Replacing Windows in the Home

Early B.

Anyone on this board know about replacing windows?

I need to replace all of the windows in my house. The windows are 27 years old, single pane, and cheap, as far as I can tell. During the winter, you can feel the cold air coming right through them, and if you place your hand on the window, you'll damn near get frostbite. It's so bad that I have plastic covering some of them for the winter (and I live in Georgia!). Sometimes it's literally colder in my house than it is outside, and I believe most of the problem can be alleviated by replacing the windows.

OK, now of course, I don't want to contact a window installer because they'll charge outrageous prices. My father can install them, so I just need a place to buy them. Got a few questions:

1. What kind of window features should I look for?

2. How much should I spend for a decent quality 31" x 52 3/4" window?

3. Where is the best place to buy windows? I looked around at Home Depot, but I'm not sure if they provide the best deals.

4. Seems like I can easily measure my own windows. I think they are a "standard" size. Or is it necessary to get a "professional" to take exact measurements of all of the windows?

Thanks.

obieone

I worked with a guy who went through this. He said the best thing to do is get window co. bids per window. they'll designate & measure each window, and as you can afford them, order them. According to my coworker, he could do two windows in a day installing them himself. You may pay more per window, but the labor of them going in the 1st time is worth it-according to him.
As far as features, you'll have to discuss with the sales rep.what you can & can't afford.
I'm sure he'll recommend top shelf, but just explain what your budgetary limits are.
If he persists, show him the door!
Stay away from Lowes & HD- I've heard nothing but horror stories about their home installs.

treitz3

Damn Brad, my suggestion turned into a project like this? I need to learn to keep my mouth shut! :eek:

Are the window insulators [the one's you have installed already] making it more comfortable for ya'? I'm putting the insulators back up this weekend because it's cold as hell downstairs again [we took them off this spring] even though the thermostat says 75 degrees....and like I said, we have "energy efficient" windows. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: [yeah, right]

I'll see what info. I can pull up for you on the window front.

markmarc

Brad:
I'm in the same boat, single pane with storm windows, total crap. I've talked to about a dozen installers, general contractors, and other homeowners. The standard consensus:

Buy the middle grade, unless you're wealthy and live in a ritzy neighborhood. The bottom grade that is sold off the shelf isn't worth the investment as the quality is mediocre. The top grade is nice but you won't benefit financially from the difference.

Definitely get a couple of professional estimates with proper measurements listed. Two reasons: One, if they do install it and screw it up they take any financial hit for the error. Second, if you decide to DIY, then you have one less worry.

Another thing to keep in mind is that in many cases professional building suppliers (not Home Depot or Lowes) will beat those guys hands down on price. I found that out during our kitchen remodel, we saved about 4K between cabinet costs and install by using a local outfit

As far as brands go, that is really a regional thing. Of the national brands I've been impressed by Millgard, Jeld Wenn, Anderson, and Penguin.

Let's stay in touch on this. I have my cousin to help me and he explained how to do it with wood siding and it doesn't sound to be nearly as difficult as with brick homes.

Early B.

treitz3 wrote: »

Damn Brad, my suggestion turned into a project like this? I need to learn to keep my mouth shut! :eek:

Nah. My pops is coming to visit and he likes to keep busy while he's here. He loves doing this kind of stuff, so I figured it's either the windows or starting a complete basement renovation project. The windows are a bigger priority 'cause we don't really need a renovated basement.

BTW -- the window insulators work great. They just look bad and they cover the shades.

So if I call a couple of these window companies to get estimates and they measure my windows, do they typically provide the potential customer with copies of their measurements?

ohskigod

Just got done putting windows (as well as doors) in my house. luckily, I have a very good friend that is a carpenter who did the install for me. I just gave him money and told him to "make it happen"

I know he got me damn good windows. double pane, argon gas filled. difference in terms of holding in the heat is night and day. pricey, but worth every penny. they look better, work better, hold heat, easy to use.

price hunt and get the most for your money, but don't be cheap either. its your house, and you want them to last awhile.

obieone

Don't know. You can ask for that info to be included in the quote?!
Also, reference your states attorney general or consumer affairs office for any negative reports. Before you go signing ANY contracts be sure to get legal references-i.e. is the co. involved in any litigation or has a history of it.
I'm not trying to scare ya, but I hate seeing people-even complete strangers- get burned.

treitz3

Early B. wrote: »

BTW -- the window insulators work great. They just look bad and they cover the shades.

