Painting question

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DavGins
DavGins Posts: 19
edited February 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I just purchased an RM 3600 Center Channel Speaker to add to my RM7500 system to make it a 6.1 setup. The speaker I purchased was in Titanium and I have a black set. Its kind of a high gloss piano black finish. I would like to paint the Titanium cabinet to match the set. Would black lacquer spray paint followed by a clear coat match what I have? If not .. any suggestions on a better way? I attached a pic of the set I own. Thanks in advance.
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited February 2008
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    To get a real piano gloss finish takes a ton of work but maybe the lacquer + clear will give you aceptable results.Give it a try on some scrap wood and see how it looks.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
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  • DavGins
    DavGins Posts: 19
    edited February 2008
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    GV#27 wrote: »
    To get a real piano gloss finish takes a ton of work but maybe the lacquer + clear will give you aceptable results.Give it a try on some scrap wood and see how it looks.

    I'll give it a try on some scrap wood, but I have to think the finish on these satellites I have isn't an authentic piano gloss finish. Don't you think?
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited February 2008
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    If the surface is perfectly smooth before you paint it, gloss or half gloss paint with clear coat(go high gloss here) will do it.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,840
    edited February 2008
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    Those finishes are applied under highly controlled conditions using material that you can't buy in a spray can. If you want a near perfect match, take it to a pro.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited February 2008
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Those finishes are applied under highly controlled conditions using material that you can't buy in a spray can. If you want a near perfect match, take it to a pro.

    I second this. We own a body shop and paint many cars daily( same principle ). And there is no way to achieve a piano gloss finish with a spray can. You have have to base it with a black urethane enamel and then clear it three or four times. Then wet sand and buff it to achieve a piano black finish. I would take it to a pro.

    Or just do a scratch piece of wood of the same type of material and see how it turns out. If your not too picky you might be able to live with the end result. Its up to you.

    Good Luck
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,389
    edited February 2008
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    There are different techniques to achieve different finishes. If you post a pic it might help us to help you more. Also, do you know anybody with an HVLP sprayer or artists airbrush and compressor?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • honda cber
    honda cber Posts: 267
    edited February 2008
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    You have have to base it with a black urethane enamel and then clear it three or four times. Then wet sand and buff it to achieve a piano black finish.
    yes, but all of this can be accomplished with rattle cans and a (lot!) of wet sanding/buffing. i have painted various motorcycle parts and refinished about 14 guitars in my life, including black in nitrocellulose lacquer (from rattle cans). that sucker had gloss and depth that rivaled basically any commercially finished instrument i have ever seen (high-end customs not included). however, i had probably 13 coats of clear by the time it was over and done with (including a sand-through fiasco!). it will take careful prep and a lot of elbow grease. also, it is important to note that rattle can paint is high in solvent, and as such can take some time to fully gas out. nitro is stinky for literally months, but acrylic cures much faster.
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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited February 2008
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    Sounds like you got it figured out.:)
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  • honda cber
    honda cber Posts: 267
    edited February 2008
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    nikolas812 wrote: »
    Sounds like you got it figured out.:)

    i definitely learned from trial/error/research. especially with nitro, letting it cure is key. most people (apparently myself included, at least the first go-round) cant believe how long some of these finishes can actually take to get hard enough to work, even if they have been handle-able for days. i hope you dont think i was being rude or anything--- not my intention.

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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited February 2008
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    It did come off a little rude but no harm done.;)

    I know what your talking about though when it comes to cure times. Fortunately our paint booth gives us the ability to bake the paint at a 150-180 degrees Fahrenheit. When can have a car ready to roll out of the paint booth in 30 minutes. It's almost tripled our productivity since we got it.
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  • honda cber
    honda cber Posts: 267
    edited February 2008
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    nikolas812 wrote: »
    It did come off a little rude but no harm done.;)
    not sure how, but i apologize nonetheless.
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