CSI A6 question

sdcfan19
sdcfan19 Posts: 56
edited December 2007 in Speakers
Just bought this last week and noticed today that there is a little crackling when the highs happen in movies. Is this normal? During normal speech the speaker is fine. I'm pushing it with a Pioneer VSX-1017. Should I exchange it for a new one or just leave it? Like I said, it only happens during the highest of highs.
Samsung Plasma (50A530)
Bell ExpressVu 6100
Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
PlayStation 3
Harman Kardon AVR 354
Polk CSi A6 Center
Polk RTi10 Fronts
Polk M20 Rears
D-Box Sub
Harmony 880
Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
Post edited by sdcfan19 on

Comments

  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited December 2007
    does it happen in all movies? or just one movie in particular? I had the same problem with my center channel on a movie.. weirdest thing.. just that one movie and I never had the problem again. just when watching that certain movie.

    also, does this crackle happen in lower volume or just higher volume?
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    Seems to be just during the loud parts and just happened for the first time tonight. It was a movie that I had never watched before, and had never happened with other flicks. I'll watch something else tomorrow and see if it happen again. Thanks for the help.
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited December 2007
    Happened to me on Transformers, thought something was blown, but its in the film itself. Check different movies and see if you get the same result.
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    I've just done the auto calibration with the Pioneer that I haven't done since I got rid of my LSiC. Since this is a new speaker (Ohms, wattage, material, etc) I figured that the settings would be a little different with this one. I've done the setup and listened to it a little and things sound better. Is this possible or just me hearing what I want to hear?
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    Just watched Hannibal Rising. Disappointing movie, but good for testing the sound. Everything seems to be fixed...everyone can now carry on with their lives as usual! Thanks for the help folks.
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited December 2007
    Glad you got it all figured out SD! Enjoy your system.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • wallstreet
    wallstreet Posts: 1,405
    edited December 2007
    These speakers will play very loud. If a driver is blown, you should notice very quickly.
  • Pepi28
    Pepi28 Posts: 248
    edited December 2007
    sdcfan19 wrote: »
    I've just done the auto calibration with the Pioneer that I haven't done since I got rid of my LSiC. Since this is a new speaker (Ohms, wattage, material, etc) I figured that the settings would be a little different with this one. I've done the setup and listened to it a little and things sound better. Is this possible or just me hearing what I want to hear?[/QUOTE

    Why did you get rid of your LsiC? Just wondering.
    58" Samsung Plasma (on wall)(calibrated)
    LSi15's front (modded xo's)
    LSic center
    LSiFX's sides
    LSi7's rears
    Sunfire Sig. 600 amp for 15's
    Sunfire Sig. Cinema for C,S&R
    Sony ES 3000 pre/pro
    SVS 2039 PC Plus sub 12.3 (16hz tune)
    PS3
    Wii
    Signal and Audioquest ic's
    12 awg monster speaker-cable (bi-wired)
    Belkin PF60 power conditioner
    Monster power conditioner for sub
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    Pepi28 wrote: »
    Why did you get rid of your LsiC? Just wondering.

    I didn't have a 4 Ohms receiver plus I am using RTi10's which aren't timber matched to the LSi line (looking at your sig, I'm sure you know all of this). I was skeptical going to a speaker that was $200 cheaper. My thoughts were that a more expensive speaker should sound better. I found out this was way off. The CSi A6 is close to the towers in terms of sound, thus giving me a solid sound stage.

    Update: I've done some more testing just to make sure that I'm not going mental and hearing things. I played the part in Spider Man 3 where Kirstian Dunst (sp?) is singing in the play (about 6 min into the movie) and had the sound turned to about -10dB. This is much louder than my regular -25dB to -20dB and listened with my ear right against the speaker. No problems at all. I also set the AVR to STEREO and listened to just the fronts. Again, very clean and crisp. I assume that pushing the speakers a little more with a listening position of inches would point out any tweeter damage. Is this correct? As some know from other posts, I'm just getting into my HT and must be trying too hard to hear pops, clips, and other garbage. Anyone else with this problem ? :)
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    Played around with this a little more tonight as I still felt there was more to be had out of my system. I was flipping through the AVR manual and got to the last page that gave instructions for impedance. I figured I would take a look to see if it was set to 6 ohms or 8 ohms. Sure enough, it was set to 6. I've read in the past that using 8ohms speakers with 6ohms amp isn't really a big deal but the sound from the system tonight leads me to believe otherwise. The difference was remarkable (at least in IMO, as well as the wifes). Funny how something as small as that setting gave me so much aggravation. Just one of those amature moments that we all have while learning I guess.
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling
  • wallstreet
    wallstreet Posts: 1,405
    edited December 2007
    Interesting. I would have thought switching from 6 to 8 would have had an opposite effect.
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited December 2007
    the ohm rating is reistance to current flow. If there is not enough resistance, current demand could out pace your amps ability to supply it and cause excessive heat or possibly shut down the amp. (via heat or protection circuitry)

    The swich on the back of the avr limits the amount of power the amp can produce to keep this shutdown from happening. When in the lower ohm setting (wheter 6 or 4) the amp produces less total power. This keeps it within design limits, when your speakers demand more current. In some designs, it may produce significantly less. Think of it as the reverse effect of adding an amp to your system.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • wallstreet
    wallstreet Posts: 1,405
    edited December 2007
    The reason some manufacturers rate their AVR's at 6 Ohms is to inflate the power capabilities of their amps. So if you run your amp at 6 ohms, your are increasing the power output. A good measure of an amp is how close the power doubles going from 8 to 4 ohms. This is where the Sunfire amps are so amazing. They simply double the power. So if 2 receivers are rated at 100 WPC and one was measured at 6 ohms and the other was measured at 8 ohms, I would buy the 8 ohm receiver.
  • sdcfan19
    sdcfan19 Posts: 56
    edited December 2007
    I don't really understand what ohms are or what it does (thanks for doing your best to explain) but I do know that it sounds MUCH better now. Thanks for the input guys.
    Samsung Plasma (50A530)
    Bell ExpressVu 6100
    Toshiba PRV (RD-SX35SU)
    Pioneer DVD w/upconvert (DV-490V)
    PlayStation 3
    Harman Kardon AVR 354
    Polk CSi A6 Center
    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk M20 Rears
    D-Box Sub
    Harmony 880
    Acoustic Research/Rocketfish cabling