:eek: I install mine behind the shades around the frame of the window. After I blow dry them, nobody can tell that they are even there. It's a pain to remove the shades/blind and all that jazz, but the end result makes it to where unless you knew that they were installed, you'd never know that they were there.

Also, I have worked on many a project to where other companies have installed new windows on some of the rehab units and even though I have never had a "hands on" with the install, my observations tell me it's not as hard as one might think. It goes fairly quickly too.

BAD ASP

If your windows don't need custom millwork then home depot is not a bad place to start. They will provide Andersens, Pellas as well as a number of contractor grade that may have different brand names depending on where you live (State).They will come out and measure and give you a price for installation as well. You may think about this... most of the window manufacturers will make replacement windows that will fit within the old window framing. What this means is that they will remove the old windows, sashes and weights, insulate the cavity and install the new windows inside of the old window space. This eliminates the need for interior millwork and the exterior is aluminum or plastic with color choices to compliment your existing finishes. My wife and I own an old victorian and we had a bad fire which ruined 14 double hungs. We chose this method to avoid the complicated job of doing the new millwork and we have been quite satisfied with the look and performance which is far superior to the old but beatiful windows.

George Grand

Over the years every window in this house has been replaced with an Andersen and I couldn't be happier/warmer/cooler.

Early B.

markmarc wrote: »

Brad:
I'm in the same boat, single pane with storm windows, total crap. I've talked to about a dozen installers, general contractors, and other homeowners. The standard consensus:

Buy the middle grade,...

OK, now what is the approximate price range for middle grade windows?

BTW -- my wife wants windows with slats -- I hate them, but that's a fight I'm gonna lose.

hoosier21

Early B. wrote: »

OK, now what is the approximate price range for middle grade windows?

BTW -- my wife wants windows with slats -- I hate them, but that's a fight I'm gonna lose.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100079196&N=10000003+90401+502999&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125

170 plus whatever you mean by slats

treitz3

"7/8 In. LoE² Insulated Glass - Save Up To 35% On Energy Bills"

When this is listed, as in HD's ad, what is this compared to? I ask, because as I had mentioned when we purchased our pad, the windows had a sticker that said the same thing ["energy efficient"...save 35%] and I have the absolute worst seal/efficiency of any window I have ever had. You can feel the cold just walking by. :mad: Opposite in the summer. :eek:

SKsolutions

I've used most every window out there, and also had them built to order locally on many occasions. The local replacement builder is most often the cheapest, but usually not the best buy in terms of build quality. The windows often start out right, but get real loose two years down the road. I'd use them for a condo conversion, or if I knew I was selling and needed the update to sell. If I were buying for a home that I lived in, and intended to stay there for more than 3 years, I'd buy the step up models from a national company like Anderson or similar. I would not buy them from Home Desperate. They get the scraps and questionables as they pay the least for everything they stock. Hit or miss. I'd hate to miss on such an important item.

Measuring is half the work of the installation. If you are off with your measurements, the sashes won't seal right. Always err on the side of going smaller, as you can shim and they will have an expansion header at the top. At some point in time, I stopped allowing anybody measure windows on any of my projects. If you order a window to spec and it doesn't fit, you are often stuck with it. I've ordered over 100 windows at a time without mistake. If you are not familiar with the process, I'd use a company rep at no cost to come and take the measurements, and complete the order. He would get paid through the company, and everyone is happy and protected. You can save money by doing the install, and shopping price/quality on the product.

Most quotes will have sizes on them, but they may be tip-to-tip measurements, or cutdown measurements, and you won't really know which. I'd not trust it.


