Important question about dedicated 20amp circuits...

Grimster74
Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
As many of you know, I've been having a really hard time locating my electrical hum in my room. Well, think I've narrowed it down but I need some help. The power going to my projector is on the same circuit as my recessed lighting which are on Lutron dimmers. Well, I have dual 20 amp receptacles in my room, one on the right side of the room, one on the left. The 20 amp on the right is powering all the gear and the only thing the one on the left is powering is my SVS. I can easily get to the 20 amp on the left side of the room with a little work so my question is, should I run the power off my projector to the 20 amp?

If so, do I have to replace the 20 amp receptacle with a standand 15 amp receptacle or can I just leave the 20 amp receptacle in place and put a standard 15 amp receptacle at the projector? When I run an extension cord from the projector to the dedicated 20 amp on the left, my hum goes away even with the lights on. As you can tell, I know nothing about electrical wiring so before I do this, I need your help. Thanks in advance.
Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
Post edited by Grimster74 on

Comments

  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    Grimster74 wrote: »
    As many of you know, I've been having a really hard time locating my electrical hum in my room. Well, think I've narrowed it down but I need some help. The power going to my projector is on the same circuit as my recessed lighting which are on Lutron dimmers. Well, I have dual 20 amp receptacles in my room, one on the right side of the room, one on the left. The 20 amp on the right is powering all the gear and the only thing the one on the left is powering is my SVS. I can easily get to the 20 amp on the left side of the room with a little work so my question is, should I run the power off my projector to the 20 amp?

    If so, do I have to replace the 20 amp receptacle with a standand 15 amp receptacle or can I just leave the 20 amp receptacle in place and put a standard 15 amp receptacle at the projector? When I run an extension cord from the projector to the dedicated 20 amp on the left, my hum goes away even with the lights on. As you can tell, I know nothing about electrical wiring so before I do this, I need your help. Thanks in advance.

    i am an electrician and the only thing i can say is that 20 amp receptacles and 15 amp receptacles is only a marketing thing. the ONLY place where we sometimes use 20 amp receptacles is commercial buildings
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
    edited November 2007
    So here is my next question, at the panel box I have a 20 amp breaker on the 20 amp receptacle. Can I tap off of that 20 amp receptacle and go down to a 15 amp receptacle at the projector or should I put a 20 amp receptacle at the projector also? Or do I swap out the breaker at the box with a 15 amp and replace all the receptacles with 15 amp receptacles?
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,793
    edited November 2007
    kolyan2k wrote: »
    i am an electrician and the only thing i can say is that 20 amp receptacles and 15 amp receptacles is only a marketing thing. the ONLY place where we sometimes use 20 amp receptacles is commercial buildings

    He's right, the receptacles are pretty much the same. If you can do it, run a dedecated 20A circuit to the audio setup and get a good line conditioner. It's not the devices that are the problem, it's what's called a ground loop. Any number of things could be putting noise on the circuit. Dimmers flourescent lighting etc. Try dedicated and see if that helps.
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
    edited November 2007
    lightman1 wrote: »
    He's right, the receptacles are pretty much the same. If you can do it, run a dedecated 20A circuit to the audio setup and get a good line conditioner. It's not the devices that are the problem, it's what's called a ground loop. Any number of things could be putting noise on the circuit. Dimmers flourescent lighting etc. Try dedicated and see if that helps.

    If you didn't notice, I already have a dedicated 20 amp on all the gear with the Monster HTS 5100 plugged into that receptacle. What I'm trying to figure out is if I can tap into the other dedicated 20 amp I have to power the projector which is on the same circuit as the recessed lights that are on Lutron light dimmers? If I run an extension cord from the projector over to the dedicated 20 amp receptacle I want to tap into, the humm goes away.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    Grimster74 wrote: »
    So here is my next question, at the panel box I have a 20 amp breaker on the 20 amp receptacle. Can I tap off of that 20 amp receptacle and go down to a 15 amp receptacle at the projector or should I put a 20 amp receptacle at the projector also? Or do I swap out the breaker at the box with a 15 amp and replace all the receptacles with 15 amp receptacles?

    look at it this way: 15 amp receptacle and 20 amp receptacle is the SAME thing. so no matter what breaker you have at the panel, receptacles do NOT need to be changed.
  • woofiepaws
    woofiepaws Posts: 215
    edited November 2007
    I think he wants to run wire from one of his existing 20 amp receptacle boxes over to his projector. Is this possible?
  • vonnie123
    vonnie123 Posts: 326
    edited November 2007
    For code purposes, as well as insurance, I'd make sure I had the right receptacle matched to the proper breaker. If you had a fire, and a 20 amp breaker, but only had 15 amp wire (14ga) and/or a 15a receptacle, insurance might blame the fire on homeowner negligence due to the non-code install.
    [
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
    edited November 2007
    Would it be okay to keep a 20 amp breaker in the sub box and run dual 15 amp receptacles off of that or should I replace the breaker with a 15 amp breaker also?
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited November 2007
    woofiepaws wrote: »
    I think he wants to run wire from one of his existing 20 amp receptacle boxes over to his projector. Is this possible?



    This will work also but now is projector is not protected by the Monster HTS5100, because the power is tapped before it.

    I run a large UPS to protect myself and strongly believe in the one neutral being feed to all equipment. This way there's no way a ground loop could get in like that and all equipment is protected by the UPS, during a lightening storm.

