wiring advice?

Cybernetik

Here's what I've got so far: Blaupunkt San Jose CD/MP3 Receiver, Polk dX 3065 6.5" component set, (2) Polk dX 12" 4ohm subs, Lanzar Optidrive 100.2 2ch. amp, and Lanzar Optidrive 1000.1D mono class D amp. Now, the receiver has three 4volt preamp outputs:front, rear, sub. But the manual for the 1000.1D says to run the front and rear signals to the four inputs on the amp.???
The manual also says to connect the line outputs of the first amp to the inputs of the second????? Any advice would help me a bunch. Thanks

TrappedUnder Ice

ONe..you dont have to connect the outputs of the one amp to the next...You can...but you dont have too....and in your case...I would not!

next.. that amp is wack....I can see what its saying. Run all the all the ouputs ( not sub out) to the amp..then run the other amp off the mono amp... why would any one do this..unless they had no sub output...wich you do.

If the amp wants 4 rca inputs..just run the sub line..and put 2 y's at the end...and run the other amp of the front rca line

Sounds wierd that an amp would ask otherwise...but again..I'm not familiar with Lanzar at all...:rolleyes:

Cybernetik

Thanks TrappedUnderIce.
Are high quality Y-connectors available? I don't want to use good RCA's and trash the signal right before going into the amp. One more question: I got a Phoenix Gold 4 gauge amp wiring kit for the 1000.1D and it came with 16 gauge speaker wire. Isn't that a little thin?

PoweredByDodge

*cracks knuckles* .... wassabi?


re- speaker wire: use 12 gauge on your subwoofers, use 16 or 15 (yes monster cable makes a 15 gauge polyester core wire that is quite nice and durable) on your highs.

re- pre amp rca's: you should run your front rca's to your 2 channel amp for highs. run your subwoofer output to your subwoofer amp (use y connectors as stated in the previous post). leave the rear output taped off until you decide to go with either rears or with more speakers up front (like midbass drivers) off another amp (or a 4 channel for it all).


as far as y connectors go -- you will not ruin the signal with "**** ones" -- unless you've got 4 lines of 0 gauge wire running right over that small 3 inch long y connector, you wont get any line noise ... i used to run streetwires zero noise 5.0 patch cables that cost me 100 dollars EACH and then broke them off at the amp with 1 dollar radio shack RCA splitters. If you're really worried about it -- honestly... radioshack has a "gold series" twisted pair (similar in style to respectable patch cables for car audio) Y connector that has a female input and two male outs ... this would be perfect for the application you have -- and it costs about 12.50 -- a lot better than the 30 dollar streetwires was charging for one "3.5 series" y splitter. I'm still running the Y-outs to my 81000d's off 1 dollar radioshacks and i've got almost no line noise -- the little i have is actualy caused by the 4 lines of 0 gauge ... LOL

be careful with those subs off that amp --- i dont know hte power rating, but if it is 1000 x 1 at 2 ohms... then your two subs in parallel = 2 ohms... and they cannot take 500 watts each. I had four polk dx 12 subwoofers, and I found that they cannot take more than 325 or so cleanly. They will accept 400 or so but if its a good rap beat that's hitting 25 - 40 hertz hard, they start to flap / break up. so keep the gain at a reasonable point and be sure to BREAK THE SUBWOOFERS IN! -- i think one of hte reasons mine went bad on was because i did not break them in properly -- play them "soft" for a good week or two (20-40 hours playing time) -- give em some disco / techno stuff at low to medium volumes and you should be allright.

as far as those 3065's --- i've got those running up front in my truck still... i absolutely love them... 100.2 is what? 50 x 2 at 2 ohms and 25 x 2 at 4?? i've found that a good power to push to them ( as well as the other 3 sets of polk dx components i've owned ) is about 75 - 125 watts... under 75 and u dont get enough definition out of them -- they're not very sensitive, but the lack of sensitivity gives them greater clarity at high volumes and a superb "body" of sound. i've been driving about 140+ into mine lately ,and had previosly put almost 200 on them, and i think i'm beating the crap out of them... my tweeters are starting to go (if they haven't gone already), and i just blew one of my woofers -- it still "works" but it sounds like terd. I think the 6 months with near 200 really was overkill on them.

good luck dude you've got some nice speakers -- the dx's are tight stuff, have fun

PoweredByDodge

woops forgot one thing...

the power wire to your amp .. the 4 gauge kit and all---

if your'e going to run that 1000.1 with the gain pulled back a little so you're only pushing lets say 700 watts and the other amp is only pushing 50 x 2 at 4 ohms, then you should be ok with 4 gauge --- HOWEVER.. if you decide to add more subs, or if you decide to crank the amp up to the full 1000 watts, then I would suggest you get a 2 gauge power / ground line. You can't run much more than 900 watts off of a 4 gauge line and expect to get "peak performance"... this is of course a debatable thing, but i think a lotta ppl will agree with me if you juice that amp and start drawing more than 80 ampheres of current from it, and the other one is pulling 15 or 20 or so, then its best that you have a 2 gague line.

