Replacing CD Laser

phipiper10
phipiper10 Posts: 961
edited June 2008 in Electronics
Anyone done this for a CDP? How would you describe the level of difficulty? I have no soldering experience.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich
Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin U2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC:T+A DAC 200 Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Infigo Method 6 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Cardas Clear Reflection SC/IC, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
Post edited by phipiper10 on

Comments

  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,430
    edited March 2008
    Very difficult. Without proper alignment tools and specs it's almost impossible. It's not like changing a light bulb.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
  • furball
    furball Posts: 234
    edited March 2008
    Is your old CD player a really expensive one? If it is a cheap one, then it is probably less hassle just to get a new CD player.
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited March 2008
    I doubt that it's a job for the average DIY'er. I guess perhaps if you've got a really good player and like a project-- My guess is it's not worth it, but that's only my guess. Have you checked availability on the part?
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,497
    edited March 2008
    What CD player are you looking at changing out? Some of them are very easy, some are very difficult. I've changed out the laser in a couple Marantz players that used the ubiquitous Philips VAM1201. It doesn't require any alignment, nor calibration, so it can be done with just a few wires to de-solder/re-solder.

    The real problem is on the units that are not self calibrating and require alignment. Those require special test discs and an oscilloscope to calibrate/align.

    Your best bet is to track down the service manual for your player and see what's involved.
  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 961
    edited March 2008
    Thanks for replies. Been so busy with work haven't really been back to spend any time here. Anyway this is for my Bada - what a bummer.

    I contacted Pacific Valve and they said they would send me the part - no charge. It's not here yet.

    In the mean time I used both a lens cleaning disc and alcohol/q-tip. Neither of those changed a thing. It does appear to be a weakening laser as it's struggling on what would seem to be the least reflective discs.

    The tray mechanism is philips.

    It's disappointing to have purchased a relatively expensive CD player and have something like this happen.

    Does this mean it's Chinese junk, I don't know but I do know we've had several much cheaper CD players and this has never happened before. Maybe just a fluke I don't know. I haven't found anything about this problem for other Bada owners.

    Thanks again for replies.
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin U2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC:T+A DAC 200 Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Infigo Method 6 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Cardas Clear Reflection SC/IC, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • Midnite Mick
    Midnite Mick Posts: 1,591
    edited March 2008
    I know that there is a Sony laser/transport that is in many high end players that have a high failure rate....so it may not be all that uncommon.
    Modwright SWL 9.0 SE (6Sons Audio Thunderbird PC with Oyaide 004 terminations)
    Consonance cd120T
    Consonance Cyber 800 tube monoblocks (6Sons Audio Thunderbird PC's with Oyaide 004 terminations)
    Usher CP 6311

    Phillips Pronto TS1000 Universal Remote
  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 961
    edited March 2008
    Thanks for saying so, of course the guys at PAcific Valve made it seem very common also. I should clarify that I don't think the Bada is junk but rather this is a disappointment. I've had it around 2 years I think and it has been flawless in every way until now.

    The sound quality is faaar superior to any of my other sources granted none cost as much as I paid for the Bada but the difference in sound quality has been well worth the price I paid.

    I'll be asking for advice if/when I lose my confidence in my ability to replace the laser .;)
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin U2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC:T+A DAC 200 Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Infigo Method 6 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Cardas Clear Reflection SC/IC, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited June 2008
    Phipiper -- what's the status on the laser replacement?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."