Jumpers

phipiper10
phipiper10 Posts: 955
edited February 2008 in Speakers
For all of the tweaking and changing cables and isolation feet and cleaning records and removing static and demagnetizing and balancing etc...is too little attention paid to jumpers on the back of speakers?

You do 100 things up stream and worry about DACs and power conditioners and have $300 or more in cables up stream then you put your signal onto a cheap piece of tin for the last few inches assuming you have two sets of binding posts.

Wouldn't it be best to have jumpers match the rest of your wire and have similar attributes to match (synergy)? I'm not saying this is my primary concern but with all the other things people do seems not much attention is paid here.
Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
Post edited by phipiper10 on

Comments

  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,065
    edited February 2008
    mine have been replaced
  • janmike
    janmike Posts: 6,146
    edited February 2008
    Agreed. I replaced mine on the centre channel. This rest of my speakers are bi-wired.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60°
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited February 2008
    so what was the before and after improvement?
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited February 2008
    Jumpers were my first foray to the Dark Side.
    Sharp Elite 70
    Anthem D2V 3D
    Parasound 5250
    Parasound HCA 1000 A
    Parasound HCA 1000
    Oppo BDP 95
    Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
    Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
    Totem Mask Surrounds X4
    Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
    Sony PS3
    Squeezebox Touch

    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 955
    edited February 2008
    Making my own was the first thing I ever did in terms of tweaking. I thought I was so cool. I was nervous ...am I doing this right etc. I didn't do any scientific testing. Maybe I should go back and test stuff out now that I have an entirely different system.

    I used some audioquest x2 I had leftover.

    This is what I had done on the back of my RT800i at the time with my 300 disc changer and Onkyo receiver. Actually I will test this out now that I have a more resolving setup to see what difference if any there is and report back. The only way to know for sure right!

    attachment.php?attachmentid=14554&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1141008735
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,782
    edited February 2008
    Wouldn't it be best to have jumpers match the rest of your wire and have similar attributes to match (synergy)? I'm not saying this is my primary concern but with all the other things people do seems not much attention is paid here.

    With that logic you would need to replace all the internal wiring with the same wire as well. Not to mention re-doing the crossovers with point to point wiring, so you can avoid all the traces on the PCB. Then there is the leads on the caps, resistors, and the wire in the inductors...
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2008
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    With that logic you would need to replace all the internal wiring with the same wire as well. Not to mention re-doing the crossovers with point to point wiring, so you can avoid all the traces on the PCB. Then there is the leads on the caps, and the wire in the inductors...
    I replaced all internal wiring with silver cable and also replaced all solder joints on the crossover with silver solder. Changing inductors can give negative results due to different resistances, otherwise I would have done that already. Point to point wiring is in the works though. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche