Yard Sale Monitor 10B

powersjim
powersjim Posts: 8
edited January 2008 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
I picked up some pretty rough Montor 10Bs cheap and and trying to get them in working order. Does anyone have an idea why the passive radiators are not working?
Post edited by powersjim on
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    Passive radiators are just that, passive. There is no wiring/power going to them. The two mid range drivers move them. Are your mids working? If you GENTLY attempt to push on the mids, are any frozen, make a scratching noise?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    the tweeters and the mid range speaker seem to be working fine. But the passive radiators are static - no movement/vibration/sound at all as far as I can tell.
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  • jtgranby
    jtgranby Posts: 887
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    the tweeters and the mid range speaker seem to be working fine. But the passive radiators are static - no movement/vibration/sound at all as far as I can tell.

    What are using to drive them?? Do you hear any low end??

    Jim
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    It is a Kenwood receiver. I also hooked the up to an old Scott Integreated amp. I have had sporadic sound from the radiators, but today, nothing. The KW is about 50 wpc and the Scott amp is 120 wpc.
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  • DollarDave
    DollarDave Posts: 2,575
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    It is a Kenwood receiver. I also hooked the up to an old Scott Integreated amp. I have had sporadic sound from the radiators, but today, nothing. The KW is about 50 wpc and the Scott amp is 120 wpc.


    I'd say all three items are defective and you should send them to me for proper disposal.

    Hey, pull the passives out and inspect them. Pull the mid-ranges and inspect them. Push gently on the mids to see if there is any resistance, etc. Others will chime in with some troube-shooting, too, but if all else fails, call Polk customer service, they are REAL good. Even with vintage stuff.

    Congrates on a great find and we'll help you get them working. Welcome to the forum!.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2008
    Another good test is too push in on the passive radiator, and see if the mids move out quickly.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    I have cranked the bass on the amp way up and turned the volume up a pretty good bit that that radiator is doing nothing - no sound, no vibration if I put my fingers on it. It does move freely when I gently push it in. It does not seem to be frozen up. The 2 mids however seem incredibly tight. They move hardly at all when manipulated by my fingers. However when driving sound through them, they seem to be working fine.
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    also, if I push on the radiator, I cannot see that the mids are doing anything.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2008
    Sounds like you may have a leak..........
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    The 2 mids however seem incredibly tight. They move hardly at all when manipulated by my fingers. However when driving sound through them, they seem to be working fine.

    If they don't move freely when gently pushing on them with your fingers, you have a pair of bad drivers. bad drivers will produce sound, but not much, and definitely not bass. They will also not move enough to make the passive radiator work (move).
    Polk sells replacements.
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  • Mike Kozak
    Mike Kozak Posts: 931
    edited January 2008
    Yes, sounds like the mids may be frozen
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  • avguytx
    avguytx Posts: 1,628
    edited January 2008
    Maybe I missed it in the above posts but have you made absolutely sure you have them in phase when you're playing them? Take a small battery (AA, AAA, C, etc) and with a short speaker wire, pop them with the battery on the appropriate terminals i.e. + on battery to red on speaker, etc. This may seem trivial but it's a thought. Also, there's a chance someone unscrewed the red/black covers on the terminal cups and put one side on backwards. Who knows. On all the Polk speakers I can remember, the red terminal is on the left, black on the right...if you are facing the terminal cup.

    Then again, the magnets could be shifted from odd storage or something.
    Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.
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  • Mike Kozak
    Mike Kozak Posts: 931
    edited January 2008
    Good point Lasareath
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    Lasareath wrote: »
    Yeah, sounds like somebody cut a port to let the bass out!, LOL


    So we are not supposed to install a port in these speakers?????:confused:
















    ......just kidding..:p
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    I am a complete novice to Polk & passive radiators. It sound to me like the most likely culprit of my problem is that the box is not completely sealed. So....I need the box to completely air tight - right? I know when I pulled the drivers out to inspect them, they were sealed in the there very well. I had to actually pry them out. So I need to put on some sort of adhesive when I reinstall the drivers?
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  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2008
    they do need to be as air tight as possible.. is the surround on the passive torn or cut in any way? It does seem like there is an air leak somewhere.

    press on the passive in the center of it as long as you don't damage anything.. gently push it inward.. and the two 6.5" mid bass drivers should push out with the pressure.. if they don't.. they yeah. you have an air leak somewhere.

    does this happen to both speakers? it would be very unusual if it happen to both.. if it did.. then someone has prob modded them at some point.

    can you post a picture of both of them for us without the grills on ?
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    2 reasons for no bass.

    1. Midbass drivers are frozzen. Most common problem. Push on the midbass drivers and they feel if they are stuck.
    2. Air leak in cabinet. Very unlikely for both, unless they have been tampered with. polk has a great seal on those speakers that last for years and years. If the speakers have not been tampered with , then this problem is very rare.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    The 2 mids however seem incredibly tight. They move hardly at all when manipulated by my fingers. However when driving sound through them, they seem to be working fine.

    Frozen drivers.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
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  • powersjim
    powersjim Posts: 8
    edited January 2008
    What is the solution for frozen drivers? replace?
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    What is the solution for frozen drivers? replace?

    http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/service/models/modelpartslist.php3?model=monitor

    Call them, tell them what you need, tel lthem you are a club member, $48 per driver.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    powersjim wrote: »
    What is the solution for frozen drivers? replace?


    Defrost them....










    ...just kidding, replace
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2008
    replace the drivers.. only if they are bad.. take each one out.. and hook it up to your receiver via speaker wires at low volumes.. you'll know right away if it's bad.. if it's bad, it will sound bad.. you can do the same thing for the tweeters just to be sure.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    danger boy wrote: »
    they do need to be as air tight as possible..
    Just a word of caution, the screw holes strip easily since there are no metal inserts. So make sure the screws are very snug, but don't go nuts tightening them.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2008
    And....no glue, or you'll love it the next time you need/want to take them out. The stock gasket is all you need.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
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