More Electrical Questions...

phuz
phuz Posts: 2,372
edited January 2008 in The Clubhouse
Since we're talking about power... although my questions aren't as urgent as others! ;)

I noticed that the panel in my house has all 10a breakers. Is this normal/standard? What would the effect be if I replaced one or all with a 20a breaker?

I ask this because when I plugged my B&K 200.2 S2 in for the first time, it tripped the breaker. Not even turning it on, just plugging the darn thing in tripped the breaker. I reset the breaker and all is well, but I'd like to replace it with a higher amp breaker if I can.

This circuit has everything in my home office, guest bath, and laundry room on it. I'm going to get a deticated circuit when I get a chance... but will replacing the 10a with a 20a help? Should I replace the rest of the breakers with 15a breakers?
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    10 amp does seem alittle small. When connecting multiple sorces to a single breaker, unless its just lightbulbs, I would use nothing smaller than 20-30 amp breakers..
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited January 2008
    Electrical code calls for a minimum of 15 amp for lighting circuits. Anything with outlets should have 20 amp. I wouldn't upgrade those breakers without verifying that the wire can support the extra load. Remember, the breakers are there to keep you from overloading the wire. If your wire is not of sufficient gauge, then you risk in in-wall fire, which is not fun at all!
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  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,220
    edited January 2008
    nadams wrote: »
    Electrical code calls for a minimum of 15 amp for lighting circuits. Anything with outlets should have 20 amp. I wouldn't upgrade those breakers without verifying that the wire can support the extra load. Remember, the breakers are there to keep you from overloading the wire. If your wire is not of sufficient gauge, then you risk in in-wall fire, which is not fun at all!

    I'm sure this is a dumb question, but how would you verify that the wire can support the extra load? I'm looking to move from 15 amp to 20 amp on two circuits.

    Thanks.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    I'm sure this is a dumb question, but how would you verify that the wire can support the extra load? I'm looking to move from 15 amp to 20 amp on two circuits.

    Thanks.

    Call an electrician. But:

    http://www.greatinspector.com/faq-elec-wiresize.html

    And the wire should be clearly marked on the shielding.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited January 2008
    Your breaker rating is based on expected load and gauge of wiring used in the walls. You'd have to verify that your wiring can handle a higher amperage circuit before replacing them with a higher value breaker. 10amp circuits seem very odd....
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2008
    Never replace a breaker with one of a higher rating unless you can verify that the wire is capable of handling the extra amperage.

    As a result, I would recommend against replacing the breakers with 20A ones. For example, if the wire is #14AWG, then putting in the 20A breaker will result in no fire protection and is very dangerous.
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  • phuz
    phuz Posts: 2,372
    edited January 2008
    nadams wrote: »
    Electrical code calls for a minimum of 15 amp for lighting circuits.

    Verrrrrrrry interesting. Let me double check when I get the chance (won't be home for another 2 weeks), but as I remember it yes... they're all 10a.

    This house was built in 2004, so if they're all 10a are you saying it wasn't built to code or that I might have a bigger issue here than just some small breakers? The builder was DR Horton, and I expect that they would build things right.

    Thanks folks, I won't do anything until I get inspect further and get more info.
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  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited January 2008
    yea, I have not seen 10 amp breakers on a circuit since the old screw in fuses.

    you can measure the thickness of the wire at the box or outlet if you cannot read the wire type on the jacketing. You need 14 guage wire to carry a 15 amp load.

    RT1
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Call an electrician. But:

    http://www.greatinspector.com/faq-elec-wiresize.html

    And the wire should be clearly marked on the shielding.

    Any questions on AWG and breakers, see my link.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2008
    10amp breaker and the house was built in 2004 :confused: Was this house rebuild in 2004, so its a really old house electric system. The last time I seen 10amp they where a screw fuse, and the main whole house was 30amp maybe 50amp but I think really 30amp. This was the house that I lived in when I was a kid 35 years ago.

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  • phuz
    phuz Posts: 2,372
    edited January 2008
    OK thanks guys. Maybe what I saw was wrong... at the time I was just wanting to get my amp on and start listening. :) I swear I saw a 10 on them though.. but I'll double check. This thread is officially put on standby until I can get my eyeballs on the panel again! Thanks again.
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited January 2008
    Maybe a pic of the panel would be helpful to us.

    Some breakers are two small 10amp throws in a single breaker position. Kind of hard to explain.
    Ludicrous gibs!
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  • phuz
    phuz Posts: 2,372
    edited January 2008
    Ok I just talked to the pseudo-girlfriend at home and she says they're all 15s and 20s, so I was either blind or in too much of a rush to get back to the B&K... disregard this thread! :o
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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2008
    Ok what did we learned you need "Glasses" LOL :D

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    You big Phuz......:D

    Still a problem if your system is tripping breakers...
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • phuz
    phuz Posts: 2,372
    edited January 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    You big Phuz......:D

    Still a problem if your system is tripping breakers...

    Well, the amplifier has a 70 amp rating. It only tripped the breaker when I plugged it in. After a reset I was able to play the system. Haven't really cranked it yet, but it's a small room. Will be home in a couple of weeks to check it out and maybe get a deticated 20 amp circuit.

    Will be getting one of these as well....

    http://www.equitech.com/products/rack/sonofqav.html

    Crap... does that say that the Jr. has a 10 amp circuit? So it limits the current...???
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    Pluging the amp in, with it on? Still, just plugging it in shouldnt draw that much current to trip a 15a breaker.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • phuz
    phuz Posts: 2,372
    edited January 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Pluging the amp in, with it on? Still, just plugging it in shouldnt draw that much current to trip a 15a breaker.

    Nope, off. Maybe it tripped when I turned it on... I forgot. Either way it's working now, I just want to make sure there is plenty of current available and get some power protection and conditioning.
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  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2008
    phuz wrote: »
    Ok I just talked to the pseudo-girlfriend at home and she says they're all 15s and 20s, so I was either blind or in too much of a rush to get back to the B&K... disregard this thread! :o

    Aha, so then you should be fine. Maybe consider some dedicated circuits?
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
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