Dedicated power line?

thuchien
thuchien Posts: 103
I am planning to run a line from power in basement to HT room upstairs using 10 gauge weather water roof from Home Depot and hospital rate receptacle. Do you have any suggestion for me before I start?

Thanks
Sony 60" XBR2
PIONEER SC 05
Samsung BD-UP 5000

7.1 SETUP
Infinity P-FR with 12" build in sub
Infinity P-CC
4 Infinity P QPS
Kef sub 4000

pure av PF60
3 cobalt speaker cables
Post edited by thuchien on

Comments

  • Lowell_M
    Lowell_M Posts: 1,660
    edited December 2007
    thuchien wrote: »
    I am planning to run a line from power in basement to HT room upstairs using 10 gauge weather water roof from Home Depot and hospital rate receptacle. Do you have any suggestion for me before I start?

    Thanks

    I have not played with different power options very much for my HT, so I dont' have any first hand experience.... So, I'll probably get my a$$ kicked for saying this, but...

    In my opinion you won't be able to do much that will audibly change your HT performance by using special wire and a special outlet from your main box. Dirty power will remain dirty power coming into your house no matter how high of quality the last 50 ft. of power cable is. Where I think you probably gain the most is having a high quality power cable AFTER the power has gone through a power conditioner, which would only be a cord from your AMP to the conditioner. I'm not saying don't do what you are planning. I do think it is good to have the HT equipment on a seperate circuit. Just consider the diminishing returns as you spend more money on this circuit. Consider what you would be spending your $$'s on in your rig instead.

    I could be very wrong, but this seems like an easier debate than the IC or Speaker Cable dabate.

    I'm not a cable hater......:eek:
    HT
    RTi70 mains
    CSi30 center
    RTi28 Rears
    Velodyne CHT-12
    H/K AVR-247
    ADCOM GFA-7000
    Samsung PN58B860
    Playstation 3

    2-Channel
    Polk Audio LSi15's
    Rotel RCD-1072
    Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
    ADCOM GFA-555
    Signal Cable Analog II IC's
    Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
  • avguytx
    avguytx Posts: 1,628
    edited December 2007
    Ummm.....be careful? :D
    Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited December 2007
    I would run 12/3 on a run less than 50 feet. Then you would have 2 circuits. If you are going to do it you might as well get the extra circuit for roughly $50 more.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Lowell_M
    Lowell_M Posts: 1,660
    edited December 2007
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I would run 12/3 on a run less than 50 feet. Then you would have 2 circuits. If you are going to do it you might as well get the extra circuit for roughly $50 more.

    There's the good advice! Run an extra circuit or two so that you have plenty of current available!!
    HT
    RTi70 mains
    CSi30 center
    RTi28 Rears
    Velodyne CHT-12
    H/K AVR-247
    ADCOM GFA-7000
    Samsung PN58B860
    Playstation 3

    2-Channel
    Polk Audio LSi15's
    Rotel RCD-1072
    Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
    ADCOM GFA-555
    Signal Cable Analog II IC's
    Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
  • thuchien
    thuchien Posts: 103
    edited December 2007
    The reason I do it because now I have 2 infinity P-FR with build in subwoofer. I have amp + sub + rear project 60" TV + 2 new speaker with build in sub. All of them come from one power conditioner and I feel they don't get enough juice.
    Sony 60" XBR2
    PIONEER SC 05
    Samsung BD-UP 5000

    7.1 SETUP
    Infinity P-FR with 12" build in sub
    Infinity P-CC
    4 Infinity P QPS
    Kef sub 4000

    pure av PF60
    3 cobalt speaker cables
  • obieone
    obieone Posts: 5,077
    edited December 2007
    First I believe some questions are in order.
    1. What state do you live in?
    2. Are you an electrician?
    3. Why are you using weather proof wire?-Don't get me wrong. Exceeding the NEC is a good thing, but may be unneccesary.
    I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE!
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    edited December 2007
    Again, if you are unsure about any of what you are doing, call an electrician.

    Good luck getting 10 guage wire around the screws on the receptacle (unless it's stranded)

    Go with Bens' reco of 12/3 instead... you can use 20 (or 15) amp breakers that way.

    Also, another important thing to keep in mind; if you use three conductor wire (red,

    black, white, and bare ground) for two circuits, you MUST make sure you are using both

    hot feeds coming in to your main panel! This means you must have 220v between black

    and red (test them). Never use a "twin" breaker in this instance (ie. two breakers in the

    space of one). Use a double-pole with common trip, or two single breakers, one on top of

    the other.

    If you don't do this, you run the risk of drawing current on both red and black, and thereby

    seriously risk overloading the neutral (white), as it will now be carrying twice as much

    current as it would if only one circuit was used.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • obieone
    obieone Posts: 5,077
    edited December 2007
    "220, 221... whatever it takes"- Michael Keaton, 'Mr. Mom'
    Sorry, I couldn't resist! LOL

    But seriously, also check what BRAND of breakers are in your panel-G.E., Square D- or you'll be in for a hellofa wrestling match-"F**king things won't go in dammit?!"
    I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE!
  • thuchien
    thuchien Posts: 103
    edited December 2007
    I spend a couple hours on Saturday. I used solid wire that I have left since I did my basement 2 years ago. I bought 2 isolate ground receptacle (red color) at Menards $10 each, 2 breakers $6 each. I used this receptacle before to stop boom noise from my subwoofer, before every thing I turned on/off light my subwoofer made boom noise since they shared same power line. The boom noise went away after new receptacle.

    Now I plug 2 sub from speakers to one receptacle and other for pure av PF60 + subwoofer.

    With $30 and couple hours I am happen with the result, the bass sound tighter and I don’t feel like not thing hold them back as I did before.
    Sony 60" XBR2
    PIONEER SC 05
    Samsung BD-UP 5000

    7.1 SETUP
    Infinity P-FR with 12" build in sub
    Infinity P-CC
    4 Infinity P QPS
    Kef sub 4000

    pure av PF60
    3 cobalt speaker cables
  • vonnie123
    vonnie123 Posts: 326
    edited December 2007
    A dedicated breaker will reduce noise from items on the shared circuit. A power conditioner would be more specific and better isolate equipment attached to it; your equipment can also generate noise. If you are running lots of high current equipment and need the extra juice, go for it, but be careful around that breaker box.

    And I see you have a PF 60 which is a great conditioner at the price. good luck and success with your project.
    [
  • thuchien
    thuchien Posts: 103
    edited December 2007
    After the hook up, I realize 3 of sub don't have any protection since it got hook up directly to out let.
    Sony 60" XBR2
    PIONEER SC 05
    Samsung BD-UP 5000

    7.1 SETUP
    Infinity P-FR with 12" build in sub
    Infinity P-CC
    4 Infinity P QPS
    Kef sub 4000

    pure av PF60
    3 cobalt speaker cables