Specs for multiple SDA models/Home Theater Design
movtarget
Posts: 125
I'm honing in on the initial physical design for my home theater addition. Looks like I'm going to use the SRS pair I bought off ebay from a nice fella up in PA, and a pair of SRS 2.3tls for the 'front three'. (more on that in a minute)
I'm using SDA 2's (originals with 3 mid-woofs and 2 tweeters) for either side or rear surrounds, and a pair of Studio SDA 2a's I bought from a nice craigslister in Atlanta for either side or rear surrounds.
I am actually going to design the physical space of the addition to be best for home theater, 2-channel audio will be a secondary priority. I'm going with either Outlaw 7.1, or Yamaha's new flagship (RX-Z11) and 11.2 (will need to figure out which vintage Polks will work for the 'presence', but that's another post). I'm going with a 12-14' wide acoustically transparent screen (already have the SMX screen material) in 2.35:1 anamorphic front projector setup.
Where I need input from this knowledgeable crowd (couldn't find absolute specs for some of the nominal impedences):
1) Use 2.3tl pair as right and left and 1 SRS as center?
2) Reverse that, and use 1 2.3tl as center?
3) Either of the above, but put the secondary center pair smack up against each other (mids about 4 inches apart) and have two centers - concerned about cancellation, though
4) Does it matter which of the 2's or 2a's go on the side versus the rear surrounds?
5) I'm going to have 8? ohm speakers (2.3tl), 4? ohm speakers (2a), 6? ohm speakers (2), and 4? ohm speakers (SRS), is that a problem for quality amps?
How will I know as I narrow down Yamaha vs. Outlaw (or both if I use the Yamaha as a pre-amp/processor)?
6) None of these have the upgraded tweets, use the same replacement tweet across all (not the right upgrade for some of the models if all are the same) or the right 'latest' for each model?
7) Upgrade crossovers in the SRS definitely, what about the 2.3tl, 2, and 2a?
8) Room dimensions will probably be 18' x 30' with risers for 2nd and 3rd row, ceiling height about 13' at screen floor, 10' at 3rd row (same level as connecting kitchen/sunroom). Put the 2's higher in the side/rear columns and invert them to get the mids in the right place, and the bass energy from the radiators away from the viewers?
9) Anybody want to help once it's shelled in about a year from now?
Plan to use a pair of the SVS 16/46 cylinders for subwoofers.
Two years from now would be a good time for a Polkfest in southern Raleigh, if all goes as planned.
Thanks in advance for advice/input.
Movtarget in NC
I'm using SDA 2's (originals with 3 mid-woofs and 2 tweeters) for either side or rear surrounds, and a pair of Studio SDA 2a's I bought from a nice craigslister in Atlanta for either side or rear surrounds.
I am actually going to design the physical space of the addition to be best for home theater, 2-channel audio will be a secondary priority. I'm going with either Outlaw 7.1, or Yamaha's new flagship (RX-Z11) and 11.2 (will need to figure out which vintage Polks will work for the 'presence', but that's another post). I'm going with a 12-14' wide acoustically transparent screen (already have the SMX screen material) in 2.35:1 anamorphic front projector setup.
Where I need input from this knowledgeable crowd (couldn't find absolute specs for some of the nominal impedences):
1) Use 2.3tl pair as right and left and 1 SRS as center?
2) Reverse that, and use 1 2.3tl as center?
3) Either of the above, but put the secondary center pair smack up against each other (mids about 4 inches apart) and have two centers - concerned about cancellation, though
4) Does it matter which of the 2's or 2a's go on the side versus the rear surrounds?
5) I'm going to have 8? ohm speakers (2.3tl), 4? ohm speakers (2a), 6? ohm speakers (2), and 4? ohm speakers (SRS), is that a problem for quality amps?
How will I know as I narrow down Yamaha vs. Outlaw (or both if I use the Yamaha as a pre-amp/processor)?
6) None of these have the upgraded tweets, use the same replacement tweet across all (not the right upgrade for some of the models if all are the same) or the right 'latest' for each model?
7) Upgrade crossovers in the SRS definitely, what about the 2.3tl, 2, and 2a?
8) Room dimensions will probably be 18' x 30' with risers for 2nd and 3rd row, ceiling height about 13' at screen floor, 10' at 3rd row (same level as connecting kitchen/sunroom). Put the 2's higher in the side/rear columns and invert them to get the mids in the right place, and the bass energy from the radiators away from the viewers?
9) Anybody want to help once it's shelled in about a year from now?
Plan to use a pair of the SVS 16/46 cylinders for subwoofers.
Two years from now would be a good time for a Polkfest in southern Raleigh, if all goes as planned.
Thanks in advance for advice/input.
Movtarget in NC
Post edited by movtarget on
Comments
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How about my primary question:
I have original SRS and SRS 2.3tl. Which one should be the center speaker and which one should be the right-left mains pair in a 7.1 setup (all three fronts will be behind an acoustically transparent screen)?
Using SDA 2s as side/back surrounds.
