the spiral parts. I would use a drill bit that is a bit smaller than the solid shaft. A bit could be anywhere from 90% of the size to 50% depending on how hard of wood you are inserting them into. For wall studs, I would pick somewhere around 75%. Does that make sense?
I haven't hung speakers before so I can't recommend a length. Sorry. -
What are you putting the screws into? If it's drywall, you'll want to use plastic anchors. You can buy the screws and properly sized anchors together from any hardware store. In the case of a set using #10 srcews, the drill bit size for the anchor hole will be 1/4". If you're **** into wood or another solid matter, use a #8 drill bit for a #10 screw.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I don't own a drill. Wouldn't matter because I am NOT very good with one. Just use good old fashion hard work........LOL!!!! Thanks for the info.maximillian wrote: »It's hard to say. If you look at the screw you can see a solid shaft surrounded by the spiral parts. I would use a drill bit that is a bit smaller than the solid shaft. A bit could be anywhere from 90% of the size to 50% depending on how hard of wood you are inserting them into. For wall studs, I would pick somewhere around 75%. Does that make sense?
I haven't hung speakers before so I can't recommend a length. Sorry.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
What is the benefit of doing so? I am not very handy with things like this......LOL!!!!I like to rub the screw threads really fast on my forearm prior to using them.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
polkyphil38 wrote: »...Also, what length do you believe will be sufficient as the ones that came with my RTi speakers seem to be a bit long and too thin if you ask me.
Assuming your going into studs--Add 1/2" to 3/4" to whatever length you go with-That's the avg thickness of wallboard. For example, it wouldn't be a good idea to use a 1" screw where only 1/4" would be in the actual stud-follow?
I'm not privy to the length of the screws that came with yours or how heavy they are, but if you're predrilling into a stud, I would think 2 to 2 1/2" inches would probably be solid enough--you'll know-the screw shouldn't wiggle-it should feel solid. 1 1/2" (50-50 length in drywall-stud) will probably be good as well-just feel how solid it feels.____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
Not sure if I screwed into a stud or not. Everything was going fine until I reached a certain point. At that point, things became very hard to turn and finally the head broke off. Going to borrow a set of needle-nosed pliers and get them both out. I live in a Mobile Home.What are you putting the screws into? If it's drywall, you'll want to use plastic anchors. You can buy the screws and properly sized anchors together from any hardware store. In the case of a set using #10 srcews, the drill bit size for ther anchor hole will be 1/4". If you're **** into wood or another solid matter, use a #8 drill bit for a #10 screw.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
In that case, you do not have plaster walls, so you really need to use anchors. Buy a drill and the right size bit, it'll save you a lot of grief.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
polkyphil38 wrote: »What is the benefit of doing so? I am not very handy with things like this......LOL!!!!
Some rub the screw into a bar of soap first to give it a sort of lube-sometimes helps getting a screw into the stud without having to torque it too much or breaking. It helps if you're not predrilling.____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
Very interesting. Looks like I have a lot to learn. Never been handy with things like this. Heck, I been known to burn water...........LOL!!!!! :eek::eek:Assuming your going into studs--Add 1/2" to 3/4" to whatever length you go with-That's the avg thickness of wallboard. For example, it wouldn't be a good idea to use a 1" screw where only 1/4" would be in the actual stud-follow?
I'm not privy to the length of the screws that came with yours or how heavy they are, but if you're predrilling into a stud, I would think 2 to 2 1/2" inches would probably be solid enough--you'll know-the screw shouldn't wiggle-it should feel solid. 1 1/2" (50-50 length in drywall-stud) will probably be good as well-just feel how solid it feels.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
polkyphil38 wrote: »Not sure if I screwed into a stud or not. Everything was going fine until I reached a certain point. At that point, things became very hard to turn and finally the head broke off. Going to borrow a set of needle-nosed pliers and get them both out. I live in a Mobile Home.
Its likely you are in a stud, then. Highly unlikely you'll encounter much torque in drywall alone-the hole will strip first.
Its good practice, when hanging heavy items to use a stud. If it requires two horizontal mounting points/screws, its best to put each in a stud. If the item you're hanging is not wide enough (typically studs are 16" apart), then use one stud and an anchor for the other.
If I remember correctly, mobile homes probably have 1/2" wallboard (as opposed to 3/4")-even when I use my handy dandy Stud Finder I will usually hammer a small, but long nail first to see if I hit the stud or open space.
Oh yeah, avoid areas that might contain AC wires (usually directly above or below an outlet or switch). But its a good idea to use a stud finder (or separate tool) that can detect AC voltage behind the wall to be safe.____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
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Hard soap makes a good dry lubricant for self-tapping/wood screws. Just draw the screw across a bar of hard soap; doesn't take much.
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Want to thank everyone here for all of their suggestions. It is much appreciated. Just getting over some food poisoning and as such is only about half staff. Still kinda weak but getting better.The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses.
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Just wanted to post an update. I managed to get my FXiA4's up on my walls today. The one to my left is about 1/2" closer to the front wall than the one on my right. It is hardly noticeable but had to do it that way. I guess the studs in my wall did not line up perfectly. There is also a closet door that opens close to the one on my left so it works out real good. By moving it a 1/2" closer allows the door to open all the way w/o hitting the speaker. I will try to take a few pics tomorrow and post them. Thanks once again to every one that offered me some advice. You guys ROCK!!!!!!!!
:) The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses. -
I thought you were supposed to hold the screws in your mouth prior too putting them in ? hahaha
spit, soap and if you dont pre drill youll still break them off
Wood screws do this often .....in my experience ....:cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "
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Well, that is kinda like sticking your head up a cow's a$$ and taking a good look at a T-Bone whereas I much rather just take the butcher's word for it.....LOL!!!!!!!Deadof_knight wrote: »I thought you were supposed to hold the screws in your mouth prior too putting them in ? hahaha
spit, soap and if you dont pre drill youll still break them off
Wood screws do this often .....in my experience ....:p The way one uses a product is a much more SIGNIFICANT factor than which product(s) he uses.
