Lsi15 or lsi9 with quality external sub ?
polkseller
Posts: 184
I cannot decide between the lsi 15 and the Lsi 9 for my room.
I was planning on buying the RTI A7, but the speaker itself is too big for my girlfriend's taste. So I planning on the LSI instead .
I can buy the lsi 9 cheaper and add a quality subwoofer ( polk dsw500, HSu vtf, svs 10) or buy the lsi 15 without a sub.
This room (14x14 feet) will serve mainly for music and some movies. Later next year, I will install all equipment downstair in the future home cinema room.
Many people here says that the lsi 15 sub is just ok. Wich configuration will sound best..?
I was planning on buying the RTI A7, but the speaker itself is too big for my girlfriend's taste. So I planning on the LSI instead .
I can buy the lsi 9 cheaper and add a quality subwoofer ( polk dsw500, HSu vtf, svs 10) or buy the lsi 15 without a sub.
This room (14x14 feet) will serve mainly for music and some movies. Later next year, I will install all equipment downstair in the future home cinema room.
Many people here says that the lsi 15 sub is just ok. Wich configuration will sound best..?
Post edited by polkseller on
Comments
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I had the 9s but never the 15s...I would say just go with the 15s so you dont have to worry about stands. If you arent setting the speakers on stands then I'd go 9s plus capable sub for sure.
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I have the 7's and 15's. For movies, I'd prefer the 7's (9's in your case) with a good sub.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
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For HT I would vote 9's with a good sub. Obviously I'm slightly biased towards that opinion!DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
You're going to need a sub regardless."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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When you go to a HT you will need a sub regardless. That could be now or later... The LSi9s are really all you will need in that setup. I would also say get a sub. For the smaller end the outlaw LFM-2 and Outlaw LFM-1 compact are available for b-stock with free shipping. They Match the LSi9s very well.My Iron Man training/charity blog.
HT:
32" Sharp LCD. H/K dpr 1001 to Outlaw Audio 7900 to Polk LSi + Paradigm Studio center. Hsu DualDrive ULS-15. PS3/Wii. Outlaw 7900. -
I found my Rti6 bass good for movies in my appartment right now. So I'm not a bass addict
maybe the lsi 15 will be ok for my taste for the moment in the living room. I will add a sub next year for my home theather room.
I hate stands, but I prefer the look of the Lsi9 over the Lsi 15...( grill on, it's not the best looking)
so I really dont know if I will get a better sound with the lsi9 and a quality sub instead of the lsi15 without a sub. -
LSi15 is 4 ohm....most likely you will need amp to power those speakers unless you have powerful AVR....I suppose that's why people recommend LSi9 with subs...Video: LG 55LN5100/Samsung LNT4065F
Receiver: HK AVR445
Source: OPPO BDP-93
HT: POLK SPEAKERS RTi6, FXi3, CSi5, VTF-3 MK2
2Ch system: MC2105, AR-XA, AR-2A, AR9, BX-300, OPPO BDP-83 -
The LSi9's are also 4 ohm nominal impedance. How powerful of amp/AVR you need depends on room and listening preferences. You really need an amp section with good dynamic reserves and quality build in the components used.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
my receiver is 4 omhs stable for Front speakers and develop 160 watts RMS x 2 @ 0.1% THD and more than 190 @ 2ohms. Distortion is very low and stay under 0,02% all the way up to 160.
I plan to upgrade to Rotel or other 5 channel monster in the near future. I want to get the best sound out of my future speaker.
I think I will go with the LSI 9 and a good subwoofer that can keep with the speed of the LSI9, so a dsw500 or another one that I dont know. -
I recently just purchased the LSi9's. From my experience, if your setup is mainly for music, the LSi9's go down low enough that you don't need a sub.
Without resorting to active external crossovers and quality stereo subs (the Velodyne 10inch or 12inch DD series sub is what I consider a quality sub), you are not going to be able to properly integrate a sub into your stereo setup.
For HT, the integration isn't that critical (integration problems aren't obvious), you you can get away with using a mid range sub running off your receiver's sub out.
