Finally...My first amp!!
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DannyD
Posts: 133
So I finally picked up a used Marantz MM9000 for my first venture into external amplification. The price was too good to resist at 350.00. It's rated at 150wpc to all 5 channels. Anyone have experience with this amp or could shed some light for me on what to expect? I can't wait to hook it up. I should be getting it in a week ot two. Did I make a good choice in the Marantz? This will hopefully tie me over for a few years until I'm ready to dish out serious cash on something really good. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated;)
Fronts: RTI10's
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner
Post edited by DannyD on
Comments
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Congrats! you sound just as excited as me. I just bought my first amp (Sunfire Cinema Grand) which should be here by the weekend

DanielAVR: Pioneer VSX-84TXSi (RIP - lightening) / Amp: Sunfire Cinema Grand / Klipsh R-10B Sounbar, LC65fx / Sub: Elemental Designs LT/1300 / TV: Panasonic TH-50PH9UK /SIZE] -
Certainlly seems like a nice first step into separate amplification.
As an experiment, you may want to try bi-amping the 10's and letting the AVR handle the surrounds. If you listen to music in 2ch a lot, this could help get the most out of the 10s.5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
How would I go about bi-amping my 10s and letting the Avr handle the surrounds?Fronts: RTI10's
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner -
good work Danny D, you can hardly touch a good two channel amp for that price.. let along a 5 ch one. WTG!!PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
When I recently switched from AVR to external amplification I was blown away by the difference. You'll definitely be happy.If you will it, dude, it is no dream.
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I believe to bi-amp the Rti10s off the Marantz, you'll need a couple y-splitters / adapters. Take the left channel from the AVR preout and split that to channels 1 and 2 of the marantz amp. Put channel 1 speaker level outs to the left Rti10 lows, put channel 2 speaker level to the left RTi10s highs. Do the same thing with the right channel preout (splitter to 3&4 of amp, 3 on lows, 4 on highs). Then, a regular, single RCA from the center preout of the AVR to channel 5 for the marantz, then speaker level out from channel 5 of marantz to center speaker.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but that at least sounds right.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
How would I go about bi-amping my 10s and letting the Avr handle the surrounds?
Danny, I got your PM, but I'll just reply here.
No, the amp can't be bridged.
Here's what you would do to try bi-amping:
1) You would need a y-splitter from the left and right pre outs on the AVR. I believe there are companies that make 1 piece cables for this purpose (I think Signal Cable will make them).
2) One end of the y would go the L front input on the amp, the other to the L rear input. Repeat for R channel.
3) Remove jumpers on speaker binding posts.
4) Connect L front speaker output to top set of posts, with another speaker wire (could use 1 wire if it has 4 conductors), connect L rear to bottom set of posts. Repeat for R channel.
5) Use amp for center channel.
6) Keep surround channels connected to the AVR via speaker wire.
7) Calibrate all channels, which you will need to do in any case.
The reason I suggested this is because surround channels really do not draw much power compared to the center and fronts, and the 10s should open up and sound more dynamic with more power.
Since you said that you're 95% HT in the PM, I honestly don't think bi-amping will give you much, especially if you're running L and R as small, sending bass to the sub.
If you did a lot of 2ch listening without the sub, then I'd say give bi-amping a try to determine if you hear a significant improvement feeding more power to the 10's.
Oh, and nice price on that amp.5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
Andy beat me to it...5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
Congrats on the new amp purchase. Sounds like you definitely did it right the first time instead of trying out a lower-end model amp and then eventually going through another upgrade ... I think that's a wise choice.
