Basement Project - Ceiling

Serendipity
Serendipity Posts: 6,975
edited May 2009 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Like many of you know, I've been building my basement HT for a few months now and I'm up to the point where I've got to drywall the ceiling. Problem is, I don't know anything about ceilings!

I'm just not sure where to start with this one...

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
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Post edited by Serendipity on
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Comments

  • MillerLiteScott
    MillerLiteScott Posts: 2,561
    edited March 2008
    Run the drywall perpendicular to the 3/4"furring strips than are nailed to the bottom of the joists. They should be laid out to break on an 8' length of drywall.
    I may suggest running a 2" screw into each furring strip where they cross under the joist. Use drywall glue and 11/4" screws to attach the drywall.

    Scott
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    Is this something a kid like me can do?
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  • MillerLiteScott
    MillerLiteScott Posts: 2,561
    edited March 2008
    Yeah, But get some one to help lift and hold the sheets. I would also insulate your ceiling first and make sure you get IC recess light fixtures if you are putting in recessed lighting with insulation. There may be some more HT related products that you can use, my suggestions are based more on regular construction practices.

    Scott
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    Thanks,

    On a positive note, the old ceiling came down relatively easily. I will try to mount my 120+lb projector on the ceiling too, but that's another can of worms...

    I haven't thought about lighting, since there were already fluorescent lights in the ceiling before (I didn't remove them). I only removed the ceiling.
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2008
    Well first I would figure out where all your wiring will need to be, before the drywall goes up. Doing so later will just cause you a bigger headache. :)

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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    Yeah, I realized that since the ceiling is removed, it would be a great time to run speaker wire and stuff like that.

    Right now I have my speaker wire on the ground!
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  • fumoffu
    fumoffu Posts: 80
    edited March 2008
    I suggest running some conduit too. Just in case you need a new cable or need to change things or something.
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    fumoffu wrote: »
    I suggest running some conduit too. Just in case you need a new cable or need to change things or something.

    I guess I should, in the event I upgrade to a digital projector I would need a HDMI cable (right now only have component and RGBHV).

    Thanks!
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  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,780
    edited March 2008
    It will be almost impossible to pull an HDMI connector through the conduit. I would run that now, and anything else you think you may need, You can leave the extras tucked in the outlet box for now.
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    The thing is, only digital projectors use HDMI. The CRT projector that I have takes everything in RGBHV, so if you want to feed it an HDMI source you must use a video processor/scaler.

    So in this case, do you still think I should run HDMI anyways? Seems like a waste to me.

    In the meantime, I am planning on how to run my speaker cables through the ceiling BEFORE the drywall is up. Otherwise I will have a tough time routing the video and speaker wire later.
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  • kcarl
    kcarl Posts: 20
    edited March 2008
    Why not install a dropped ceiling? The killer with installing a drywall ceiling is the finishing work. If you do hang drywall, there are special lifts you can rent to hold to lift and hold the sheets up - not as expensive as they sound.

    Good luck
  • adam2434
    adam2434 Posts: 995
    edited March 2008
    From experience, I'd say run damn near every wire type possible, or leave provisions to do so down the road. You never know what you're going to need in the future.

    I know of folks using 2" PVC pipe as conduit to run future wires.

    I originally ran HDMI, component, and composite to my projector. Then, a few months ago I decided that I also wanted VGA for hook-up to a PC. That really didn't even cross my mind at the time I installed the projector. Fortunately, I had way to run VGA from the unfinished side of the basement, sliding the cable along main support I-beam to where I had access to the low voltage box that all the projector wiring is sent through. Big peace of mind comes from knowing that you can run cables post construction.
    5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
    2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
    2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    The other thing is, my system is currently a 2-channel HT (music + projector) and I don't think I will ever go with surround sound. But everyone I run into says wire the room for surround too.

    Is this overkill? I'm pretty sure that 99% I will stick with 2-channel system.
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    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • adam2434
    adam2434 Posts: 995
    edited March 2008
    appadv wrote: »
    The other thing is, my system is currently a 2-channel HT (music + projector) and I don't think I will ever go with surround sound. But everyone I run into says wire the room for surround too.

    Is this overkill? I'm pretty sure that 99% I will stick with 2-channel system.

    I say run it, at least the 2 surround channels for 5.1. Buy a spool of 14/2 in-wall speaker cable from partsexpress.com or htd.com. It doesn't cost that much. Even if you don't do surround, at least the wire will be there for the next person.
    5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
    2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
    2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
    2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
    Kitchen: Sonos Play5.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2008
    You will kick yourself later if you wanted surround speakers, why 2 channel if you're watching a projector? Seems 2 steps forward in video, 3 steps back in sound IMHO ;)

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    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
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    Electronics
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    You will kick yourself later if you wanted surround speakers, why 2 channel if you're watching a projector? Seems 2 steps forward in video, 3 steps back in sound IMHO ;)

    'cause our very own Trey (Vr3MxStyler2k3) is the one that got me hooked on 2-channel HiFi.
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2008
    What can I say Trey will also wake up one day also ;)

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    So you're saying run the wire? There goes more money :)
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    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • BAD ASP
    BAD ASP Posts: 361
    edited March 2008
    kcarl wrote: »
    Why not install a dropped ceiling? The killer with installing a drywall ceiling is the finishing work. If you do hang drywall, there are special lifts you can rent to hold to lift and hold the sheets up - not as expensive as they sound.

