Jumpers
phipiper10
Posts: 955
For all of the tweaking and changing cables and isolation feet and cleaning records and removing static and demagnetizing and balancing etc...is too little attention paid to jumpers on the back of speakers?
You do 100 things up stream and worry about DACs and power conditioners and have $300 or more in cables up stream then you put your signal onto a cheap piece of tin for the last few inches assuming you have two sets of binding posts.
Wouldn't it be best to have jumpers match the rest of your wire and have similar attributes to match (synergy)? I'm not saying this is my primary concern but with all the other things people do seems not much attention is paid here.
You do 100 things up stream and worry about DACs and power conditioners and have $300 or more in cables up stream then you put your signal onto a cheap piece of tin for the last few inches assuming you have two sets of binding posts.
Wouldn't it be best to have jumpers match the rest of your wire and have similar attributes to match (synergy)? I'm not saying this is my primary concern but with all the other things people do seems not much attention is paid here.
Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
Post edited by phipiper10 on
Comments
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mine have been replaced
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Agreed. I replaced mine on the centre channel. This rest of my speakers are bi-wired.Michael
In the beginning, all knowledge was new!
NORTH of 60° -
so what was the before and after improvement?my 7.(1x4) HT setup
TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
Front - Emerald Physics CS2
Center - JTR Triple 12LF
Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
Buttkicker
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612 -
Jumpers were my first foray to the Dark Side.Sharp Elite 70
Anthem D2V 3D
Parasound 5250
Parasound HCA 1000 A
Parasound HCA 1000
Oppo BDP 95
Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
Totem Mask Surrounds X4
Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
Sony PS3
Squeezebox Touch
Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door. -
Making my own was the first thing I ever did in terms of tweaking. I thought I was so cool. I was nervous ...am I doing this right etc. I didn't do any scientific testing. Maybe I should go back and test stuff out now that I have an entirely different system.
I used some audioquest x2 I had leftover.
This is what I had done on the back of my RT800i at the time with my 300 disc changer and Onkyo receiver. Actually I will test this out now that I have a more resolving setup to see what difference if any there is and report back. The only way to know for sure right!
Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels -
Wouldn't it be best to have jumpers match the rest of your wire and have similar attributes to match (synergy)? I'm not saying this is my primary concern but with all the other things people do seems not much attention is paid here.
With that logic you would need to replace all the internal wiring with the same wire as well. Not to mention re-doing the crossovers with point to point wiring, so you can avoid all the traces on the PCB. Then there is the leads on the caps, resistors, and the wire in the inductors... -
With that logic you would need to replace all the internal wiring with the same wire as well. Not to mention re-doing the crossovers with point to point wiring, so you can avoid all the traces on the PCB. Then there is the leads on the caps, and the wire in the inductors..."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche