mmc6500 bi amp help.

shawn earnheart

i'm fixing to buy some mmc6500 components to put in my truck i already have a alpine mrp-f240 amp (40 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms 50 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms 100 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms) am i better off to bi wire or bridge? also what is the wattage split on woofer and tweeter? i assume they split the 125 watt rms equally? will sound quality be better bi wired?

MacLeod

You mean bi-amped. Bi-wiring is something the home audio guys do when the run 2 sets of wires from one amp channel. One for the tweeter and one for the mid.

Bi-amping is where you run the tweeters off one amp channel and the mids off another like front channels for tweets and rear channels for mids.

If you want the most tuning flexibility, then bi-amping is the way to go. It allows you to control each tweeter independently of each midrange and that makes for a lot better sound eventually.

However if youre a "plug and play" kinda guy that just wants to hook the things up and get to it, then I would bridge the 4 channel to a 2 channel. This will give you a lot more power to play with.

Kinetic

MacLeod wrote: »

You mean bi-amped. Bi-wiring is something the home audio guys do when the run 2 sets of wires from one amp channel. One for the tweeter and one for the mid.

Bi-amping is where you run the tweeters off one amp channel and the mids off another like front channels for tweets and rear channels for mids.

If you want the most tuning flexibility, then bi-amping is the way to go. It allows you to control each tweeter independently of each midrange and that makes for a lot better sound eventually.

However if youre a "plug and play" kinda guy that just wants to hook the things up and get to it, then I would bridge the 4 channel to a 2 channel. This will give you a lot more power to play with.

Mac, i want to do bi-amp but what about the passive crossovers on my DB6500?

i could use the crossover on the HU, but i dont know at what hertz

shawn earnheart

thanks mac for the advice i think i'll bridge it.

MacLeod

Kinetic wrote: »

Mac, i want to do bi-amp but what about the passive crossovers on my DB6500?

i could use the crossover on the HU, but i dont know at what hertz

You can do one of two things. You can use the DB crossover if youre not into the tuning. Use the DB crossover for the tweeters and then run the mids full range.

Or if you want to do the tweaking run them off your HU's crossover. Id start at 3.5 KHz and experiment from there.

Kinetic

MacLeod wrote: »

You can do one of two things. You can use the DB crossover if youre not into the tuning. Use the DB crossover for the tweeters and then run the mids full range.

Or if you want to do the tweaking run them off your HU's crossover. Id start at 3.5 KHz and experiment from there.

what about the Gains?

50 RMS for the tweeter and 50 RMS for the mids?
or
100 RMS for the tweeter and 100 RMS for the mids?

also what it i run double wire, from the amp front and rear channel to the passive DB crossovers? instead of bridge them?

thanks a lot mac, i learn a lot in here..

MacLeod

Kinetic wrote: »

what about the Gains?

50 RMS for the tweeter and 50 RMS for the mids?
or
100 RMS for the tweeter and 100 RMS for the mids?

also what it i run double wire, from the amp front and rear channel to the passive DB crossovers? instead of bridge them?

thanks a lot mac, i learn a lot in here..

The gains should be set properly just like always. Once thats done you can tweak them a little for level adjustment between the mid and tweet.

As for power, Id say stick to 50 per driver for the DB's.

Double wire? You mean run 2 pairs of speaker wire to the same speaker? Thats called bi-wiring and is a waste of wire. It does nothing.

Kinetic

MacLeod wrote: »

The gains should be set properly just like always. Once thats done you can tweak them a little for level adjustment between the mid and tweet.

As for power, Id say stick to 50 per driver for the DB's.

Double wire? You mean run 2 pairs of speaker wire to the same speaker? Thats called bi-wiring and is a waste of wire. It does nothing.

My PDX makes noise on bridged mode, so i was thinking in do bi-wiring, to have the same result as the bridged mode, but without the noise of the bridged mode.

is it safe, or i should stick with my actual bridged mode?

PD: by bi-wiring, I mean chan1 and chan2 of the amp, to the left front speaker, and chan3 and chan4 to the right front speaker. and having 50RMS on each channel to have a 100 RMS of clean power on each driver, and leave the pasive crossover (my HU crossover only goes from 20 to 200 Hz)

MacLeod

I doubt your amp is making noise when its bridged.

When you bridge it, its making over 200 watts per channel. Thats way more power than the DB's are rated to handle. Chances are youre simply overdriving them.

And no, you dont wire 2 different channels to the same speaker.

Kinetic

MacLeod wrote: »

I doubt your amp is making noise when its bridged.

When you bridge it, its making over 200 watts per channel. Thats way more power than the DB's are rated to handle. Chances are youre simply overdriving them.

And no, you dont wire 2 different channels to the same speaker.

the gains are set up to give just a 100 RMS but without distortion.

my PDX amp has that noise when i bridge it, and its a noise only when i turn on the HU, when the music starts the noise dissapear, in other forums told me that this is common on some PDX amps, the "bi-wiring" was a chance for me to get out of the noise and keeping my 100 RMS without any distortion.

MacLeod

Dude, the gains do not control power. Setting the gain halfway on a 100 watt amp does not yield 50 watts. The gains only match the input of the amp to the output of the CD player so that theyre working together and you dont have the amp at 75% output when the CD player's volume is only at 25%.

You take a 100x4 amp and bridge it and youre getting around 200 watts per channel regardless where the gains are set.

The problem with bridging is that it makes the amp work at 100% all the time and decreases the signal to noise ratio - this is the noise youre hearing if its a slight hiss. Its not disappearing with the music, its just the music drowning it out. Turn the gains down to about 25% and Ill bet ya the noise disappears.

Kinetic

my gains are on the 25%

the noise starts when i turn on the hu, and you dont hear any music, when you turn up the volume up to 13, the noise stops and the musics starts.

MacLeod

Sounds like youve got a faulty amp then.

Either get it replaced or just stick to bi-amping.