Amp for Sonosub

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seeclear
seeclear Posts: 1,237
edited March 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I'm wanting to make a sonosub in the near future, probably a 15" driver in a
24" tube. Would one of Zingo's amps work for that?

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65292

Also, what driver would anyone recommend? I am a total newb at this, but I like doing woodwork kind of projects and from what I have heard, one of these will rock the house. It would be primarily for HT, which may be obvious.

Thanks for any advice, in advance.
"Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."
Post edited by seeclear on
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  • Refefer
    Refefer Posts: 1,280
    edited March 2008
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    Usually Sonosubs use obscene amounts of power, and most of the drivers are 4 ohm nominal. I'd look at a used Crown Amp for lots of juice on the cheap.
    Lovin that music year after year.

    Main 2 Channel System

    Polk SDA-1B,
    Promitheus Audio TVC SE,
    Rotel RB-980BX,
    OPPO DV-970HD,
    Lite Audio DAC AH,
    IXOS XHA305 Interconnects

    Computer Rig

    Polk SDA CRS+,
    Creek Audio 5350 SE,
    Morrow Audio MA1 Interconnect,
    HRT Music Streamer II
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited March 2008
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    I would like to say my Audiometric amp would work great since it can do 4 ohms all day :D. First of all, 250wpc aint shabby for the price or sound. And second, it's perfect for subs since it is not a common ground. (That's what I've been using it for) Or, you could get a DVC subs and run both leads off one amp. Just my biased .02.

    Any of these drivers would work:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-469

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-190

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=293-622 :D
    Jake
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  • Refefer
    Refefer Posts: 1,280
    edited March 2008
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    If you do grab the AudioSource amp, make sure you get a driver with dual voice coils: I can find no specs that state it's stable to 4 ohms when bridged, and the last thing you want to do is fry both driver and amp. You'll be getting 160 watts running it in stereo, but it can at least run the driver.

    I can't find any info on the Audometric, so there you go :D
    Lovin that music year after year.

    Main 2 Channel System

    Polk SDA-1B,
    Promitheus Audio TVC SE,
    Rotel RB-980BX,
    OPPO DV-970HD,
    Lite Audio DAC AH,
    IXOS XHA305 Interconnects

    Computer Rig

    Polk SDA CRS+,
    Creek Audio 5350 SE,
    Morrow Audio MA1 Interconnect,
    HRT Music Streamer II
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2008
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    I used an Adcom GFA-555 bridged for a nice 850 watts clean.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • Refefer
    Refefer Posts: 1,280
    edited March 2008
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    ben62670 wrote: »
    I used an Adcom GFA-555 bridged for a nice 850 watts clean.

    How many adcoms do you have at this point? 10? 20?
    Lovin that music year after year.

    Main 2 Channel System

    Polk SDA-1B,
    Promitheus Audio TVC SE,
    Rotel RB-980BX,
    OPPO DV-970HD,
    Lite Audio DAC AH,
    IXOS XHA305 Interconnects

    Computer Rig

    Polk SDA CRS+,
    Creek Audio 5350 SE,
    Morrow Audio MA1 Interconnect,
    HRT Music Streamer II
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2008
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    Down to 5
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • seeclear
    seeclear Posts: 1,237
    edited March 2008
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    zingo wrote: »
    Or, you could get a DVC subs and run both leads off one amp. Just my biased .02.


    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-190

    [

    This is kind of what I was thinking about. Split the LFE output from the receiver to input into both L & R channels of the amp, then wire each channel to one voice coil on the woofer. That could work? Ben, what do you think of that, as the resident sonosub guru? Thanks.
    "Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2008
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    I don't know about guru, but that woofer was my second choice. For HT a sono is great. For music mine I set at 40hz when I use it. It would certainly put out plenty of bass. I would just drive it with one amp, and wire the coils in parallel.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited March 2008
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    Sorry to confuse earlier; the Audiometric is not bridgeable. The reason I said that it is good for subs is that I like to save my best sounding amps for my SDAs. However, this is good sounding and non-common gound, thus can't be used for SDAs and great for subs!
    Jake
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2008
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    seeclear wrote: »
    This is kind of what I was thinking about. Split the LFE output from the receiver to input into both L & R channels of the amp, then wire each channel to one voice coil on the woofer. That could work? Ben, what do you think of that, as the resident sonosub guru? Thanks.
    While Im not Ben nor a Guru but Ill throw my $.02 in,if need be you can hook up a 2 channel amp in this manner.For an ams you may also want to consider the Behringer EP2500.It is an inexpensive
    pro amp but works great for sub woofing.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited March 2008
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    Refefer wrote: »
    If you do grab the AudioSource amp, make sure you get a driver with dual voice coils: I can find no specs that state it's stable to 4 ohms when bridged, and the last thing you want to do is fry both driver and amp. You'll be getting 160 watts running it in stereo, but it can at least run the driver.

    I can't find any info on the Audometric, so there you go :D

    The amp is 2 ohm stable, but no power specs are provided for that load. So yes, it is 4 ohm bridged stable.

    I also own this amp and love it.
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited March 2008
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    GV#27 wrote: »
    While Im not Ben nor a Guru but Ill throw my $.02 in,if need be you can hook up a 2 channel amp in this manner.For an ams you may also want to consider the Behringer EP2500.It is an inexpensive
    pro amp but works great for sub woofing.

    I was going to suggest the same idea just a different amp. Pro amps are great for subs. They gibve you alot of sound for alot less money. I personally would suggest the QSC RMX2450. I have one that runs two Yamaha 18" Subs 8ohms 500watts with ease and hits extremely hard at 4ohms 750watts. It can push a rated 2400 watts at 4ohms bridged. I think it is good for at least 2000 watts bridged because I have done it with a couple Cerwin Vega Earthquakes before.

    It runs about 6-700 for a new one. The Behringer is probably a pretty good amp also especially at its price point. I think it runs about 500 for one of them.
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