New 6502's are here, how do I tell positive from negative?

Face
Face Posts: 14,340
edited November 2007 in Vintage Speakers
I received my new MW6502's for my Monitor 7C's today. They don't have any markings for positive or negative. Is it the same as the originals, with the magnet down, left is positive, right is negative? The white wire is positive correct?
I had them hooked up already. The bass was weak, but then again, this room is terrible for bass. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't from a inversed woofer. Otherwise, they're a little on the bright side compared to what I'm used to(SL1000 tweet). What really took me back though was the imaging, I was really impressed!

Thanks in advance!
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Comments

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited November 2007
    Black is positive with Polk. Think AC currant like amps really are;)
    As for which is positive I should know this one like the back of my hand with the number of Polk MW's I have wired:o
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,964
    edited November 2007
    Assuming that's the midbass driver (?)... you can always test polarity with a battery (e.g., a C-cell) and a couple of wires/clipleads.

    Connect one wire from the "-" terminal of the battery (bottom) to one lug of the driver (this could require some contortionist skills). Connect the other wire to the other lug of the driver and then momentarily touch it to the "+" terminal (top button) of the battery. If the cone moves "out", you've got "+" to "+" and "-" to "-". If the cone moves "in", your "-" and "+" are reversed.

    I like to use a C or D cell (1.5 VDC). The 1.5 V won't cause much heat to build up in the voice coil of the driver. Nonetheless, don't leave the battery connected (i.e., don't leave the electromagnet you've made "turned on") any longer than necessary.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2007
    Thanks everyone. I did have one woofer out of phase.

    Bass is improved from before. For such small speakers, they have a surprising amount of bass. I was going to re-veneer them and give them to the old lady, I may have to keep them now. :D They obviously need to beak in before I make any final judgements, but what kind of improvement could I see going from the SL1000's to RDO 194's? I'm also considering new caps and resistors.

    Thanks again!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited November 2007
    Today was been a Polky day. :D Received new caps and resistors last night. Today I ordered the RD0-194's, and picked up ANOTHER pair of Monitor 7's. These have the Peerless tweeter though. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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