signal processor??

daniel_paul_

I was flipping through crutchfield and saw these signal processors like the MTX RE-Q5. I did not find any threads on them. Does anyone have thoughts or experience with these?

I am installing an amp, components up front and coax in the rear doors of an 05' subaru wrx wagon. I have a line level converter I was planning on using. (My older Pioneer amp doesn't have line levels) But would this make a real improvement in sound. The only thing I do not like is the size. If I want front and rear output is is 10 1/2" long.

Greg Peters

Factory head units (which I believe you intend to use) often cut bass, midbass frequencies as the volume level goes up- are designed with an EQ curve built-in, to prevent the factory speakers from blowing up and incurring a warranty claim. Just using a LOC won't prevent the equalization in the head unit from "doing it's thing" and sending the modified signal to your amps downstream...you'll still see lower frequencies cut as volume rises, and output from your aftermarket speakers and sub(s) will be reduced at louder listening levels.

Products like JL's Cleansweep, RF's 3Sixty.1/3Sixty.2, and the RE-Q (and others coming soon from the Harmon Group, possibly JBL-branded) are meant to correct the equalization curve found in most factory head units, allowing you to get the most out of aftermarket products connected downstream. If you're bent on keeping the factory head unit (or have one that would be impossible to replace gracefully, with other accessories built in), products like this are a good idea. If you're dealing with a car that takes well to a HU swap using a standard single or double DIN slot, I'd rather replace the head unit than go that route, unless you need the advanced processing you'd find in something like the 3Sixty.2.

daniel_paul_

I follow you on the theory. But do they work? I am keepind the factory headunit. The MTX seems to fit my need. This is new to me and I feel like I am pissin' in the wind a bit. I wonder if the unit corrects individual signals or just boosts the bass at a pre-set level. On the other hand that may still be better then the LOC.

MacLeod

The JL Audio Cleansweep is the best IMO. It takes the factory signal and flattens the factory EQ curve and then bumps the signal 8 volts for a nice clean signal to your amps. So the answer is that some work better than others, but they do make a difference.

Greg Peters

daniel_paul_ wrote: »

I follow you on the theory. But do they work? I am keepind the factory headunit. The MTX seems to fit my need. This is new to me and I feel like I am pissin' in the wind a bit. I wonder if the unit corrects individual signals or just boosts the bass at a pre-set level. On the other hand that may still be better then the LOC.

You could always try the LOC first, but I believe the Re-Q has crossover functions and seperate outputs for use with multiple amps. It was reviewed a few issues ago in Car Audio & Electronics magazine.

If you choose the JL Cleansweep option, I believe you initially set things up with the factory HU at a specific volume level, and are then required to use the volume control on the Cleansweep instead of the HU's for subsequent use so as not to screw up the calibration of Cleansweep to the system.

exalted512

JL is an overpriced LOC/line driver. Who wouldve thought JL would be overpriced?

Anyway, the JL has 2 outputs, front and rear. Want to run a sub? You have to split the signal. Like mentioned, you also cant use your volume knob on the radio.

The RF 360, on the other hand, has the tuning capabilities of a mid-high end aftermarket radio, has the same summing capabilities of the JL, has front, rear, sub, and center channel outputs, you can use your regular volume knob, AND does this at the same price as the JL.
-Cody

daniel_paul_

I want to use the head unit volume and do not want a sub. A seporate volume knob sounds half assed. I have read some complaints about the RF. And you need a seporate blue tooth attachment with a computer to hook it up. My goal is improved sound with moderate effort. The RF is starting down the irritating road.

MacLeod

Greg Peters wrote: »

If you choose the JL Cleansweep option, I believe you initially set things up with the factory HU at a specific volume level, and are then required to use the volume control on the Cleansweep instead of the HU's for subsequent use so as not to screw up the calibration of Cleansweep to the system.

You dont have to use the JL volume. You do set it up with a calibration disc and at a certain volume but if you dont want to use the JL volume, you can use the factory volume but you wont get the best signal to noise that way.

exalted512

daniel_paul_ wrote: »

I want to use the head unit volume and do not want a sub. A seporate volume knob sounds half assed. I have read some complaints about the RF. And you need a seporate blue tooth attachment with a computer to hook it up. My goal is improved sound with moderate effort. The RF is starting down the irritating road.

The only complaints I've heard is about noise. Ive set up 10+ including the 360.2 in my truck and if setup improperly, youll get noise, otherwise, you wont...at least in my personal experience.

You dont have to hook it up to the bluetooth, only if you want to tune it. You still have a piece that has more inputs and outputs than the cleansweep...and the possibility of tuning it later. If you have a laptop, you can buy a $20 BT dongle to control it with.
-Cody

GSRBOB

What about Audiocontrol's DQL-8? Anybody have experience with it?