New To Car Audio - want to go with Polk

Drowsy09
Drowsy09 Posts: 28
edited November 2007 in Car Audio & Electronics
OK I need to install a whole system in my car. I have heard and seen nothing but good from Polk (so far) and I plan to go with this brand.

I need two 12"s subs.
Two 5.25" Doors
Two Tweeters
Headunit
And whatever amp/s to power this.

My questions -

If I get 2 MM2124 or MM2124DVC - which amp do I get? Will a Polk C500.1 Monoblock work for these 2 speakers? To much/little power? What is the difference with the DVC and which would work better with that amp if I was to get it?

What will I need to power 2 MOMO door speakers? Is a coaxial better/worse than the component system? (I see the big difference in price) Is component worth the extra?

Will a headunit alone power those doors?

What wiring will I need for the whole system?
Post edited by Drowsy09 on

Comments

  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited November 2007
    Drowsy09 wrote:
    If I get 2 MM2124 or MM2124DVC - which amp do I get? Will a Polk C500.1 Monoblock work for these 2 speakers? To much/little power?

    The 500.1 would work best with the MM2124 SVC's.
    What is the difference with the DVC and which would work better with that amp if I was to get it?

    The DVC's (dual voice coil) just have one more voice coil. This is simply to give you more options in wiring and amps. For a single mono amp youll want a 2 ohm mono load which would be a pair of SVC (single voice coil) subs.
    What will I need to power 2 MOMO door speakers? Is a coaxial better/worse than the component system? (I see the big difference in price) Is component worth the extra?

    The 400.4 would work for all 4 doors.
    Will a headunit alone power those doors?

    Not well. Head units are horrible power sources.
    What wiring will I need for the whole system?

    Just get a wiring kit from Streetwires, Stinger or another reputable brand that has at least 4 gauge wire and youll be set.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited November 2007
    Great choice to go with polk ull love them
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    So I would need two amp? And I am only going with 2 door speakers - unless you mean 2 doors and 2 tweeters.

    And I can buy the wiring in an entire kit?

    I am also confused on what wiring to buy. Would this one(the first one) http://www.streetwires.com/products/powerKits/4AWGkit.cfm

    be sufficient?

    Would it include everything i need?
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited November 2007
    Yes that would work. Youd still need to buy some RCA's tho. Get the Streetwires Zero Noise 2 series. Theyre the cheapest line theyve got but theyre all you need. Theyre very well made, have no noise and are cheap. Theyre what I use.

    You can get the MMC5250's and bi-amp them with the 400.4 Youd run the tweeters off the front channels and the mids off the rear.

    So a 500.1 and a 400.4 would be a pretty stout amp package for a set of MMC5250's and a pair of MM2124SVC's.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited November 2007
    www.knukonceptz.com

    Wont find a better deal on quality wire, period.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited November 2007
    What about a full SR setup? What amps and wires then?
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    exalted512 wrote: »
    www.knukonceptz.com

    Wont find a better deal on quality wire, period.
    -Cody

    Totally agree here. I have areas where 4ga power cables are running side by side with my RCA's and I have zero noise issues. All of my wiring is from these guys.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    What is the difference between the MMC5250 and the MMC525's? I see that they have a difference of $170! Will I still need the 400.4 for the just the 525's? (Money doesn't grow on trees hah)

    Also - which size fuse would be best?
  • black magic
    black magic Posts: 669
    edited November 2007
    for fuses, its simple math. you just add up the number of fuses on the amps you're using. for example, the c400 has 2 30 amp fuses. so if that was your only amp, youd get a 60amp fuse.

    MMC5250 is a component set whereas the 525 is just a coaxial. The main benefit of getting a component set is the external x-over adjustments and tweeter placement. if you're looking for tuning flexibility, and the chance for slightly better sq and higher power handling, get the component set.

    I have pair of the mmc525 and for the price, they sound great.
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    Well, the amp C500.1 is ordered and on its way along with 2 MM2124's!

    Next is the doors, tweeters, and whatever to power them.

    OK - I measured the the holes in the doors, and they are exactly 5inches in diameter. I see that Polk has the dB501 5inch door speakers. So I would be getting 2 of these. Also, there are 2 dash 3.5" speakers which need to be replaced. 2 of the db351's. So which amp would I need to power these? The C400.4? Or something smaller, or just run them off the head unit?

    I saved a bit of money on the deals so I can spend a little extra on whats left, so I will probably going all out with a head unit, possibly one with a flip up screen. And the speaker wire i will ordering the whole kit out of Streetwires. Good?