    I had a similar problem before in another tread where I wanted to bring power to plasma here http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56465

    A product was shown to me that will fit my needs and ours and this way our projector would be protected by the HTS.

    http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/MIW-POWERKIT-PRO.aspx#tab_images

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited November 2007
    Russ,

    You can tap into the circuit on the left side of your room and run to your projector. The type of receptacle used is irrelevant. The 20 amp receptacle is really only needed when an appliance has that odd vertical/horizontal 90 degree plug that requires the matching receptacle. This simply keeps people from using this in a 15 amp plugin.

    The important part and reason for use of a 20 amp circuit is adequate breaker and wire size, the plugs aren't stronger, just configured differently.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    vonnie123 wrote: »
    For code purposes, as well as insurance, I'd make sure I had the right receptacle matched to the proper breaker. If you had a fire, and a 20 amp breaker, but only had 15 amp wire (14ga) and/or a 15a receptacle, insurance might blame the fire on homeowner negligence due to the non-code install.

    Sorry but this is BS
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited November 2007
    You can run a 15 amp receptacle. But if you are in doubt, why all the qestions? Around here, 20 amp receptacles are $2.50 each, so if you are worried, just spend the $5.

    I prefer the 20 amp units, because they are built better, and tend to hold the plug much tighter.
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    Russ,

    You can tap into the circuit on the left side of your room and run to your projector. The type of receptacle used is irrelevant. The 20 amp receptacle is really only needed when an appliance has that odd vertical/horizontal 90 degree plug that requires the matching receptacle. This simply keeps people from using this in a 15 amp plugin.

    The important part and reason for use of a 20 amp circuit is adequate breaker and wire size, the plugs aren't stronger, just configured differently.

    Agree. you can do that. use 20 amp breaker, run #12/2 cable (usually its yellow in Home Depot), and its irrelevant what kind of receptacle you use. This will be done 100% by electrical code
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited November 2007
    kolyan2k wrote: »
    Agree. you can do that. use 20 amp breaker, run #12/2 cable (usually its yellow in Home Depot), and its irrelevant what kind of receptacle you use. This will be done 100% by electrical code


    Right again, the code "no-no" is putting 20 amp receptacles on 14 ga. wiring and 15 amp breakers, allowing someone to plug an appliance with the funky plug in that draws more than the wire/breaker can handle.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
    edited November 2007
    So, just call me stupid, I have a 20 amp breaker in the panel and 12/2 (yellow) wire running to the 20 amp receptacle. Do I continue running 12/2 to the projector from the existing 20 amp and then install another 20 amp receptacle at the projector or can I install a 15 amp breaker, replace the 20 amp receptacles with 15 amp receptacles and let it ride?
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
  • vonnie123
    vonnie123 Posts: 326
    edited November 2007
    kolyan2k wrote: »
    Sorry but this is BS

    Actually, I had this dilemna where I was changing some receptacles, and was following the instructions of the wiring handbook I had. Since I am not an electrician, I followed the expert advice in the book. Sorry you saw it as irrelevant.
    [
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited November 2007
    Grimster74 wrote: »
    So, just call me stupid, I have a 20 amp breaker in the panel and 12/2 (yellow) wire running to the 20 amp receptacle. Do I continue running 12/2 to the projector from the existing 20 amp and then install another 20 amp receptacle at the projector or can I install a 15 amp breaker, replace the 20 amp receptacles with 15 amp receptacles and let it ride?

    Yes, run 12/2 to the new box, use either a 15 or 20 amp outlet. No need to change the other outlet, or the breaker.

    My whole house is wired 12/2, 20 amp breakers, and 15 amp outlets. Although I do use 20 amp outlets in the garage. I know it's up to code, I just passed inspection last December.

    Like I said, if you are worried, just buy a 20 amp outlet for $2.50, and be done with it. You can run more than 1 outlet off a breaker you know.
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    vonnie123 wrote: »
    Actually, I had this dilemna where I was changing some receptacles, and was following the instructions of the wiring handbook I had. Since I am not an electrician, I followed the expert advice in the book. Sorry you saw it as irrelevant.

    there was a very nice bumper sticker that i saw once: "Wiring is not a hobby, hire professional electrician"


    all those handbooks are useless and teach you nothing useful.
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited November 2007
    kolyan2k wrote: »
    there was a very nice bumper sticker that i saw once: "Wiring is not a hobby, hire professional electrician"


    all those handbooks are useless and teach you nothing useful.

    Unless he didn't know how to wire in a new outlet. It would show him how to do it correctly and safely. At least every guide that I have seen.

    No offense, but for simple procedures like the one discussed here, an electrician is not needed. It's not rocket science.
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited November 2007
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    Unless he didn't know how to wire in a new outlet. It would show him how to do it correctly and safely. At least every guide that I have seen.

    No offense, but for simple procedures like the one discussed here, an electrician is not needed. It's not rocket science.

    you would think so.....I have seen many do-it-yourself jobs that are scary. from top of my head i can remember 2 jobs where we had to replace outlets in the house, and whoever replaced them previously did an extremely poor job (loose wires, ungrounded, incorrect polarity, wires are very short, boxes are falling out, outlets are not secure in place...etc)
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,576
    edited November 2007
    Well, my hum is now gone. I ended up running 12/2 wire from the dedicated receptacle to the projector and installed another 20 amp receptacle at the projector, just keeping it all at 20 amps. Thanks for all the help guys.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!