    Good luck

    I chose to go with a dropped ceiling for a number of reasons but most notably the access to all wiring, lighting and ease of installation and maintenance. I have also read that there are some new designs that hug your joists more closely. I started off with 8'4" and dropped mine to 7'8". This gave me 8" space to insulate and run wiring. MY 2c
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  • kingkip
    kingkip Posts: 401
    edited March 2008
    My basement looked exactly the same. I put up drywall and ran every cable imagineable, (I even ran component and HDMI to the front of the room just in case I wanted a display there) you never know and you'll kick yourself for not doing it now. A drywall lift cost me $35 to rent from lowes and if you ever want to call the people who are going to help you friends again it is money well spent. As for the projector mount I ran a chunk of 2x10 from the back wall to the middle of the room, to give myself leeway for installation and for future upgrades. Screw it in to the bottom of the joists and it will easily carry the load. If you are worried about it you could also use some metal brackets.

    My $.02, I hate drop ceilings. I don't like the way they look, I have had them rattle and they are no good for IB subs. The ease of cabling is appealing but not worth it to me.

    Drywall isn't that hard to do, just time consuming.
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    Thanks for the advice,

    I guess I am going to run every type of cable possible - to the projector HDMI, DVI, VGA, component, S-video, composite, and RGBHV.

    Then for the audio I will run a 50ft. subwoofer cable, speaker cables for a 5.1 or 7.1 setup, and an additional sub cable in case I want to move the sub.

    I'm still undecided as to how to do the ceiling though - some recommended a drop ceiling, but my bare unfinished ceiling is only 7ft. tall.
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2008
    I like the conduit idea also... This is why I ran 1 Cat5, 1 3 line phone cable, 6 AudioQuest RG6 cables for audio feeds out, 2 RG6 for OTA plus a feed up, 2 RG6 for satellite, 2 12gauge BlueJean cables for rear surround, I thought I had every cable ran possible. Another set of holes where for Plasma on wall, but this run is 4' in wall so no biggie, 1 HDMI, 1 Power. Well 4 months later wish to add S-Video to TV also, 1 IR blaster from whole house IR repeater, and 2 RG6 for Mpeg2 DVB satellite receiver. In short you never know what you will need in the future. ;)

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I like the conduit idea also... This is why I ran 1 Cat5, 1 3 line phone cable, 6 AudioQuest RG6 cables for audio feeds out, 2 RG6 for OTA plus a feed up, 2 RG6 for satellite, 2 12gauge BlueJean cables for rear surround, I thought I had every cable ran possible. Another set of holes where for Plasma on wall, but this run is 4' in wall so no biggie, 1 HDMI, 1 Power. Well 4 months later wish to add S-Video to TV also, 1 IR blaster from whole house IR repeater, and 2 RG6 for Mpeg2 DVB satellite receiver. In short you never know what you will need in the future. ;)

    Are you using C-band satellite?
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2008
    appadv wrote: »
    Are you using C-band satellite?

    No I now in business supporting C-Band, but I needed to move so I'm now in a HOA area which doesn't allow me to own a Big Dish. I'm adding Ku dish which will have a mover this has cause me to add 2 RG6's. The IR blaster is for the whole house audio but I'm adding video control of TiVo's throughout house.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2008
    Cool, that's an awesome setup!

    I always liked C-band satellite :)
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    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited April 2008
    I think I will just go with ceiling tiles or a dropped ceiling, the learning curve for working with drywall seems steep.
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited December 2008
    Drop ceilings vibrate something awful. You really don't want to do that.
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  • m00npie
    m00npie Posts: 697
    edited December 2008
    Lasareath wrote: »
    lay down 2 by 6's on their sides on the concrete floor, maybe I should liquid nails them down as well.

    Sal, take a look at the sub-floor squares that home depot sells now in the contractor section. It’s basically a 2’ x 2’ square of ¾’’ plywood with a rubber bottom. I have not personally used it so I have no idea of the cost. By using this, you’ll save an inch on the floor.
    Lasareath wrote: »
    I'd like to put 2 layers of sheetrock on the ceiling, so that will be around an 1" to 1.25"

    If it were me, I would insulate your floor joists really well. R19 is code I believe. If your joists are 2x8, use R19. If they are 2x10, you may get away with R30 but be careful about squeezing insulation and covering it with Drywall…. It’s not a good combo. Once Insulated, I would just use a single layer of 5/8 dyrwall.
  • m00npie
    m00npie Posts: 697
    edited December 2008
    unc2701 wrote: »
    Drop ceilings vibrate something awful. You really don't want to do that.

    I experienced this as well at my old house. Riveting the trouble areas helped but then the recessed lights became the noise maker. Although it‘s a pain in the **** to eliminate the noise, I still prefer it over drywall. Anything happens, or if new cable needs to be run, it’s easy to just pop the tile(s) out.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited December 2008
    Not sure what your ducts on the ceiling look like, but my last house ended up with all the duct-work being dry-walled, along with the main seating area of the HT being drywalled. There were a couple smaller areas where it made more sense to install a row of drop-ceiling. I also framed in 2 odd-shaped ends of the basement (one next to furnace and one next to water heater) and left the area behind these walls unfinished. That way, if needed, I could run extra lines to areas of the basement after the fact. Point is, if may make more sense to do a combo. of both. Maybe take some pics of the entire ceiling area and post them...