I removed my polyswitches...

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Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2009
    Lasareath wrote: »
    That's going to be a nice winter project for. I may also do the posts, dynamat and moretite
    That shouldn't take more than a few hours.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • restanim
    restanim Posts: 227
    edited October 2009
    If you remove the poly switch, do you have to jumper across the trace to allow the tweeters to work?

    Mike
    polkaudio

    Currently Own:
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    SDA-CRS+ Aug/2011 to present
    RTA-11T Black, Dec/2013 to present

    Previously Owned:
    SDA-SRS 2.3 May/1990 to June/1991
    SRS 1.2TL June/1991 to May/1995
    SDA-1C Aug/2005 to Dec/2011
    SRS 1.2TL Sept/2009 to Sept/2015
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited October 2009
    yes or put a .5ohm 12 watt mills resistor in place.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited October 2009
    I think that Jerry (jerryj12) has extensive first hand experience with SDA 1C's,, jumpers,,poly's,,resistors and a certain Cary 120S,, maybe he'll chime in.;),,But the most "recent" answer is to remove the polyswitch and replace it with a .5 ohm resistor.YMMV.:)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2009
    You guys dug up my old thread!

    Update: I did install thermal switches for the fans and it worked like a charm kicking on only when the amp got really warm. On the other hand, I don't use that amp any more because the SQ and hum was really starting to bother me, but good times.

    Keep on with your polyswitches. :D
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    edited October 2009
    ShinAce wrote: »
    Resistor is a good idea since polyswitches aren't exactly 0.0 ohms. By replacing with a resistor, the rest of the crossover should perform to its max. This assumes the resistance of the polyswitch was accounted for by Polk when designing the crossover network. ....

    All the component ESRs, including the polyswitches and even the internal wiring resistance was considered in the voicing of the speakers.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601