The LSi15's have side firing woofers. They present placement problems. I have owned a pair of floorstanders with side firing woofers in the past, and the placement was always an issue, the bass coming from those side firing woofers never sounded right.
Do you have a place to audition them? That's the best way to decide what is best to your ears. -
Furball, I dont have any place to listen to them here in quebec, maybe in montreal but i'm not sure.
You just said something interesting, it will be difficult to integrate a sub to the stereo setup, why ? Is it because the Velo has variable db crossover slopes and not the polk?
I know yamaha receiver crossover for the sub is not very good, Harman kardon triple sub crossover is one of the best on the market. Maybe if I get another receiver I will get better sound with the auto-calibration process in the receiver that will chosse the good x-over slope and volume. -
I have 4 LSi15s, LSiC, and a PSW-1000 sub. I used to have LSi7s for the back (5.1) but replaced them with LSi15s. After replacing them I noticed more bass with movies (sub turned off). I never use the sub with music, only with movies (action, SCI-Fi, etc.) that make use of a sub.
Although I had no problem driving the LSi speakers with a Denon 3805, Sony DA5000ES, and a Sony 7100ES, and had many enjoyable hours listening to music and movies with those AVRs, I have to admit that after I added a Sunfire TGA-5400 amp (800W x 5 @ 4 ohm) I rarely turn on the sub anymore. The bass that now comes out of the LSi15s is solid. It is amazing. -
To properly integrate a sub into a stereo setup, you need something like a 4th order active external crossover. Otherwise too much bass frequencies will bleed into your mains. And then you have to calibrate the volume between the sub and your mains. And even then, many times the sub still doesn't sound right with your mains, when playing music. You either get the sense that there is a hole somewhere in the bass frequency, or that there is just a tad too much bass.
That's why I never liked using subs when playing music. Just get a pair of mains that go down low enough, and use your mains without a sub.
The LSi15 would be perfect if it has front firing woofers. -
How is that PSW-1000 sub? I was actually thinking about picking one up for watching movies.
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How is that PSW-1000 sub? I was actually thinking about picking one up for watching movies.
I like it. It replaced another Polk PSW???? sub, and it made a big, noticeable improvement in sound. Not only was there more bass, but it just seemed to fit in with the rest of the speakers.
I have it turned way down since there is something in my room that rattles when it is turned up. I need to find and fix that since it is kind of cool to get bowled over by explosions, etc. -
That's good to hear. Always liked the look of the PSW-1000. And since I already have the LSi9's, would like to stay in the family.
How does the PSW-1000 stack up against Polk's newer DSW PRO series subs? Is the PSW-1000 still the king of all Polk subs? -
I really dont know if the psw-1000 is faster than the dsw 500, but I think it's superior in term of lower bass and power (400w bash amp is splendid)
What is the crossover slope in the psw 1000 ? -
I have to admit that after I added a Sunfire TGA-5400 amp (800W x 5 @ 4 ohm) I rarely turn on the sub anymore. The bass that now comes out of the LSi15s is solid. It is amazing.
What ?? 800w x5 , are you crazy ? -
That I don't know.polkseller wrote: »
What is the crossover slope in the psw 1000 ? -
Well I just made a similar decision myself. I however had a DIY sub. This is for my HT, so a sub is a must! I don't think you can have HT with out a good sub, you just need that rumble and boom! I have really been enjoying just sitting and listening to music recently. So when I auditioned speakers, I really liked the more natural sound of the lsi15, the lsi9 sounded a little boomy to me. My set up isn't finished but I am quickly settling on on liking to sub, for music. I do like the tightness and punch alot, of my sealed dual 15" with 2200 watts but I haven't been able to get it to blend right.
You original post says you listen to more music, so maybe get the lsi15's now and when the next upgrade itch happens get a HT sub then.
Just my thoughts on the subject, hope it helps!Home Theatre: Epson 5020ub, Elite Screen Sable Frame 100", Onkyo 818, Oppo BDP-103, Tivo Series 3, Xbox 360, Sealed Dual Sound Splinter RL-p 15" DIY sub powered by Behringer EP2500 with FBD, QSC RMX1400 powering LSi15, LSiC, LSiFX sides, and Lsi7 for the back, Technics SL-1200M3D -
polkseller wrote: »What ?? 800w x5 , are you crazy ?