If you have time, and someone that's handy, have them put them in. It's easy after the first one. You can check online for some instructions that match your window type.
When the rep comes out to give you a quote, ask him if there is anything unique about your windows. . . or just post a picture here.

Maurice

I need to get this done as well. But can windows be replaced without any stucco damage. I'm curious because I just painted my house 2 years ago.

Early B.

Here's a pic of one of my windows with slats:

Early B.

Oops. Here's a larger size...

schwarcw

The cheapest will be to get some quality vinyl windows from a local supplier/installer. Workmanship and Warranty mean everything. Check the Better Business Bureau and look for references from people in your area. Wood windows are great but will require some maintenance. Make sure to get e-glass. Some local codes require tempered glass if your window is less than 18" from the floor.

Stay away from the "Renewal by Anderson". They are way over priced. Too many middle men have to be paid, the manufacturer, dealer, saleman and installer. That's why locally manufactured windows installed by the manufacturer, or by a local contractor is the best deal. Get bids and ask them to break down how much for materials and how much for labor. If they won't tell you, tell them to move on. Get the details on cleanup, plaster repair, finish repair, vacuuming the dust, filling nail dents, etc. Some installers have the attitude this work is on the homeowner, Make sure you write all the work you want done into the contract. You'd be suprised how many window installers won't even clean the windows after they are done. Which I think is ****. Write it into the contract.

When you go and pick up a new car, it's washed and cleaned insn't it? So if you spend $10 - $20K on windows, don't you think they should be cleaned, plaster repaired, old windows hauled away?

schwarcw

BTW, I bought Pella, not the cheapest, but the best option for what I wanted.

Carl

SKsolutions

What was that, . . a toe-nail. I opened it with Paint to try to enlarge before see the larger one

Pella makes good stuff, has a good name, and as such, can be pricey at most levels. Even their lower end stuff is pretty good, but I'd shop around. Even if a manufacturer is willing to guarantee a window, most won't pay for replacement labor, and you'd need to have it installed by their guys. Not all, but most. Jeld Wen is another higher end solid product, but again, pricey. I've had differing experience with all the national brands, and they seem to fluctuate in build quality even at the same price. I was surprised by Andersons quality of late, and they are relatively cheap. I was recently in a newer construction project that I finished 4 years ago, with Andersons, and they are as tight as the day they were installed. The result couldn't be said with the same level Harvey.

Early,
It's appears to be an easy remove and replace job. By the window type, trim and depth dimensions, I'd guess its 2x4 stick framed with a build of around 1960 (the style of trim). No matter. The windows that you have are the ones that vinyl replacements were made to replace. The thickness/depth is the same, so you shouldn't even have to cut down the window stops (inside side pieces of trim) or header stop (inside top trim). I would bet that after the second window, with two people, you'd have them in an out in less than an hour and a half each, and that's if you're drinking beer and whittling at the same time.

Those slats are actually part of the frame of the sash, and the glass is glazed into each bed separately. You can count how many little squares are made by the intersecting frame, and it's then a (x) lighted window. To match what you have now, you will need a 12 light, double hung, Low E, vinyl replacement window with either half (recommended) screen, or full screen. Half is nice because you can actually pass stuff outside, by sliding it up, down as needed. Newer lighted windows are generally two pieces of glass with decorative non -integrated 'slats' that mount to the sash on the outside. You can also get wood interior, and vinyl exterior.

If you have a typical wood, vinyl, aluminum exterior, I wouldn't anticipate any outside repairs other than removing the old storms, but I can see the outside from here. You may have to paint and caulk some of the exterior trim to hide any unpainted wood that is left exposed, but it would be minimal if needed.

It's an inside job too. You take them out from the inside, so you don't need ladders and such.

Bottom line, easy job. First timer is fine on those, no problems.

Early B.

Thanks, SK.

Yeah, I think it'll be an easy job for my pops. He's a contractor, so no problem there. The house was built in 1980. The front exterior is brick, and the remainder is the fake wood stuff (not sure what it's called), although I'm impressed by its durability. I was thinking of doing the upstairs room first because we'll save more money on heating those rooms than the ones downstairs.