subwoofer shootout in TX - polk vs. svs...

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Comments

  • MikeC78
    MikeC78 Posts: 2,315
    edited March 2008
    No, it's not. There is nothing wrong with a Y-splitter, besides they are recommended by many sub manufactuers.

    Damn, I should of known all along that SVS would steer me in the wrong direction.:rolleyes:
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Yes, and the line out, bypasses the subs xover. So basilcally your sending the same signal to sub 1 as sub 2.

    Try it out, wont cost you anything but a 3' pair of RCA jacks. I'm sure you have some laying around somewhere.

    bass sounds cleaner. Xover@80Hz on the avr

    DSC01245.jpg
    DSC01247.jpg
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2008
    There ya go, Slow..
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Yes, and the line out, bypasses the subs xover. So basilcally your sending the same signal to sub 1 as sub 2.

    Try it out, wont cost you anything but a 3' pair of RCA jacks. I'm sure you have some laying around somewhere.

    jake, this daisy chain connection is not good.....the signal i believe gets lower and lower going from 1 sub to another...the one last in the chain "wakes up" last, also cone movement is less compared than #2, which is less than#1...might have to go with the velo sms-1 and drive all 3 with the 3 LFE outputs on the unit :p

    DSC01248.jpg
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2008
    SLow, my apologize, I thought I saw only 2 subs, not 3. I have only done this with 2 subs.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2008
    Three now? You've lost your mind! :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    SLow, my apologize, I thought I saw only 2 subs, not 3. I have only done this with 2 subs.

    it was 2....and it became 3 yesterday after work :D

    do you have a problem with #1 sub having more cone movement than #2 sub (last one in the link)?
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    Face wrote: »
    Three now? You've lost your mind! :D

    1 sounded great, 2 was even better...when i get all 3 working right, i will be :D:D:D

    even with the 3 subs partially working right, i'm really liking what i'm "feeling" :p
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2008
    If you don't pick up a velo sms-1, I would consider wiring them differently. Since one wakes up later than the others, you might suffer a delay from the last one in the chain. I woulc consider a 3 way splitter, then run a separate line to each sub.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2008
    SlowcarIX wrote: »
    it was 2....and it became 3 yesterday after work :D

    do you have a problem with #1 sub having more cone movement than #2 sub (last one in the link)?


    Sub 2, in my setup, is a completely different sub. And not stacked. So the volume level was always different. You might loose alittle signal strength, between sub 1 and 2, but usually raising the level of sub 2 compensates for signal strength. If there is a problem with sub waking up, lower the volume on the sub and raise the level on the AVR.

    With 3 subs, I believe you will have to split twice @ AVR.

    If your AVR has only one LFE out, the 2 Y splitters should be used. One Y spliter connected to the other will give you 3 outputs. Run one cable to each sub, Y split again @ the sub L/R input.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    i'm using 2 lfe outputs from the back of avr

    i think to make sure all 3 subs get same amount signal...i might have to go to 2 pair of 3way split - left sub output on avr split 3 ways to sub #1/#2/#3. same for right channel
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2008
    SlowcarIX wrote: »
    i'm using 2 lfe outputs from the back of avr

    i think to make sure all 3 subs get same amount signal...i might have to go to 2 pair of 3way split - left sub output on avr split 3 ways to sub #1/#2/#3. same for right channel

    2 LFE outputs? Then your even better, 1 Y split, All 3 subs connected directly to AVR.

    This way all 3 subs will get the same signal strength. 2 subs connetcted to Y @ AVR, one sub connected directly to AVR..
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited March 2008
    3 now, maybe you will after all give the SVS a decent run... ;)
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    Sami wrote: »
    3 now, maybe you will after all give the SVS a decent run... ;)

    lol...it will still be 2 600s vs. i svs

    i am trying to figure how to make 3 work at the moment...
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • MikeC78
    MikeC78 Posts: 2,315
    edited March 2008
    How about you get quadruplets, run duals stacked on each side of your mains?:eek:
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    MikeC78 wrote: »
    How about you get quadruplets, run duals stacked on each side of your mains?:eek:

    i got a square room...it sounded better with stacked on one corner than apart
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • MikeC78
    MikeC78 Posts: 2,315
    edited March 2008
    I was only kidding, but I'm glad you got it all figured out. Congrats!:)
  • the7comeback7ki
    the7comeback7ki Posts: 51
    edited March 2008
    Make sure to post the DB you are getting in that room once it is all working. That must be insane.
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited March 2008
    I hope you're having a safe trip back home. Don't forget to watch the first race of the F1 season once you get back... :)
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited March 2008
    So did you guys have your GTG? What happened?