I'd 2nd (3rd/4th?) the advice to try bi-amping your 10's and leaving the AVR to handle the surround duty. I've done a bit of experimenting with the surround channels amplified externally vs. using the AVR to power them, and I personally did not notice any improvement with external amplification. I'm sure there are others who would disagree, and there may be some other factors that might change your experience, but it's at least worth a shot.My HT
HDTV: Panasonic PT-61LCX65 61" Rear Proj. LCD
AVR: Harman Kardon AVR 235
Video: 80GB PS3, Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD
Fronts: Polk Audio RTi8
Center: Polk Audio CSi3
Amp: Emotiva LPA-1
Surrounds: Polk Audio R150
Sub: HSU STF-3
The only true barrier to knowledge is the assumption that you already have it. - C.H. Dodd -
Yours looks better, though, Adam.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Correct me if I'm wrong...by bi-amping the 10's, I'm essentially sending 150 watts to the tweeters and 150 watts to the 7 inch woofers??? If I didn,t bi-amp and hooked it up the normal way, the woofers and tweeters would share 150 watts?Fronts: RTI10's
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner -
Correct me if I'm wrong...by bi-amping the 10's, I'm essentially sending 150 watts to the tweeters and 150 watts to the 7 inch woofers??? If I didn,t bi-amp and hooked it up the normal way, the woofers and tweeters would share 150 watts?
yes that's true... which isn't a bad deal either.. i think people forget really how little wattage most speakers need.. it's usually only if they are 4 or 6ohm that they require more power/current and when you push your music or loud passages in a movie where it puts more demand on an amp.
Still though, having an external amp is much better than trying to run 5 speakers off a receiver.
PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Danny, I got your PM, but I'll just reply here.
No, the amp can't be bridged.
Here's what you would do to try bi-amping:
1) You would need a y-splitter from the left and right pre outs on the AVR. I believe there are companies that make 1 piece cables for this purpose (I think Signal Cable will make them).
2) One end of the y would go the L front input on the amp, the other to the L rear input. Repeat for R channel.
3) Remove jumpers on speaker binding posts.
4) Connect L front speaker output to top set of posts, with another speaker wire (could use 1 wire if it has 4 conductors), connect L rear to bottom set of posts. Repeat for R channel.
5) Use amp for center channel.
6) Keep surround channels connected to the AVR via speaker wire.
7) Calibrate all channels, which you will need to do in any case.
The reason I suggested this is because surround channels really do not draw much power compared to the center and fronts, and the 10s should open up and sound more dynamic with more power.
Since you said that you're 95% HT in the PM, I honestly don't think bi-amping will give you much, especially if you're running L and R as small, sending bass to the sub.
If you did a lot of 2ch listening without the sub, then I'd say give bi-amping a try to determine if you hear a significant improvement feeding more power to the 10's.
Oh, and nice price on that amp.
As you instructed in step 2, I just want to clarify. One end of the y splitter will go to the left front input of the "Marantz" amp and the other end of the y will go to the left rear "surround" input of the marantz amp. Just a little confused since I'm still a newbie. I don't want to blow anything up LOL!! Thanks for all your help...this forum rocks becuse of people willing to helpout.Fronts: RTI10's
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner -
Better make sure that the amp has the same wattage for front and surround. I know most amps rate it the same , but wind up something like, 100 watts front and 60 watts surround.
That would throw balance off..Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
What's the best way to figure out if the front and rear channels are balanced in respect to their wattage outputs?Fronts: RTI10's
Center: CSIA6
Rears: RTIA3's
Sub: 15" Velodyne DLS5000R x2 Stacked:D:D:D
Amp: Marantz MM-9000 150wpc (bi-amped for RTI10's) and CSIA6
Blu-Ray: PS3
Harman Kardon AVR247
Monster Cables
Signal Analog II IC's
Panamax MP-5300 Power Conditioner -
Correct me if I'm wrong...by bi-amping the 10's, I'm essentially sending 150 watts to the tweeters and 150 watts to the 7 inch woofers??? If I didn,t bi-amp and hooked it up the normal way, the woofers and tweeters would share 150 watts?
The 10s are 3-way speakers with 2 crossover points. Therefore, it could also be possible that one set of inputs goes to the mid/tweeter and the other goes to the woofers. This would seem to make more sense, but you could contact Polk to confirm.5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
As you instructed in step 2, I just want to clarify. One end of the y splitter will go to the left front input of the "Marantz" amp and the other end of the y will go to the left rear "surround" input of the marantz amp. Just a little confused since I'm still a newbie. I don't want to blow anything up LOL!! Thanks for all your help...this forum rocks becuse of people willing to helpout.
Yes.5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5.