5JR+ Tweeter verification
Windwalker
Posts: 46
I believe I'm right but just double checking
My original pair of 5JR+(the difference between the 5JR and the 5JR+ model is that the original JRs did not have a bass radiator)
My question is about the tweeters
I believe this should be an SL2000
and
It appears to be a damaged SL2000, correct?
Wonder if it affects SQ at all?
also Wonder if I might be able to pull it back out with a vacuum cleaner or maybe a turkey baster
I also acquired a used pair over the weekend($30) and upon closer inspection, one of the black coverings(wire) to the tweeter is coming up. Speaker works fine, just wondering if I can take a dab of glue(crazy ok?) and tack this back down
for future reference
peerless=SL1000 (wires on side point at an angle)
SL2000=Wires are straight across(clear dome)
SL2500=Wires are straight across(black dome)
Thanks
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My original pair of 5JR+(the difference between the 5JR and the 5JR+ model is that the original JRs did not have a bass radiator)
My question is about the tweeters
I believe this should be an SL2000
and
It appears to be a damaged SL2000, correct?
Wonder if it affects SQ at all?
also Wonder if I might be able to pull it back out with a vacuum cleaner or maybe a turkey baster
I also acquired a used pair over the weekend($30) and upon closer inspection, one of the black coverings(wire) to the tweeter is coming up. Speaker works fine, just wondering if I can take a dab of glue(crazy ok?) and tack this back down
for future reference
peerless=SL1000 (wires on side point at an angle)
SL2000=Wires are straight across(clear dome)
SL2500=Wires are straight across(black dome)
Thanks
\\//\\//
Some of the worst wrongs get righted on three cords
Post edited by Windwalker on
Comments
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Peerless were HL1000, black face plate with hole in middle of black dome.
The Polk SL1000, have a silver face plate. With PolkAudio scribed on theme.
Sonicly completely different tweets.
Yes yours are damaged. The curvature of the dome, in its original form, produces a responce that is accurate to the maker. Different than a pushed in cone on a woofer, a tweeter with a pushed in cone, wil effect the sound.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
You could unscrew the 4 screws, releasing the plate from the magnet, and push the tweet out. I find this better than using a mechanical devise.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Click this thread for possible ways to suck out the dome:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62319 -
Looks like a metal dome, which is making me cringe.
I've repaired the same type of 'pushed in' tweeter, but the dome was rubberized. The reason it has that shape is because there is another dome behind the one seen. Therefore, taking it apart will likely be a waste of time.
Best of luck, I personally feel it cannot be restored with parts on hand. -
Click this thread for possible ways to suck out the dome:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62319
Thanks
Lips to the dome method(man, there are JUST SOOOO many ways this sounds wrong) worked fairly well
now, about gluing down the black coating(wire?) om the newer pair I got
(yes I'm going to re-do both of these one day) But my accountants( Dewey, Cheatum and Howe) said no more funds for Mancave things for a whileSome of the worst wrongs get righted on three cords -
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It's an sl2000 tweeter the dome material is not metal or silk it's a semi-rigid and flexible polymer type material. I suspect if you pull the dome off using the 4 screws that fluid will leak out since the voice coil is liquid cooled.
Used sl2000 tweeters are FS here all the time for a very reasonable price or the alternative is to purchase a pair of RD0194-1 silk dome replacement tweeters from Polk. Those are drop in and are much better sounding (IMO) than the original sl2000's
Tell them you are Polk member and the cost is ~$102/PR shipped 2 day Fed Ex to your door.
There is no other Polk tweeter new or used that will work properly and give you the sound the speaker was designed for.
Good luck
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!