Movtarget in post egg-nog funk -
The SL2000 tweeters in your SRS, SDA 2 and SDA 2A are not the best timbre match with the SL3000 tweeters in your SDA 2.3TL.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I suggest you use the "best" speakers for the main (front) left and right. Then when you're into 2-channel mode, you've automatically using the best speakers. Decide which of those are the "best sounding" and go from there.1) Use 2.3tl pair as right and left and 1 SRS as center? 2) Reverse that, and use 1 2.3tl as center?
I would certainly try that. Center channel is "mono" so there'll be no SDA effect--no need to even connect the cable between the speakers. If you do use only one of the pair, remember that you need to acoustically center the speaker--not visually center it. The main drivers in the SDA speakers are offset to one side of the cabinet--if the cabinet looks centered, the drivers won't be.3) Either of the above, but put the secondary center pair smack up against each other (mids about 4 inches apart) and have two centers - concerned about cancellation, though
I'd put the best-sounding ones on the side rather than the rear.4) Does it matter which of the 2's or 2a's go on the side versus the rear surrounds?
NOT AT ALL. You're going to balance the sound pressure levels anyway; and a quality amp will have NO problem with a 4-ohm (nominal) load.5) I'm going to have 8? ohm speakers (2.3tl), 4? ohm speakers (2a), 6? ohm speakers (2), and 4? ohm speakers (SRS), is that a problem for quality amps?
My impression--and I could be wrong--is that Yamaha USED to be a quality Japanese import; they like Sony have thrown that reputation away with both hands in favor of low-budget CRAP mostly sourced from "not-Japan"; typically Communist China. Communist China can't make toothpaste, dog-food-filler, or paint toys and get it right, why would you think they can make something sophisticated? I bought a Yamaha DVD player; it's garbage and I hate it. The H-K it replaced wasn't much better.How will I know as I narrow down Yamaha vs. Outlaw (or both if I use the Yamaha as a pre-amp/processor)?
Outlaw gets good press; but again the actual product comes from less-than-reputable sources that have contracted to slap the Outlaw name on it.
Be very careful selecting your electronics. It's a big world filled to the brim with junk in impressive boxes.
My choice--which doesn't have to be YOUR choice--was to buy "real" amps, used, on eBay and Audiogon; and drive them with a closeout Aragon Stage One processor. The prices were good, the electronics are good, the sound is good--but of course there was no warranty and some risk with the used amps.
Use the right replacement parts for the model.6) None of these have the upgraded tweets, use the same replacement tweet across all (not the right upgrade for some of the models if all are the same) or the right 'latest' for each model?
As money doesn't seem to be a huge factor, I'd upgrade ALL the crossovers. Doubly so if you can do it yourself. Even if you have to contract the work, just getting the old capacitors out of the signal path has got to be a good thing.7) Upgrade crossovers in the SRS definitely, what about the 2.3tl, 2, and 2a?
Spend some time with a standing-wave-prediction computer program to minimize standing waves and the bass cancellation that creates. Still, none of your dimensions are multiples of another--except the 10' part of the room would be 1/3 of the 30' dimension.8) Room dimensions will probably be 18' x 30' with risers for 2nd and 3rd row, ceiling height about 13' at screen floor, 10' at 3rd row (same level as connecting kitchen/sunroom). Put the 2's higher in the side/rear columns and invert them to get the mids in the right place, and the bass energy from the radiators away from the viewers?
There's also the whole "Live End/Dead End" acoustic treatment which would be good to investigate before you actually build the thing.
I've heard that solid (concrete) walls can nicely reinforce bass; at least you seal the room so those in the rest of the house don't have to be annoyed at high volume levels. I had a solid-core (exterior-style) door installed for that same reason--if I want to listen loud, it won't disturb the spousal-unit upstairs.
If you HAVE to use stud-walls, go with "2X6" rather than "2X4". I have two 'crete walls and a 'crete floor, and two stud walls and the stud ceiling filled with fiberglass insulation and acoustic tile on the ceiling as well.
Don't forget to have "lots of electricity" pulled into that room; I have six circuits of 15 or 20 amps for electronics; all fed by 10 gauge wire. There's a seventh 15-amp circuit for lights and "normal" outlets.
Now's the time to figure out logical placement for future upgrades--I always bury extra cable and outlet boxes in the walls for future use of telephone, cable TV, intercom, internet, etc.
Enjoy!Plan to use a pair of the SVS 16/46 cylinders for subwoofers.
Two years from now would be a good time for a Polkfest in southern Raleigh, if all goes as planned.
Thanks in advance for advice/input.
Movtarget in NC -
I agree that the center channel is mono but you still need to use the interconnect to get all the drivers to work.
I would probably use the original SDA2's for the side and the SDA2a's for the center. I think the dimensional tweeter would maybe add something on the sides. Although I would definately try both.
The 2.3's in my opinion would be better for the rears and then use the SDA2 a's for your center with the interconnect.
And keep the SRS's for the fronts. You will have a better timbre match for your front stage.
If money isn't a problem I would change all the tweeters and upgrade the crossovers.
If you want to start slower I would replace the tweeters in the older models first. Both of the replacement silk tweeters are much more similar in sound than the SL1000, SL2000 and SL3000 would ever be. IMHO. You could also disconnect the dimensional tweeter in thge Original SDA2's and they would sound alot like the 2A's.