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited March 2008
    Ron Temple wrote: »
    So did you guys have your GTG? What happened?

    Yep, we tested out dual 600's and SVS PCU. Rough calibration first. We noticed the 600's rolled off around 35-40Hz while the SVS kept going all the way to 20Hz where the test tone ended.

    Played some movie scenes; Transformers, LOTR:ROTK mostly. Polk IMO had better output around 70-80Hz which is going to make me see if xover at 60Hz is better paired with LSi15's when the PCU is tuned to 16Hz. Very similar output between 55-70Hz (all rough estimates based on ear), and I believe the SVS started to have 3dB or slightly higher advantage down to the point where the Polk's rolled off completely.

    Overall, the dual Polk's are very nice, they provide a lot of kick in even the most demanding scenes that do not go to the lowest notes. Transformers was very similar output, only in a few scenes the SVS provided that "earth's moving" effect that was missing from the Polk's, and even then it was mild as this movie doesn't go that low. LOTR on the other hand is filled with low notes, as everyone knows, the difference was quite drastic. It's not all good as this causes all kinds of resonating sounds coming from the environment, but it does feel good.

    We unfortunately only compared movies, not music. I feel the SVS is more than capable for music playback but I think the Polk's might be even better, especially if you have bookshelves and want to xover higher, although changing the tune on the SVS from 16Hz to 25Hz might help...

    p.s. I'm the owner of the SVS but I hope my review is as accurate and unbiased, I think I wrote it down the way I saw, felt and heard it. Those who were there might be able to give their side of the story if it differs from mine.
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2008
    Thanks for posting that Sami.

    I believe that Polk finally hit the mark for an all purpose subwoofer lineup that actually does hit some low end with authority....finally. I never expected it to best the SVS as it's designed to hit low and hard. That's something that I love about my SVS but even with all the love from the places we visit, we're still a somewhat small market segment.

    With companies like Epik, ED and HSU also producing low end monsters, this should change dramatically in the coming years. I would hope that Polk follows suit to the next level with at least one, reference level type subwoofer. I'm just happy they don't exude immediate laughter anymore. They(DSW Series) are expected to compete heavily in the B&M segment and that's where the bulk of the marketplace resides anyways.

    Hopefully we can get some DSW/ MicroPro demos worked out with Craigsub down the road.....that's if we can convince Polk to do so.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited March 2008
    Sami wrote: »
    Yep, we tested out dual 600's and SVS PCU. Rough calibration first. We noticed the 600's rolled off around 35-40Hz while the SVS kept going all the way to 20Hz where the test tone ended.

    Played some movie scenes; Transformers, LOTR:ROTK mostly. Polk IMO had better output around 70-80Hz which is going to make me see if xover at 60Hz is better paired with LSi15's when the PCU is tuned to 16Hz. Very similar output between 55-70Hz (all rough estimates based on ear), and I believe the SVS started to have 3dB or slightly higher advantage down to the point where the Polk's rolled off completely.

    Overall, the dual Polk's are very nice, they provide a lot of kick in even the most demanding scenes that do not go to the lowest notes. Transformers was very similar output, only in a few scenes the SVS provided that "earth's moving" effect that was missing from the Polk's, and even then it was mild as this movie doesn't go that low. LOTR on the other hand is filled with low notes, as everyone knows, the difference was quite drastic. It's not all good as this causes all kinds of resonating sounds coming from the environment, but it does feel good.

    We unfortunately only compared movies, not music. I feel the SVS is more than capable for music playback but I think the Polk's might be even better, especially if you have bookshelves and want to xover higher, although changing the tune on the SVS from 16Hz to 25Hz might help...

    p.s. I'm the owner of the SVS but I hope my review is as accurate and unbiased, I think I wrote it down the way I saw, felt and heard it. Those who were there might be able to give their side of the story if it differs from mine.

    thanks Sami for the unbiased review of the shootout.

    the 600s roll off below 25Hz and this is a screen shot of the room correction applied by the velodyne sms-1. avr crossed over @80Hz and low pass filter in the sms-1 turned off

    DSC01256.jpg
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612