My new Tannoy HPD-385A Cabinets and Crossover Mods

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Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2010
    A single cap is better than multiple, especially if the values are not split evenly. I used a single 17uf, then 18uf later on when I re-engineered the entire crossover.

    The first time I upgraded them, I used Solen caps. I then tried Sonic Caps, Claritycap ESA(SA on woofer), then Claritycap MR throughout.

    The Mills resistors didn't make much of a difference over stock, but they gave me a piece of mind since I don't know if the originals were abused, etc... I've since upgraded to Duelund resistors, which are an upgrade to Mills and the OEM resistors.

    Here's the current crossover.
    HPD-385A%20Crossover.jpg

    FYI, here's an excellent Tannoy group: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/tannoy/
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2010
    The appearance is a little odd, but I still wouldn't mind having a pair.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • d.tyrer
    d.tyrer Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I figured out the big cap was the added values of the three, and ordered Sonicaps before I read this reply. Oh well.. I was gonna go with the Mundorf oil caps, but couldnt justify spending more on caps than I paid for the entire speaker setup, enclosure included. Buddy was nice enough to throw in a bryston amp, but it seems left channel is dead. All in all, I paid $150 for everything, and so far put $200 into refoaming the drivers, $300 into custom solid maple cabs based on the arden blueprints (red stained "antiqued" around the edges, and matte black front and back with red covers), and another $130 in caps and resistors... I think I did well and plan on keeping tese babies for a while. Cant wait to hear em.

    I'll post pictures when all is done. Excited.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    d.tyrer wrote: »
    I'll post pictures when all is done. Excited.
    Looking forward to it!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • d.tyrer
    d.tyrer Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    Got my order from sonicraft today, and the mills resistors look wierd... they are all the same size, and about 1/2 the length of the originals, and the one pictured in your modded crossovers. Did I get the wrong ones?

    Here's a photo of what I ordered.

    IMAG0162.jpg?t=1281017278

    Mills MRA05F
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    Those would probably be fine for the the high frequency circuit, but I'd pick up a 12 watt for the woofer.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • d.tyrer
    d.tyrer Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    Ok. So I picked up my tannoys from the local speaker repair shop. The guy told me he had done a number of these in the past with great success, and also ordered the original tannoy surrounds for me. As soon as I saw the "finished" product I knew something was wrong. The surrounds dont look evenly spaced around the cone, and he got glue everywhere... on the cone, all over the foam, then in other spots there is no glue and I can fit my finger between the cone and the surround. I put them in the cabinets, and on a 35wpc amp, the coils bottom out at less than 60% volume. At lower volume, they sound OK, but the bass response is somewhat lacking, and mid rage is nasal at best.

    Any advice? Should I take them back and tell him to fix them, or cut my losses and track down someone more reputable to redo them?
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    Get your money back. The only way to correctly repair a rotted out HPD, is to replace the entire cone. Lockwood Audio has a hard edge surround upgrade, but it's probably not cheap.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • d.tyrer
    d.tyrer Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I paid the guy $250. The speaker wasnt rotted, but the foam was starting to tare. They never bottomed out before. Now they do. Did HE screw them up beyond repair?
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    Yes, time for new cones, which is the right way to repair them anyway. See if you can get a refund and use that towards a proper repair.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • michaelvv
    michaelvv Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Hi Face.

    Do you have a diagram on the x-over for your tannoy hpd-385a..
    We are 5 different persons in denmark , which are owners of these
    speakers and would like to try the x-over.

    I have mine build in a 300 Liter cabinet and i have done some tweaks but
    not as "proff" as yours...

    Best

    /Michael