Cybernetik

Thanks PoweredByDodge. Both amps are going to be run at 2ohms; so 350 watts to each 12" and 90 watts to each component side. Thanks alot for the tips guys. I have access to a nice shop so I'm doing my own custom install in my '99 Honda Prelude Type SH inlcuding plexiglass, neon, vinyl, 7" in-dash monitor, and a PSOne modded to play ripped DVDs in VCD format. I'm taking pics and will post in the installs section when its done. Here are a couple starter pics.

Cybernetik

Here's my baby

PoweredByDodge

dude, nice nice nice car -- i love it... i like the asthetics of the amps too..

only question i have for you is how are u doing to run your amp for highs at 2 ohms? the dx components are 4 ohms .. if u parallel them then yes that is 2 ohms but then you will only have mono sound (like you'll only get "left" sound out of both your right and left speaker)...

if there is any way to drop the ohm load on those components that i dont know about, let me know, cuz i could put that too good future use in my other truck.

Cybernetik

Good call man. I forgot that wiring parallel will make it mono. I guess I'll have to keep it at 4 ohms pushing 50 watts to each side. Any ideas on connecting the audio lines from my PSOne console to the rest of the system? Do you have any pics of your truck, PoweredByDodge?

PoweredByDodge

re - playstation audio...

Well usualy people will buy a head unit that has "auxilliary" RCA inputs... however, if u dont have those (which not many heads do), you can prbably use an RF modulator --- its what they use to hook up external cd changers... it wires into your antenna wire and then you just turn your radio to like a certain FM station... when you're on that station you will pick up the Playstation audio. most local install shops have probably done a playstation so u should be able to run that idea by them...

re - pics of my truck

coming soon actually, i've got an old set of the old system, but the new ones are coming soon once i get a better camera... currently running:

head - alpine 7864

highs -
polk DX 3065's
dx 6x9's

amps on highs:
Two JBL GTS 180x1's
(one on each component pair: 140++ watts per speaker)
One JBL GTQ 190x2
(on 6x9's: 95 watts per speaker).

Subwoofers:
Two Image Dynamics IDMax 12" transducers

Sub amps:
Two mtx 81000d's doing about 1200 to each sub.

patch cables:
streetwires zero noise 5.0

power cable:
fosgate 4,000 strand 0 gauge
streetwires 2 gauge

dual energizer 900 CCA batteries

and three lightning audio 1 farad caps (soon to be five and / or an alumapro cap).

still needs work though.

TrappedUnder Ice

Iknow that Blaupunkt has a unit for Monitors/av that will probably attatch to your HU>>.not sure what models etc..... but I was at a store other day..and they had all Blaupunkt..and had one on the board that would connect about 5 external devices and run to the hu..not a fm modulator either! think it was lik 199-299.

Hope that helps...thats what you would need for your monitors/ps etc....

Peace and Happy Hunting:cool:

[Deleted User]

Your headunit has an adapter available for it. This will give you an AUX input, but it only has a 1/8 inch phone plug on it. You would have to get an adapter from Radio Shack or splice some RCA heads on.HERE

Cybernetik

Went to RadioShack today and found an adapter plus a coupler to connect the Blaupunkt aux input to the PSOne audio outputs. Also found the Gold Series Y adapters for the mono amp. So I'm ordering the auxilary input adapter tonight. $13 bucks is great! You guys are probably getting sick of me but I've got two more questions if anyone could help. First, the AC Adapter that comes with the PSOne has an output of DC 7.5V (diagram of solid line over dashed line) 2.0A. Can I buy a DC voltage regulator of some kind to convert a 12V power wire to 7.5V and then put the right adapter plug on the end that goes into the PSOne? Second, my amps, capacitor and a neon tube are going to be under a false floor with a plexiglass window in the trunk. Should I use a squirrel cage type exhaust fan or a fan that blows on the components? Thanks, Justin
P.S. Check out the pic I took of this BMW trunk at Hot Import Nights in Orlando. Sweeeeet.

PoweredByDodge

bah humbug on audio-blah-bahn..lol.

re- powering the PS2

well... in theory i would just use proper resistors to burn off the right amount of voltage, ut that would be a pain and involve figuring out the input resistance of the PS...

your best bet would be to go back to radio shack and get a "universal" car adapter -- they plug in the cigarette lighter and will convert it over to like 3, 5, 7, 9 or whatever volts.... just find one that is either 7, 7.5, or 8 and you should be ok... if you dont want the "ugly" look of the thing sittin in your cigarette lighter.. just solder some 14 gauge wire onto the positive / negative "nubbies" on the nose of the connector plug and then wrap that up good in tape, wire the 14 gauge to your power (batt or fuse box or whatever) and then tuck the adaptor away somewhere hidden.