    Sorry for all the questions but with all this money and time invested I really want to get this right.
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    Definately do not use HU power, go with the amp.

    Streewires speaker cables are fine, but you can get a better deal with Knukonceptz. I actually still have both in my garage, and the Streetwire speaker cable does not seem as nice.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited November 2007
    What about if you have to use your head unit until you can afford an amp? Some of us (like me) are building a system 50 dollars at a time.
  • najahaja
    najahaja Posts: 32
    edited November 2007
    well, if you have to use the HU, then go for it. I think what 1996blackmax meant is that the HU will generally underpower the speakers, and not make them sound nearly as good as they could.

    But ye, if you cannot afford an amp, then use the HU. Just don't try and run a 12" off it :)
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    Exactly....If he has the money to do it now, why not do it right the first time. HU power is fine if that is all you have, but as a permanent way of running a nice system it is not the way to go. You do not get alot of power, and the power is not as clean as an outboard amplifier.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    I bought a Mobile Spec 4-gauge High Current Amplifier Install. Kit. A little expensive but the local shop had it in stock and I know the owner. So I will need a C400.4 to power the 2 db501's and the 2 db351's, correct?


    Again, thanks for being patient, as I know i am a dummy for this stuff.
  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited November 2007
    Don't worry Drowsy09. I am really dumb too. Just let them know you know nothing and are at the complete mercy of them and they're real good with you.

    And 1996blackmax I didn't mean running an entire system forever off just the deck, I simply was talking about just doing your stereo little by little - meaning getting your deck first and running your factory speakers off it. Then upgrading your speakers after that. THEN running an amp to them. Or at least that's how I'll be doing it. There'll be no way I'll be able to afford to get a HU, speakers and amp hooked up the same day.
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    I started the same way, so I know exactly what you are talking about ;).
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited November 2007
    Thanks man. I just didn't want you to think I was being a smart ****. ;)
  • najahaja
    najahaja Posts: 32
    edited November 2007
    the 3.5" will need little power to run them, so yes, the 400.4 would be more than enough to run your 2 sets of speakers IMHO.

    I reacon the HU would run those 3.5" 100% too if you had to run something off the HU
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    Yes, but then I would have to run the 5"off of something - but.....

    They sell kick panel doors speaker setups for my car and since i saved a ton of money on what I bought maybe i could go with a set of door panels and get another set of 5.25". Does more speakers distort the sound?
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    Thanks man. I just didn't want you to think I was being a smart ****. ;)


    No problem, I did not think that at all :).
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    Drowsy09 wrote: »
    Yes, but then I would have to run the 5"off of something - but.....

    They sell kick panel doors speaker setups for my car and since i saved a ton of money on what I bought maybe i could go with a set of door panels and get another set of 5.25". Does more speakers distort the sound?

    More speakers does not necessarily mean better sound. You will have the same sound arriving at your ears at all different times. Why not just go with only the kick panels and one set of speakers up front?
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    Well I definitely need to go with two 5" doors, as the holes were cut out by the previous owner. But like I am saying, with the money left over from what I saved(found good deals on the subs and amp) I was thinking on going with two more 5.25" and another set of tweeters, as I know you don't get the best quality or loudness from just a set of 3.5in's and 5in's.
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    I would try to make some 5 1/4" drivers fit in the doors and put the tweeter up higher then. My rear speakers had OEM mounts for 5 1/4" drivers. I ended up making my own mount out of MDF and now have 6 3/4" speakers back there.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • Drowsy09
    Drowsy09 Posts: 28
    edited November 2007
    I would like to, but the holes cut out are the biggest that would fit. Its going in a El Camino, and the last person to have this vehicle really butched everything up. I cant really explain, but the way the hole it on the lower door panel is the biggest you can get. i know i will have to make even more modification just the get the 5's in.
  • sophie
    sophie Posts: 511
    edited November 2007
    i would find a way to use the momo components instead of the db's you are planing on right now.
    Polk monitor 10B's and 5 jr's
    Adcom gfa 5500 and HK/240
    Adcom gtp 400
    Adcom gcp 600
    MusicHall MMF 2.1 TT
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited November 2007
    The DB's are for beginners meaning that if you have never had higher quality speakers you will think they sound excellent. On the other hand if you have heard the momo's and listen to the DB's you will see why everyone recommends the momo's over the DB's. There's really no comparsions between the two. The momo's do everything twice as good as the DB's for just 70 bucks more.