What crossover setting "range" ?
Ryder888
Posts: 37
Boston Acoustics sub (HP10HO) paired with Polk monitor 60's.
I've tried reading up on it and 80 seems the most popular. I currently have mine at 90. I did try 80.
My question is i can't really tell all that much difference. What am i changing by going up or down ?
I'm sure this is a dumb question, but i'm new to the subwoofer part
Thanks
I've tried reading up on it and 80 seems the most popular. I currently have mine at 90. I did try 80.
My question is i can't really tell all that much difference. What am i changing by going up or down ?
I'm sure this is a dumb question, but i'm new to the subwoofer part
Thanks
Post edited by Ryder888 on
Comments
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in your fronts.. i think going from 80 to 90, you prob aren't going to hear any difference. but try 40 or go up to 180 or 200 and you'll notice a difference then.PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
You probably wont tell the difference between 80hz and 90hz. It would have to be something more drastic, like 80hz and 40hz or 120hz.
What you are doing, going up and down, is cutting or adding bass above the xover setting you choose.
So at 90hz, the bass above 90hz will be sent to the speakers, below 90hz will be cut out.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
A lower setting helps to keep the sub hidden. Your ears can't tell where frequencies below 80 Hz are coming from.
Using a higher setting will cause the sub to use more power and your other speakers to use less.
It is safer to run the speakers with a higher crossover frequency, but may not sound as good. -
I was told to keep the LFE at 120 hz and have the rest of the speakers 10-20 hz above the lower -3db. Seems to sound wonderful!
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64471Living Room setup: Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH, Krell KAV 300i, PS Audio DL III DAC, Tyler Acoustics Taylo 7u, Dynaudio Audience 120C+, SVS 25/31PCI, B-P-T Clean Power Center, Ps3, Panny 50" S1 Plasma, Tekline speaker cables, Audio Art interconnects, and Pangea power cables. -
i duplicated the post
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So at 90hz, the bass above 90hz will be sent to the speakers, below 90hz will be cut out.
Thanks Jake, thats how i understood it. I have tried it down to 40hz and up to 120hz i think. 90 seemed to be the point i could tell a little difference, but not much.
I want my sub to handle more of the bass, so i was thinking maybe i needed to go up.
I have it working very well with music, sub is very clean very noticable but TV ( hdmi / direct tv ) sound does'nt seem to even wake my sub up ? Sometimes but not always.
I had been reading what i could find and 80hz seemed to be the most popular cross over point. I'm sure this is relative to equipment too.
Thank you all for the info -
I have it working very well with music, sub is very clean very noticable but TV ( hdmi / direct tv ) sound does'nt seem to even wake my sub up ? Sometimes but not always.
Thank you all for the info
You welcome,
To wake up a sub more offten, try lowering the volume on the sub and increase the sub level on the reciever. The sub responds to input signal, so the stronger signal it recieves the sooner it will "wake up".Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Boston Acoustics sub (HP10HO) paired with Polk monitor 60's.
I've tried reading up on it and 80 seems the most popular. I currently have mine at 90. I did try 80.
My question is i can't really tell all that much difference. What am i changing by going up or down ?
I'm sure this is a dumb question, but i'm new to the subwoofer part
Thanks
First, are we talking about the crossover on the subwoofer itself? Or on your receiver? If you're talking about the one on the subwoofer, turn it all the way up as high as it will go. Your receiver should be handling the crossover from speaker to sub and you should get the crossover on the sub itself out of the way.
If your receiver gives you a pretty flexible range of crossover adjustment, I'd try 70Hz for those Monitor 60s. Their -3dB point is 48Hz, so 70Hz would give you over 1/3 octave for a smooth transition from sub to speakers before the crossover significantly interacts with the speaker's natural rolloff. In fact, you might even get away with a 60Hz crossover, considering in-room response is normally lower than anechoic specs indicate, but I'd go 70 with it.
As for TV sound not waking the sub, television sound can often have that problem because regular TV uses compressed audio that rarely dips into low frequencies. Digital channels, on the other hand, will be more likely to contain content that low. The suggestion to turn down gain on the sub and turn up the level trim on the receiver is a good one for alleviating that issue.Equipment list:
Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
Emotiva XPA-3 amp
Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen -
kuntasensei wrote: »First, are we talking about the crossover on the subwoofer itself? Or on your receiver? If you're talking about the one on the subwoofer, turn it all the way up as high as it will go. Your receiver should be handling the crossover from speaker to sub and you should get the crossover on the sub itself out of the way.
If your receiver gives you a pretty flexible range of crossover adjustment, I'd try 70Hz for those Monitor 60s. Their -3dB point is 48Hz, so 70Hz would give you over 1/3 octave for a smooth transition from sub to speakers before the crossover significantly interacts with the speaker's natural rolloff. In fact, you might even get away with a 60Hz crossover, considering in-room response is normally lower than anechoic specs indicate, but I'd go 70 with it.
As for TV sound not waking the sub, television sound can often have that problem because regular TV uses compressed audio that rarely dips into low frequencies. Digital channels, on the other hand, will be more likely to contain content that low. The suggestion to turn down gain on the sub and turn up the level trim on the receiver is a good one for alleviating that issue.
It's at 90hz on the reciever. Sub is at 11:00 on the knob. i don't remember it listing the number.
As for the reciever it has 40hz, 60hz, 80hz, 90 hz and up..........on up to around 120hz.
So at the reciever: try 60hz with the sub setting turned up ?
At the sub: Reduce the volume and max the crossover ?
Thanks for the advice ! -
Ryder, If you are going to adjust any crossover setting with the AVR, turned the crossover on the sub's amp all the way up.
When using an AVR's bassmanagement, the connection should be to the LFE on the sub. The LFE connection on the sub is a crossover bypass. If the sub has no LFE, then the L/R inputs on the sub will be used and the sub's crossover should be turn up as high at it can go.
Then you can adjust the AVR's crossover without the 2 crossovers (AVR's and sub's amp) conflicting.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Ryder, If you are going to adjust any crossover setting with the AVR, turned the crossover on the sub's amp all the way up.
When using an AVR's bassmanagement, the connection should be to the LFE on the sub. The LFE connection on the sub is a crossover bypass. If the sub has no LFE, then the L/R inputs on the sub will be used and the sub's crossover should be turn up as high at it can go.
Then you can adjust the AVR's crossover without the 2 crossovers (AVR's and sub's amp) conflicting.
I'll try it Jake.
Thanks again. -
I broke down and read the manual.
1) It said setting the reciever speaker setting to " small " vs " large" will direct more bass to the subwoofer. I tried it and it does make a difference. On my Yamaha reciever. setting your front and center speakers as large, will direct more bass to them, and taking bass away from the sub.
2) I did add speaker level at the reciever and decreased the volume on the sub. Again, it helped.
3) My crossover is now at 60hz. I don't have a setting at 70hz.
4) I put my sub in a corner. Again, according to the manual, it adds bass.
It will obviously take some trial and error, and reading the dang manual. :rolleyes: -
I broke down and read the manual. :rolleyes:
Manual's are for wussies
This coming from a guy who uses a pink font....PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
danger boy wrote: »Manual's are for wussies
99.9% of the time i agree. I just glanced through it for setup. In this case, i would've saved myself some aggravation.
I read on here to set the front & center speakers to large, so i did. It works fine but the sub would just shut itself down.
There was some good advice here though.
thanks