Looking at some SDA(s), should I????

heiney9

danger boy wrote: »

high 5, finally someone making sense.. i knew they were 2B's. but does anyone listen to me??? :rolleyes:

I'm always listening DB .

Marty913

danger boy wrote: »

high 5, finally someone making sense.. i knew they were 2B's. but does anyone listen to me??? :rolleyes:

Did you say something ?:rolleyes:

Windwalker

Picture of Speakers are HERE

I think the "B" on the back maybe even more of a clue as to what they really are

They are wood tops, painted black.
Serial number is 21397

Do all these have cloth inserts on both sides?

So final agreement is that these are 2B studios-correct???

heiney9

Some of the very late run 2's and 1's had a sticker on the label (added after the fact). My 1C's have a "C" sticker as well but you don't often see that.

Those are "regular" 2B's and someone painted those end caps. If Polk had offered "black ash" from the factory (for non-studio models) they would have been laminated not painted.

You got a good deal on a great speaker. With a little TLC and some future upgrades (tweeters and x-over) you will have a speaker not many manufacturer's today could touch.

H9

heiney9

Windwalker wrote: »

Do all these have cloth inserts on both sides?

So final agreement is that these are 2B studios-correct???

Yes they have cloth inserts that can be very very carefully removed if they need to be re-clothed. They are glued on and it takes great care and patience to remove them without damaging them. It is common for this age of speaker for them to start to pull away around the edges.

No they are not Studio's. They are the slightly more expensive regular cabs with the end caps painted by a former owner.

H9

Also note the studio version(s) don't have the cloth side inserts among a few other visual things.

Windwalker

heiney9 wrote: »

Yes they have cloth inserts that can be very very carefully removed if they need to be re-clothed. They are glued on and it takes great care and patience to remove them without damaging them. It is common for this age of speaker for them to start to pull away around the edges.

No they are not Studio's. They are the slightly more expensive regular cabs with the end caps painted by a former owner.

And they did a fine job, I see no drips\runs\overspray ANYwhere(is it possible they were stained black from Polk?)

H9

heiney9 wrote: »

Also note the studio version(s) don't have the cloth side inserts among a few other visual things.

cloth is in Great shape, slightly loose at one corner only

Windwalker

I'm going to hook these up to my Yamaha HTR5460(for now) on the B main side
It's rated as follows-
Min RMS @.06 THD, 20HZ-20kHZ
100W+100W 8ohm

edited to add
Minimum RMS Output Power per Channel MAIN, 1kHz, 0.09% THD, 8 ohms - 110W + 110W
CENTER, 1kHz, 0.09% THD, 8 ohms - 110W
REAR, 1kHz, 0.09% THD, 8 ohms - 110W + 110W
Dynamic Power per Channel MAIN, 8/6/4/2 ohms - 130/150/190/240W


These are 4ohm speakers-correct?

My AVR has an impedance selector switch with the following

To the Left
Main-If you use one set of main speakers, the impedance of each speaker must be 4ohm or higher.
If you use 2 sets of main speakers, the impedance of each speaker must be 8 or higher
Center Impedance must be 6ohm or higher
Rear the impedance must be 6ohm or higher

To the right
Main-If you use one set of main speakers, the impedance of each speaker must be 8ohm or higher.
If you use 2 sets of main speakers, the impedance of each speaker must be 16 or higher
Center Impedance must be 8ohm or higher
Rear the impedance must be 8ohm or higher

Currently switch is set to the right

I need to change this to the left position and make darn sure I don't ever have both A&B selected.

switching to the left will not affect current set-up (5jrs-rear,R50-mains,sub-M&K V75,center-CS101)
Just don't crank it quite as hard