No. Well, yes, maybe, but not in this situation. -
polkseller wrote: »What ?? 800w x5 , are you crazy ?
the LSi's will love every Watt. mine takes the 500 watts i send to the mains and the 300x2 biamp to the center without breaking a sweat.
probably not using all that power fully, but you know damn well those Lsi's will get whatever they need for whatever they are trying to do, and that is a good thing.
remember gang, underpowering kills speakers faster than overpowering them will. clipping = not goodLiving Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
remember gang, underpowering kills speakers faster than overpowering them will.
I must remember to never turn off my amplifier for fear of damageHome Theatre: Epson 5020ub, Elite Screen Sable Frame 100", Onkyo 818, Oppo BDP-103, Tivo Series 3, Xbox 360, Sealed Dual Sound Splinter RL-p 15" DIY sub powered by Behringer EP2500 with FBD, QSC RMX1400 powering LSi15, LSiC, LSiFX sides, and Lsi7 for the back, Technics SL-1200M3D -
nice help to me guys,
It's very difficult to decide between 2 nice floorstanders or 2 lsi9 on Sanus stands...
Walter Moser from polk said that in my square room, bass will be a problem like many square room. THe lsi9 and dsw500 sub is the best choice he said, because I can move my sub/speaker to lessen the effect of bad bass room and also play with the Pro EQ setting on the sub.
That sounds right to me, no ? -
polkseller wrote: »This room (14x14 feet) will serve mainly for music and some movies. Later next year, I will install all equipment downstair in the future home cinema room.
Presumable these speakers will move to the new room. What are the dimensions of that room going to be? So now you have to consider the trade off between sound this year and sound next year.Home Theatre: Epson 5020ub, Elite Screen Sable Frame 100", Onkyo 818, Oppo BDP-103, Tivo Series 3, Xbox 360, Sealed Dual Sound Splinter RL-p 15" DIY sub powered by Behringer EP2500 with FBD, QSC RMX1400 powering LSi15, LSiC, LSiFX sides, and Lsi7 for the back, Technics SL-1200M3D -
yep, cannot have 2 different complete system.
next year, I'll add something like a polk surrundbar to replace my audio system in the living room.
12x20 home theather room, 14x14 living room -
9's + Sub is working for me!:DThe Escape Pod Equipment
Samsung HL-S5679W
Sony STR-DA5200ES
Outlaw 7125
Sony 60GB PS3, Blu-ray Disc
TiVo Series 3 HD
Universal Remote Control MX-900
Polk Audio LSi9 ebony, fronts
Polk Audio LSiC, center
Polk Audio LC65i in wall, surrounds
SVS PB12-Plus Piano Black
Outlaw PCA interconnects
BetterCables for HDMI & SUB
Master Bedroom
Sony KDL-46XBR4
Sony 40GB PS3, 2nd Blu-Ray Disc
Polk Audio i-Sonic -
Presumable these speakers will move to the new room. What are the dimensions of that room going to be? So now you have to consider the trade off between sound this year and sound next year.
Thats my line of thinking. Purchase for the home theatre in the future. If you know you will be elevating the satelites (wall mounts), then go 9s all the way around with a pair of good subs.
My Home theatre uses 4 LSi15s and the LSiC. I had to go floorstanding due to the room dimensions.Do you hear that buzzing noise? -
2 subs ?? too complacated and 2 more chances to have in-room frequency cancelation no ?
I saw the naked LSI 15 on one post here, they look real good without the wood panels. They would be perfect looking in my living room.
I like to listen to music in stereo without a sub. The lsi 15 would be better for that but for the moment are not ''perfect'' for my square room and needs lots of power to shine... Next year, the lsi15 will fit my new room perfectly. Maybe I can buy the lsi 9 now with the lsi C and a quality sub and next year move the lsi 9 to the back and buy the lsi 15 ? -
With a quality sub, you wouldn't need to get LSi9s - if you're planning to go that route, I would get a pair of LSi7s.